Slike strani
PDF
ePub

above its mouth, and the whole trading portion of the tribe ascend it till by a short portage they carry their canoes to the Columbia Valley, and descend the Multnomah to Wappatoo Island. This information he obtained from Indians and traders. On this short expedition he made all his distances from Cape Disappointment and Point Adams too great, and reducing the fore-mentioned twenty miles by the proper proportion, it would give us thirteen miles as about the position of the Nehalem. His name seems to agree with this, but the description applies to what is generally known as Tillamook Bay.

It was in this vicinity that Meares stood in for an anchorage, (July 1788,) until he found bottom in ten fathoms, but hauled out again and named the place Quicksand Bay, and the adjoining headland north Cape Grenville.

CAPE FALCON, OR FALSE TILLAMOOK.

The northern part of this headland lies in latitude 45° 47', longitude 123° 58'. Upon passing close by it in 1857, we judged it to be not less than three thousand feet high, with the sea face coming precipitously to the ocean, and off it lie two prominent rocky islets. As seen from the southward, the top is irregular, while the hills inshore fall away. Like some other points on the Oregon coast, the southern face of the cape is destitute of trees, but covered with a thick growth of grass, bushes, and fern. Two miles south of it is a stretch of sand beach and sand dunes, behind which is the Nehalem River.

A few miles eastward of the cape is a very broken mountain.

Twenty-one miles, west by north three-quarters north, from the cape the Coast Survey chart gives a sounding of eighty-five fathoms over muddy bottom; and another of one hundred and thirty fathoms, same bottom, twenty-seven miles west half north from the cape.

From Cape Lookout to this headland a depth of twenty fathoms may generally be found a mile from shore; but, as upon the whole coast, a heavy regular swell always rolls in from the west.

In 1775, Heceta placed a headland in latitude 45° 43', to which he gave the appellation Cape Falcon. According to his description it had a rocky islet lying off it. In 1853 Davidson applied this name to the cape as far preferable to using the term "false" to capes, bays, &c., the names of which were at first uncertain. In 1788, Meares called this Cape Grenville.

The Indian name for the double-peaked mountain about three-quarters of a mile southward of it, is Ne-ah-kah-nie.

TILLAMOOK HEAD.

This prominent cape, in latitude 45° 58', is twelve miles north-northwest from Cape Falcon, and nineteen miles southeast by south half south from Cape Disappointment. The coast from Cape Falcon curves two miles eastward; is bold and rugged, guarded by many high rocky islets and reefs, and in several places bordered by a low sand beach at the base of the cliffs. Two miles south of the head,

Clarke (1805-6) locates a creek, eighty yards wide at its mouth, which he calls Ecola or Whale Creek. From the south bar of the Columbia River the summit of Tillamook appears flat for some distance back, and has an estimated height of two thousand five hundred feet. Off the face of the cape, which is very steep, lie several rocky islets. One of them is high and rugged, and stands out about a mile from the southwest face. Around it the water is believed to be deep, as, during a thick fog in 1853, we came almost upon it in the Coast Survey steamer; but inside of it lie several high rocks. From Columbia River Bar two rocks can be distinctly seen apparently off this head, the inner being the larger, and its apparent distance from the head about half the apparent height of the cape. Whether the smaller is the one off Cape Falcon, we did not determine. As seen from the southward the large rock has a perpendicular face to the westward, and slopes to the east. It is the resort of thousands of seals.

From Cape Falcon to the large, rocky islet off Tillamook Head, the line of soundings increases regularly from sixteen to thirty fathoms; and thence to the south bar of Columbia River, they range from twenty-two to thirteen, and suddenly shoal, near the bar, to three fathoms. Eleven miles northwest by north onethird north from Tillamook Head, the Coast Survey chart has a sounding in sixty fathoms over sandy bottom; and seventeen miles southwest one-third west from the head there is a depth of eighty fathoms, over muddy bottom. From fifteen to eighteen miles west by south from Tillamook Head, La Pérouse got soundings in eighty fathoms over muddy bottom.

This cape is a good landmark for making the mouth of the Columbia River, no such high headland occurring on the coast northward of it for over seventy. miles; and before being up with it, the moderately high land of Cape Disappointment is seen and made as two islands.

The face of the cape is much broken, and formed principally of yellow clay, presenting a bright appearance in the sunlight. Clarke says that twelve hundred feet above the ocean occurs a stratum of white earth, then (1805–6) used by the Indians as paint; and that the hillsides slip away in masses of fifty to one hundred acres at a time. Upon the top of the cape he found good, sound, solid trees growing to a height of two hundred and ten feet, with diameters of from eight to twelve feet. From Tillamook Head southward many miles was the country of the Killamuck Indians, then estimated to number a thousand people, and having fifty houses.

In latitude 45° 55′ La Pérouse speaks of a cape formed by a round-topped mountain, as the Cape Redondo of the Spaniards. It bore east 50 south, true, from his position. The Coast Survey chart has a mountain eight miles east-northeast from the head.

De Mofras calls it the Cap N. S. de la Lux.

This is the head which is properly called "Clarke's Point of View."

Some recent maps erroneously call this Cape Lookout.

The coast from Point Orford to Tillamook Head is well diversified by high

[graphic][merged small]

hills and valleys, presenting a country well watered by numerous small streams emptying into the ocean. It is densely covered with various woods, and for a few miles inland, looks favorably from the deck of a vessel. Some distance in the interior, ranges of mountains occur, the general direction of which appears to be parallel with the coast-line, which attained its greatest elevation and compactness between Cape Falcon and Tillamook Head; after which a sudden and marked change takes place, and a stretch of low sandy coast commences, and runs for nearly one hundred miles northward, only broken by Cape Disappointment. The high mountains of the interior are, however, seen over this low shore.

COLUMBIA RIVER.

POINT ADAMS.

Two miles northward of Tillamook Head commences a peculiar line of low sandy ridges, running parallel to the beach towards Point Adams, and appearing like huge sand waves covered with grass and fern. Between some of them run small creeks, while the country behind is low, swampy, and covered with wood and an almost impenetrable undergrowth. About three miles north of the head, Clarke says, a beautiful stream empties, with a strong rapid current. It is eighty-five yards wide, and has three feet at its shallowest crossing.

Point Adams is low and sandy, covered with bushes and trees to the line of sand beach and low dunes; and although it is reported to have washed away over half a mile since 1841, we find comparatively small changes since the survey of Broughton in 1792.

The geographical position of the flag-staff of Fort Stevens is:

[merged small][merged small][ocr errors][merged small][merged small]

This position is on the northeast part of the point, about half a mile from the ocean beach.

Fort Stevens is built on Point Adams.

No light-house exists here, but the necessity for one has been so repeatedly urged, that we cannot refrain from calling attention to a few facts bearing upon the question. Off this point, southwest by south three and a quarter miles, lies (1852) the bar of the south channel, through which the far greater portion of the trade has passed; and all vessels use this point as a standard point for their ranges. During the early part of the evening, dense fogs formed over the waters of Gray's and Shoalwater Bays are brought southward by the summer winds, and roll over Disappointment, which they completely shut in before reaching across the river, so that a vessel might make a light on Ponit Adams when the other cape was invisible; but if both lights were visible a vessel could hold any required position at

« PrejšnjaNaprej »