extent each (Appendix G). They occupy the northwestern slope of the north mountainrange. They commence on the crest, or backbone, and extend down the side perhaps the fourth of a mile. They are within the calm zone, and seem never to have been shaken with more than a breath of air. Some of the trees were from 60 to 70 feet in height. Exceedingly tall and slender saplings stood as erect as flag-poles. (This pine is referred to in the Appendix.)

An arctos

The cedar grew more in the sheltered ravines. It had also braved the winds at points within the windy zone, but its body lay almost flat against the side of the mountain. A dwarf-oak, a mere tall shrub, was found on the north side of Mount Ayres. taphylon (manzanito) occurred near the summit. It attained a height of about 10 feet. The botanical collection was given to Mr. Bloomer, the curator of that department of the Academy of Sciences. Dr. Kellog described and figured many of them. They proved to be nearly all specifically and some generally new. For a more particular description of some of the more interesting species, I refer to the Appendix. The two interesting species of Rhus (R. Lentiana and R. Veatchiana) form marked features in the island flora, the former for the delicious acid exudation of its fruit, and the latter for its strangely grotesque growth and the picturesque effect of its profusion of pink flowers.

A shrub that rooted itself in crevices of the rocks in considerable abundance bore an excellent gland-like fruit, having much the appearance and size of a small acorn, and tasting like a chestnut. The goats and deer fed both on the fruit and leaves. The The genus is described in the "Boundary Survey Report" as Simondsia, and the present species was named by Dr. Kellag as the S. Pabulosa.

The grasses were few and sparse. I lost those I collected. The goats and deer could derive but scanty sustenance from the grasses, and therefore the fine condition they were in was, of course, drawn from some other class of food.

A beautiful yellow-flowered agave or aloe plant, about 12 feet in height, with a stem from four to six inches in diameter at the base, branching and spreading at the top and terminating in a profusion of golden blossoms, was tolerably abundant. The flower-cups were filled with a fragrant, sweet liquid.

The cactus family was represented by some four or five species; among them a giant cereus and a very minute species of Mamalaria, with a disproportionately large flower, exceedingly fragrant.

Of the Cryptogamia, I found one fern and some half-dozen lichens; one of them only was abundant, on the rocks in one locality, toward the northern part of the island. It was two or three inches in height, somewhat branched, of a grayish color, and resembled a sterocaulon. The lichens have not yet been determined. The collection is in the herbarium of the Academy of Sciences, and ere long will be reached by the indefatigable industry of Bolander and Kellag. Of the marine Algæ the giant kelp-weed (Macrocystus pyrifera) is the most important and conspicuous. The singular fact of its disappearance in a great measure from certain portions of the coast of Lower California is noticed in Captain Scammon's notes. Captain S. informs me that the same thing occurred at Pitcairn's Island some years ago-the kelp disappeared and left certain portions of the shore exposed to the unbroken fury of the waves, which, ere the decay of the Macrocystus, had been noted for calmness and quiet. In the course of five or six years, however, the kelp again sprang up and reoccupied its old field, and bade the waves be still once more.

This disappearance of the great wave-soothing ocean-plant is probably to be accounted for by its buoyancy-lifting the stones on which it is rooted, and floating off with the anchor that could hold the younger, but not the mature plant, with its immense length, its great cysts of air, and its broad, cellular floating leaves, impelled by storms and currents. It is to be hoped this important sea-weed may again fringe the coast from which it has partially departed. The Macrocystus is at present attracting attention as a source of iodine. It is said to be, along our coast, particularly rich in that valuable substance. It may be destined to add another item to the list of California resources.

In illustration of the volcanic action existing along our coast, I append the following article. A chain of submarine volcanoes lying parallel with our shore, and not greatly distant from it, may account for the slight earthquakes that rather too frequently disturb us:

BORACIC ACID IN THE SEA-WATER OF THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA. From the Proceedings of the California Academy of Natural Sciences, January 17, 1859. Dr. John A. Veatch read the following paper on the occurrence of boracic acid in the sea-water of the Pacific:

"The existence of boracic acid in the sea-water of our coast was brought to my notice in July, 1857. I had, in the month of January of the previous year, discovered borate of soda and other borates in solution in the water of a mineral spring in Tehama County, near the upper end of the Sacramento Valley. Prosecuting the research, I found traces of boracic

acid-in the form of borates—in nearly all the mineral springs with which the State of Cali fornia abounds.

