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miles wide. A steam ferry boat runs between them. The various towns and harbors further inland are referred to elsewhere.

With such facilities for foreign and domestic trade, as the harbor of San Francisco affords to that city, there is nothing remarkable in the fact that three-fourths of the capital, and nearly one-fourth of the population of the State, are concentrated there.

Tidal Influences.-The tidal influences on the rivers emptying into the bay of San Francisco, extend to the head of navigation in the interior. The maximum rise of full tide at San Francisco, is 8 feet two inches; at Benicia, 7 feet 6 inches; at Sacramento, 2 feet 6 inches; at Stockton, 2 feet 1 inch. At Crescent city, on the north, the maximum rise of tide is 9 feet; at San Diego, on the south, 7 feet.

SAN DIEGO HARBOR.

San Diego harbor is on the extreme southern portion of the coast line within the boundary of California, in San Diego county, latitude 32°41', four hundred and fifty-six miles south of San Francisco. It is next in importance to San Francisco bay, both in security and geographical position. It was the principal harbor of Upper California until 1830. It is well sheltered from all winds by surrounding hills, but has few of the advantages for inland traffic possessed in such an eminent degree by San Francisco. The harbor is in the form of a broad curve, about twelve miles in length, and from one to two miles wide. For about five miles from its entrance there is a channel half a mile wide, in which there is never less than thirty feet of water, with excellent anchorage, on a sandy clay bottom.

Being several hundred miles more directly in the track of the China and Sandwich islands steamers than San Francisco, it might become a formidable rival to that port in the important trade with those countries were it connected with a railroad across the continent; but the resources of the country are being so slowly developed that it is not probable such a railroad will be built in the immediate future. The California, Mexico, and Oregon Steam Navigation Company contemplate erecting a wharf here, which would be a great benefit to the trade of the place, and aid in developing the wealth of the country. The trade is at present confined to shipping wine, wool, and other products.

SAN PEDRO BAY.

This bay is in Los Angeles county, three hundred and seventy-three miles south of San Francisco. This harbor is formed by a spur from Point St. Vincent, which trends to the south about eight miles, and

Deadman's Island, which lies across its end, while the mainland on this portion of the coast, trending to the southeast, forms a capacious bay, sheltered from all except the southerly winds-the most dangerous along that coast during the fall and winter. The water for several miles from the mainland, is very shallow, vessels being compelled to anchor about two miles off shore, but there is plenty of water and good anchorage near the island. All the freight and passengers, by steamers and sailing vessels, are placed on board and landed by means of lighters. The port of San Pedro lost much of its importance in 1858, when the town of Wilmington was established, at the head of what is now called Wilmington bay, about four miles further inland, and nearer to the city of Los Angeles, but there is considerable trade there now. It is the port for the fishermen of Santa Catalina and Santa Barbara islands, and a large portion of the produce of Los Angeles and Santa Barbara counties is shipped and supplies landed here. It has been proposed to erect a breakwater at San Pedro, from Deadman's island to Rattlesnake island, about one and a quarter miles in length, running north and south, and from Fisherman's point, near the old San Pedro wharf, about half a mile in length, running east and west. Were these walls built, San Pedro would be the safest and most commodious harbor on the southern coast. As this is the most convenient point for shipping the valuable produce of Los Angeles and San Bernardino counties, a safe and capacious harbor becomes a matter of importance connected with the development of the resources of that section of the State. The necessity for using lighters in shipping or landing freight does not conform to modern American ideas of commerce. As there is no remedy for the present condition of matters in this vicinity, except the construction of a breakwater, it is almost certain that one will soon be built.

Anaheim landing, the center of the wine trade of Los Angeles, is located on the northern bank of the Santa Ana river, about ten miles south from Wilmington. Here, also, the water is so shallow that vessels are compelled to anchor three miles from the shore, all goods and passengers being landed in lighters or boats. The Anaheim Lighter Company does an extensive business in loading produce and landing supplies for the wine and fruit growers, farmers and stock raisers in the district.

THE SANTA BARBARA CHANNEL.

This roadstead is formed by the islands of San Miguel, Santa Rosa, and Santa Cruz, which are about twenty miles from and parallel with

the mainland, south of Point Concepcion, where the coast line trends. almost due east for about sixty miles. This channel affords shelter on the north and south, but is exposed from the east and west. There is plenty of water and good holding ground in the middle of the channel, but the whole coast, nearly as far down as San Diego, is shallow for several miles from the shore.

There is a good wharf at the town of Santa Barbara, which runs out nearly one thousand feet, and enables vessels drawing twelve feet of water to load and unload alongside. This section of the State, being chiefly devoted to cattle and sheep raising, the shipping business is not very extensive. Wool and hides form leading items in the exports.

The extensive deposits of asphaltum which exist on this section of the coast give employment to several vessels in supplying the demand for the San Francisco market, where it is largely used for paving and other purposes. The vessels engaged in this business load from the beach, where they collect the material. The following plan for loading asphaltum will explain the nature of the coast in this vicinity, and be interesting as an illustration of Yankee inventiveness. The proprietor of a large deposit of this mineral found it impossible to get it on board vessels to send to a market. The breakers, which curl with great fury for miles along the coast, stove all the boats he used, and the shore was so hard and rocky that piles could not be driven to make a wharf, and the vessels were compelled to lay too far out to make a connection with the shore. As a last resource, he hit upon an expedient. Having a number of yoke of well trained oxen, they are made to haul a large cart containing three or four tons of asphaltum through the surf beyond the breakers, where boats from the vessel are in waiting to receive it, the oxen standing up to their ears in the salt water while the boats are being loaded. About twenty tons a day are loaded in this

manner.

