within narrower bounds our description of the other cities. It may be observed in the outset, that this kingdom is not divided into provinces and governed by viceroys like that of Algiers, but the whole is under the immediate inspection of the bey himself, who collects the tribute in person. For this purpose he visits, with a flying camp, once every year, the principal parts of it-traversing in the summer season the fertile country in the neighbourhood of Keff and Beja, and in the winter the several districts between Kairwan and the Jerid. These two circuits very nearly correspond with the Zeugitania and the Byzacium of the ancients; the former, or summer-circuit, comprehends all the land that lies to the northward of the Gulf of Hammamet, while the latter, or winter-circuit, embraces the section which extends southward from the same parallel.

Beginning with the western part of Zeugitania, our attention is drawn to a magnificent cape, supposed to be the spot where Scipio landed in his first African expedition. A few miles to the southward is the town of Bizerta, pleasantly situated on a canal between an extensive lake and the sea. It is about a mile in circumference, and defended by several fortresses; but its chief importance, in a geographical point of view, arises from the supposition that it is the Hippo Zaritus of ancient authors.

The site of Utica, so famous for the opposition made by its inhabitants to the cause of Cæsar, and for the death of the republican Cato, can no longer be determined. The Bagrada, the river on which it stood, having changed its course, and large accessions being made to the land by depositions from its current, it is now a matter of conjecture where the ruins of a city so intimately connected with the history of Africa are to be sought.

Proceeding eastward from Tunis, the traveller, at the distance of six miles, reaches the town of Rhades, celebrated as the place where Regulus defeated the Carthaginians. About a league farther on, in the same direction, is Hammam Leif, named from the hot-baths with which it abounds. Near this position is the village of Solyman, inhabited by Andalusian Moors, who, being more civilized than their African brethren, are very courteous to Christians: they still retain the Spanish language. Passing Moraisah and Sidi Doud, we come to

Lowharcah, the Aquilaria of Pliny, where Curio landed those troops which were afterward cut in pieces by Sabura. It presents various fragments of architecture, but none worthy of particular notice. In this vicinity Cape Bon rears its prominent ridge, from which, it is said, the mountains of Sicily may be seen in clear weather. Fifteen miles from this cape is Clybea, the Kalibia of the Latins, which is now represented by a miserable knot of hovels. Ghurba, in former times Corubis, is seven leagues distant from the village just described. It was once a considerable place; though, at present, the ruins of a large aqueduct, with the cisterns that received the water, are the only antiquities. Nabal, which next succeeds, holds the place of Neapolis, the wrecks of which prove it to have been a considerable city, even exclusive of that part of it long ago swallowed up by the sea. From this point, a journey of two leagues brings the visiter to Hammamet, or the Dwelling of Wild Pigeons, which Leo Africanus informs us was built about his own time. The pillars, blocks of marble, and inscriptions, with some few other tokens of antiquity, are understood to have been brought from the neighbouring ruins of Cassir Aseite, the Civitas Siagitana of classical authors. In a contiguous plain is a building called the Manarah, a large mausoleum, nearly twenty yards in diameter, of a cylindrical form, with a vault underneath it. Several small altars-conjectured by the Moors to have been so many manara, or lamps displayed for the direction of mariners are placed upon the cornice. This position marks the boundary, on the seacoast, between the summer and winter circuits.*

The towns in the interior of the same division are not unworthy of notice. Returning to the western border, we meet with Beja or Bay-Jah, supposed to be the Vacca of Sallust, and the Oppidum Vagense of Pliny. It is still a place of considerable trade-the chief mart, indeed, of the whole kingdom, particularly for corn, by the price of which all commodities are estimated. In the plain of Busdera, on the banks of the Mejerdah, a public fair is held every summer,

* Shaw, vol. i., p. 181. cription:

The altars bear the following in

L. EMILIO AFRICANO AVUNCULO
C. SUELLIO PONTARO PATRUELI
VITELLIO QUARTO PATRI.

which is frequented by the most distant Arabian tribes, who resort thither with their flocks, their manufactures, and their families. Near the river just mentioned is Tuburbo, a village inhabited by Spanish Moors. In this neighbourhood, a late bey planted a great variety of fruit-trees, which were ranged in so particular a manner that each species was confined to one grove, and thereby removed from the influence of every other. Thus, the orange-trees were all placed by themselves, without the admission of the lime or the citron; and where the pear or the apple was gathered, there was no encouragement to look for the peach or apricot. The traveller next arrives at Tuckaaber and Tubersoke, which present nothing remarkable beyond a few inscriptions that have now become nearly unintelligible. Passing the latter of these hamlets we come to Lorbus; and at an equal distance from both is the ancient Musti, now called Abdel Abbus, where are the remains of a beautiful triumphal arch. Upon a stone which may have formerly belonged to it, is the following dedi

cation:

INVICTISSIMO FELICISSIMOQUE IMPERATORI
AUGUSTO CESARI ORBIS PACATORI
MUSTICENSIUM D. D.