"This was especially the case in the coast mountains. Borate of soda was so abundant in one particular locality that enormous crystals of that salt were found at the bottom of a shallow lake, or rather marsh, one or two hundred acres in extent.

"The crystals were hexahedral, with bevelled or replaced edges, and truncated angles; attaining the size, in some cases, of four inches in length by two in diameter, forming splendid and attractive specimens.* In the same neighborhood a cluster of small thermal springs were observed holding free boracic acid in solution. A few hundred yards from these, a great number of hot-springs, of a temperature of 212°, rose up through the fissures of a silicious rock. These springs held a considerable quantity of borax, as well as free boracic acid. Many other localities furnished similar indications, but in less extensive form.

"In progress of the examination, I found that the common salt (chloride of sodium) exposed for sale in the San Francisco market, and which, it was understood, came from certain deposits of that article on the sea margin in the southern part of the State, also furnished boracic acid. I was led to attribute it to the fact of mineral springs emptying into the lagoons furnishing the salt.

"It was, therefore, a matter of no small surprise, when, on a visit to the localities, I found no trace of acid in any of the springs in the adjacent district. This led to an examination of the sea-water, and a detection of an appreciable quantity of boracic acid therein.

"It was at Santa Bárbara, where I first detected it, and subsequently at various points, from San Diego to the Straits of Fuca. It seems to be in the form of borate of soda, and perhaps of lime. The quantity diminishes toward the north. It is barely perceptible in specimens of water brought from beyond Oregon, and seems to meet its maximum near San Diego.

"This peculiarity seems to extend no great distance seaward. Water taken 30 or 40 miles west of San Francisco gave no trace of acid. In 12 specimens, taken at various points betwixt this port and the Sandwich Islands, furnished me by Mr. Gulick, of Honolulu, only that nearest our coast gave boracic acid. In 10 specimens, kindly furnished me by Dr. W. O. Ayres, taken up by Dr. J. D. B. Stillman, in a trip of one of the Pacific mail-steamers from Panama to this place, no acid was discovered south of the Cortes Shoals.

"I hope in future to be able to make more accurate and extended examinations, unless some one more capable of doing justice to the subject should take it in hand. With this view, I solicited the attention of Dr. J. S. Newberry to these facts while he was in this city, on his way to join Lieutenant Ives's Colorado Exploring Expedition, hoping he might think it worthy of investigation during his stay on this coast. With the same view, I now submit them to the Academy."

APPENDIX (J).

TITANIFEROUS IRON ORE.

THE above species of ore, I believe, is not found in many localities in abundance. The superior value of the iron produced from it will doubtless produce a demand for the ore. The following article, as bearing upon the subject, I clip from a December number of the Mining and Scientific Press of San Francisco :

TITANIUM IRON.

"A valuable discovery is reported in the English papers, which consists of a cheap process for smelting titanic iron ore, which has hitherto defied, or greatly perplexed, all ironmasters and scientific men in the trade. It is a well-known fact that iron made from titaniferous ore is most valuable, on account of its hardness and tensile strength being five times greater than ordinary iron; this iron will be admirably adopted for plating on iron-clads, and also for rails, on account of its hardness and strength, and the discoverer will be prepared to test this iron against any other iron hitherto discovered for these purposes, or for making steel. If the discovery is one which can be cheaply introduced, or one by which titanium iron can be manufactured at about the cost of Bessemer steel, it will be a valuable one indeed.

(C A company has recently been formed in England for the manufacture of titanic steel and iron after the mode devised by Mr. Mushet, which, we believe, is nearly ready to go into operation. We perceive from the London Mining Journal, last received, that an extraordinary general meeting of this company has been called, to take into consideration the agreement entered into by the company with Messrs. Mushet & Clare, with a view to the modification thereof. This may possibly have some reference to the new discovery above spoken of. At all events, there is good reason to believe that the well-known and valuable properties of titanium will soon be economically introduced into the manufacture of iron, in such a manner as to work a most important improvement in this great agent of civilization and practical mechanism."

* This is the well-known "Borax Lake," the property of the "California Borax Company." It is being extensively worked at present, and furnishes large quantities of the best commercial borax known.

APPENDIX (K).

ERROR IN COAST CHARTS OF LOWER CALIFORNIA.