At San Buenaventura, about twenty-five miles southeast from Santa Barbara, there is a landing at which it is contemplated to build a wharf to connect with a road from this place to Owens' valley, via Havilah, Kern county. Should this project be carried out, it would greatly increase the importance of Santa Barbara as a shipping port.

SAN LUIS OBISPO BAY.

San Luis Obispo bay is a small, open indentation on the coast-line, with good anchorage and plenty of water, south of Point San Luis, a spur of Mount Buchon, which projects five or six miles to the westward, affording shelter from northerly gales. It is in San Luis Obispo

county, about two hundred miles south of San Francisco, but is of little importance as a harbor.

About ten miles further north is Estero bay, formed by a bold headland terminating the Santa Lucia mountains, which projects to the north-west, and thus affords a much better shelter than San Luis bay. A deep lagoon runs inland three or four miles behind Estero point, in which there is excellent anchorage and good conveniences for a road and landing. This lagoon is sheltered from all points, except the south. The California, Oregon and Mexico Steamship Company have had this place surveyed, with a view of making it a refuge for their vessels during the prevalence of northerly and westerly gales; such a place of safety being very much required on this portion of the coast.

There are a number of other places between Estero point and San Pedro, which are well adapted for coasting harbors, but they afford little shelter from the most dangerous winds that blow along that part of the coast.

MONTEREY BAY.

Monterey bay is ninety-two miles south of San Francisco. It is a broad, open bay, about thirty miles wide, circular in form, Point Pinos forming its southern, and Point New Year its northern headlands. Santa Cruz harbor is near the latter, and Carmelo bay near the former. These afford shelter to vessels, from certain quarters, but the bay of Monterey is exposed to all except easterly winds. There are a number of points around this bay, where coasting vessels carry on an extensive business. There are wharves erected for their accommodation, at Watsonville, Soquel, Miller's landing, Pajaro, (at the mouth of the Pajaro river, the port of the rich valley of that name,) and Millard's point. The wharf at Aptos creek is eleven hundred feet in length, from low-tide water. Considerable improvements have been made at Monterey wharf, which is now carried out to deep water. Before this improvement, passengers and freight were landed, from little boats, on the rocks along the shore.

The wharves at the mouth of the Salinas river have also been greatly improved. The dimensions of this river increase so greatly during the winter season, as to make it a risky business to build expensive wharves along its shores. Its usual width, at the entrance of the bay, is about four hundred and fifty feet. In 1862, during the wet season, it exceeded a mile.

The bay is safest and most sheltered in front of the town of Monterey, under the lee of Point Pinos, but the trade is not in that direction. Carmelo bay, on the other side of this point, is also tolerably

well sheltered, but it is not convenient for shipping. This little bay is one of the most delightful places along the coast. The mission of San Carlos was located here, its massive ruins still remaining to show the taste and skill of its early builders. It was from this bay that the granite used for building purposes at San Francisco, was obtained, before the discovery of the quarries at Folsom.

One of the most pleasant trips for a summer day is across Monterey bay, from Santa Cruz to the old town of Monterey. The two places are twenty-one miles distant by water, but forty-five miles by land. The water is so peculiarly transparent that the rocks, pebbles, and mosses at the bottom, are distinctly seen, to the depth of nearly twenty feet, while the shore of the bay in the vicinity of the old town is bold, rocky, and exceedingly picturesque. The town itself is located in a sort of nook on the side of a gently sloping hill, every house in it being visible from the water. It is surrounded by lofty hills, crested with pine and redwood, which lend a peculiar charm to the scene, embracing the clear waters of the bay in the foreground, with the dark, moss-covered rocks along the shore, and the hill side dotted with the white dwellings in the city, surmounted by the dark green belt of timber which forms a fringe against the pale blue sky. Beyond the beauty of the scenery and the interest felt in the place, there is little to attract strangers to Monterey.

Several parties of whalers have had their headquarters in this bay for some years past. They ship from five hundred to fifteen hundred barrels of oil annually to San Francisco. If the contemplated breakwater, near Santa Cruz, is ever completed, Monterey bay will become of great importance to the commerce of the coast.

SANTA CRUZ HARBOR.

Santa Cruz harbor is eighty miles south of San Francisco. It is situated at the northern extremity of Monterey bay, in Santa Cruz county, latitude 36° 57′, on the westerly slope of the Santa Cruz ridge of the coast range. It is one of the most important ports on the southern coast, being the outlet for the products of an extensive section of the richest agricultural and timber lands in the State, and the seat of a rapidly expanding manufacturing interest. Over one third of all the lime used at San Francisco, is shipped from this port, and there are extensive manufactories of powder, paper, leather, and a number of lumber-mills, which ship their products and receive their supplies from this place, giving employment to a large amount of tonnage— both sailing vessels and steamers.

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