Keff, known as the Sicca Veneria of Roman authors, situated about seventy miles from Tunis, is esteemed, in point of riches and strength, the third town in the kingdom. During the civil war already recorded, the greatest part of the citadel was blown up; but it has been rebuilt on an improved plan, which contributes at once to its beauty and efficiency. In levelling an adjacent mount, to find materials for this fortress, the workmen brought to light an entire statue of Venus, which, however, was no sooner seen than it was broken to pieces by these barbarians. This discovery is regarded as at once authorizing and illustrating the epithet of Veneria, by which the town is distinguished. There was also dug up, at the same time, an equestrian statue, dedicated to Marcus Antoninus Rufus, which suffered the fate of the other. Keff, as the name imports, stands upon the declivity of a hill, with a plentiful spring of water near the centre of it. The following inscription can still be read on a public building :

VICTORI
CONTURIONI
LEGIONARIO
EX EQUITE
ROMANO
OB MUNIFI
CENTIAM ORDO

SICCENSIUM

CIVI

ET CONDECURIONI
D. D. P. P.

Tubersoke, about seven leagues south from Tunis, is built in the form of a crescent between two ridges of a very verdant mountain, and presents, as the sole remains of antiquity, a large pair of stag's horns, weli delineated in low-relief, on the gate of an extensive edifice. To Zowan, the only other town in this direction, we have already alluded, as one of the sources whence water was supplied to Carthage. At the present day its reputation is confined to the dying of scarlet caps and the bleaching of linen, great quantities of both being daily brought thither from Tunis and Susa.*

In Byzacium, or the winter-circuit, there are still towns which, either from their ancient importance, or the conspicuous place they hold in modern maps, are worthy of a brief notice. Herkla, the Heraclea of the Lower Empire, the Justiniana of the middle ages, and the Adrumetum of remoter antiquity, stands on the Gulf of Hammamet. Susa, a few miles farther to the southeast, possesses some notoriety as a market for oil and fine linen, and may be reckoned one of the most considerable cities of which the Tunisians can boast. Its architectural remains, though not splendid, prove that it must have been a place of distinction, even as early as the days of Cæsar. Passing Sahaleel and Monasteer, we arrive at Lempta, the Leptis Parva of Hirtius and Lucan; of which, however, nothing now is seen except the ruins of a castle and some traces of its cothon or harbour. Agar and Demass, mentioned by the annalist of Cæsar's campaigns, still retain sufficient indications of strength to explain the value which was attached to their occupation by that master in the art of Mahedia is situated upon a peninsula five miles to the south of the latter of these towns, and appears to have been

war.

* Shaw, vol. i., p. 191.

a place of great consequence. Leo Africanus says it was built by Mahdi, the first patriarch of Kairwan, and therefore assumed his name; but Dr. Shaw remarks, there is something too regular in several of the remaining capitals, entablatures, and other pieces of the ancient masonry, even defaced as they now appear, to warrant the opinion that the founder of them was an Arab.*

At Sallecto, the Sublecte of the middle ages, are the ruins of a castle little inferior in extent to the Tower of London, erected apparently for the protection of a small port which lies below it. Elalia, besides the ordinary remains of old towns, displays those of several cisterns, with large paved areas built over them, meant to receive the rain-water by which they were periodically replenished. These, and similar structures in this part of the country, are ascribed to the Sultan Ben-Aglib, a prince who, for his public spirit and warlike exploits, is justly held in the greatest veneration. Advancing along the shore, we observe Sbea, Ca-poudia, and the two islands of Karkenna, the Cerrina and the Corinitis of the old geographers. Here it is usual to fix the commencement of the Lesser Syrtis; from which point to the Island of Jerba, there is a succession of flat islets and sandbanks, whence the inhabitants derive much advantage in their simple fisheries. Sfax or Sfakus, a thriving village, carries us on to Thainee and Maharess, at the latter of which stations are the relics of a fortress. Then follow on the line of the coast Ellamait, Suli Midthil, and Woodlif. Three leagues from this last is Cabes, the Epichus of Scylax and the Tacape of other ancient geographers, where Dr. Shaw was struck with the appearance of a heap of ruins, among which were some beautiful granite pillars. They were all of them square, and twelve feet long; and, on the whole, were such as he had not seen in any other part of Africa. A walk of three miles conducts the stranger to the little village of Tobulba, whence, in a clear atmosphere, may be descried the Island of Jerba, the southern boundary of the Tunisian state.†

In regard to some of the towns now mentioned, M. Bla

El Mahdia oppidum nostris ferè temporibus a Mahdi primo Cairoan pontifice conditum. Descriptio Africæ, p. 573. Shaw, vol. i., p. 208. Travels in Barbary, vol. i., p. 216.