THE chart most in use is that of James Imray and Son, London. The entire coast, from a short distance below San Diego to near Cape St. Lucas, is placed some 14 miles too far to the west, as is established by numerous careful observations. The little guano island of Elide, in the bay of San Sebastian, about a mile from the shore, is in latitude 28° 37′ N., and longitude 114° 25′ W., as determined by Captain R. N. Dearing. This position would place it far inland on Imlay's chart. The peninsula is, therefore, several miles narrower than usually represented on the maps, unless a corresponding error exists as to its eastern or gulf coast. As the pearlfishery drew early attention to the gulf, it is probable the prominent points on the shores were pretty correctly established by the Spanish navigators. The position of Cape San Lucas was early determined by the Abbé Chappe.

EXTRACTS FROM A HISTORY OF OLD OR LOWER CALIFORNIA.

[A posthumous work, written originally in Spanish, by Padre FRANCISCO JAVIER CLAVIJERO, of the Society of Jesus. Translated into Italian for publication. Venice, 1789. From Italian to Spanish, again, by the priest NICOLAS GARCIA, de San Vicente; JUAN R. NAVARRO, editor. Mexico, 1852. Translated from this edition into English, by A. G. RANDÁLL, Secretary and Translator of the Lower California Company's Exploring Expedition. San Francisco, May, 1867.]

From Preface of the Editor." The publication of 'Three Ages of Mexico,' by Father Cavo, having been concluded in our 'Library,' and being desirous of offering to our subscribers another national historical work, we could not hesitate in our choice, after seeing the History of California,' by the celebrated Vera Cruz Jesuit, Clavijero.

"The universal fame which this distinguished writer has acquired by his 'Ancient History of Mexico,' obviates the necessity of any panegyric on the work which we now offer our subscribers. It was left unpublished by the author at his death, but was subsequently published in Venice in 1789, in two small volumes. The difficulties encountered by Clavijero to have his great work published in Spanish, and which finally compelled him to abandon the printing of it in that tongue, without doubt induced him to also write the History of California in Italian; and we have the satisfaction of being the first to present it, returned to its native language.

"We have had in view two translations from which to select what would serve for our text, one of which was made by the clergyman Nicolas Garcia, of San Vicente, well known among us by his various elementary works; the other is by Don Diego Troncoso and Buenecino, also author of an unpublished translation of the 'Ancient History of Mexico.'

"After a thorough examination of both, we have given preference to that of Father San Vicente, as being generally more exact and of better style. Notwithstanding, a careful revision has revealed some errors, inevitable in works of this nature, and we have made the necessary corrections, at times making use of happier interpretations of Señor Troncoso. We also avail ourselves of an appendix inserted at the latter part which he added to his translation, in which he refers briefly to the progress of California, from the expulsion of the Jesuits up to the year 1796.

*

"We have not copied the original Italian map, as, being made in Europe, almost from memory, after the death of the author, it does not merit confidence; instead of which we shall give another, more modern, with greater probability of correctness.

*

*

*

"It only remains for us to express our gratitude to Señor J. M. Andrade, the proprietor of the work now offered to our readers, who generously furnished it, solely for the pleasure of contributing to our Library." (Biblioteca.)

From Notice of the Translator.-"In relation to the map, the Venetian editors observe, that it was got up by Don Ramon Tarros, who had the use of the maps of Father Consag, and which were published in the 'Notices of California,' making use of the data furnished by the author of that work, and some verbal information from missionaries resident in Venice. So far as distances are concerned, especially in the interior of the peninsula, they can't be considered exact, as they are mostly furnished by persons who, although sincere, judged from calculation or guess-work."

From the Preface of the Author.—“ Although ‘Old California,' from its discovery, began to acquire celebrity for the pearls which abound in the neighboring waters, and, although its coasts were scarcely known, and almost nothing of the customs of its inhabitants, no one was found during the past two centuries to undertake writing its history. In the present century, after the Jesuits had made a reconnoissance of the greater portion of the peninsula, and had established numerous missions, Father Miguel Venegas, a Mexican Jesuit-making use of letters of the missionaries, and especially of those of Fathers Salvatierra, Piccolo, and Ugarte, who were the oldest and most celebrated; of the manuscript history of Sonora, made up by the indefatigable Father Kino, from the diary of the Captain-Governor of California, Estevan Rodriguez Lorenzo; of the written accounts of the erudite Father Segismundo Taraval, and of other original documents found in the archives of Mexico-wrote in a bulky volume its history. The manuscript of Venegas was forwarded to Madrid to Father Andres Marcos Burriel, an erudite and laborious Jesuit of the province of Toledo, and well known for his work. on the 'Ancient Weights and Measures' of that city. He, after having put this history in

better shape, cutting it down here, adding to it there with new material, in part sent to him from Mexico, and in part taken from the archives in Madrid, as well as that taken from many authors, printed it at that court in the year 1757, dedicating it to the Catholic King Fernando VI., in the name of the Mexican province. The work came to light with the modest title of Notices of California,' inasmuch as that learned Spaniard did not believe that he would have the material necessary for a history; but the English translator, afterward imitated by the Frenchman and Hollander, gave it for title, 'A Natural and Civil History of California,' London, 1759. Notwithstanding, it contained nothing of natural history. Subsequently Padre Jacob Begert, an Italian Jesuit, who was for seventeen years a missionary in California, having returned home from that country, wrote in German, and published in Munich, in 1772, a new history of California, of which, although we know it was well received there, we can't make use, as it has not reached us.

"In the Spanish edition, it not only lacks natural history, but also much essential information, and contains many errors, although unblamable. To these the Abbots Miguel del Barco and Lucas Ventura, by their diligence, sought to apply a remedy, being practical men in California, sincere and very correct. The Abbot del Barco was a missionary there for the space of thirty years, and visited all the missions, and, although not a professional naturalist, nor would the important duties of his ministry permit of his dedicating himself to the study of nature, still, being of an observing turn of mind, and gifted with a good critical judgment, he could observe in the course of so many years, and afterward write sufficient to give a correct idea of, the soil, climate, productions, and animals of California. The Abbot Ventura was also eleven years missionary of Loreto, and solicitor for all the missions, by virtue of which he was well informed in relation to all the business of the peninsula. These persons corrected the Spanish edition, and added thereto the essay on natural history, and the information lacking, continuing the narration up to 1768.

Believing that I can render a service to the public, presenting to it a truthful and correct history of California, I have availed myself of the said writings, omitting from the Spanish history every thing which does not directly or indirectly have a bearing on that of said peninsula. Although I have made use of all the knowledge which I have acquired through my studies and investigations, and have obtained verbal information from persons who have been many years in California, yet, it being very easy for an author to commit errors in writing the history of a country where he has not been, I have caused two persons of the most practical of that country to revise this work, and my experience has shown that this step has not been superfluous."

Note of A. G. R., present Translator.-Here follows an extended criticism, by said author, of all other historians who had written on Mexico and California, in which he handles them without gloves, demonstrating that they had written nothing reliable on the subject; this refers particularly to Pau, Robertson, Lacroix, and José Joaquin de Mora, the last of whom he accuses of misspelling nearly all the Mexican names, even that of Javier in the frontispiece of the work, which was published in London in 1826.

BOOK FIRST.

SITUATION-SOIL-CLIMATE-MINERALS-PLANTS, AND ANIMALS OF CALIFORNIA,

OLD or Lower California is a peninsula of Septentrional America, which, being separated from the continent of New Spain at the mouth of the Colorado River at 33° N. latitude, and 262° longitude, terminates at Cape St. Lucas at 22° 24′ N. latitude, and 268° longitude.*

This cape is the southern extremity of the peninsula; the Colorado River is the eastern extremity, and the port of San Diego, situated in 33° N. latitude, and about 256° longitude, may be considered the western boundary. To the north and northwest it borders on countries of barbarous nations, but little known on the coasts, and not at all in the interior; on the west its shores are washed by the Pacific Ocean, and on the east by the Gulf of California, also called the Red Sea, from the reddish appearance of its waters; also the Sea of Cortes, in honor of the famous conqueror of Mexico, who was the means of its discovery, and navigated there. The length of the peninsula is 10 degrees; its width varies from 10 to 20 or more leagues.

The name California was, in the first place, given to one part only, but afterward it was extended over the whole peninsula; and some geographers have even taken the liberty to comprise under this name New Mexico, the Apache country, and other regions north, very

*In relation to the geographical longitude of California, there is a variety of opinions among geographers. I rely upon the observations made by the Spanish astronomer, Vicente Dos, of which mention is made in the supplement to the Gazette of Pésaro, November 13, 1790, according to which there is a difference of 7 hours and 28 minutes between the meridian of Paris and that of San José, near Cape St. Lucas, from which difference it is deduced that the longitude of San José, as well as Cape St. Lucas, which is on the same meridian, is 268°.