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and exuberance of wealth may incite to peregrination, many other incentives muft co-operate to exalt the Traveller to an Author.

We have been told of Writers by profeffion, who have estimated the value of a Tour not by the cost of the journey, but by the liberality of the bookfeller; and who, if they have been lucky enough to hear of any fpot of earth not yet exhaufted by defcription, have confidered a vifit to it, during the fummer folitude of the metropolis, as no uaprofitable speculation.

Some authors have, indeed, adopted a method of travelling very compendious and œconomical; and bringing together at their own fire-fide all the Journies, Tours, and Travels which have been published on the fubject, they profefs to defcribe, felect, abridge, and bring under one view, all thefe various narratives, and thus obtain the credit and the profit of migration, without either the rique or the expence. Whether it be that this mode of book-making has excited fufpicions, of which genuine travel lers are folicitous to be clear, or that description of rural fcenery is a ready auxiliary where the fund of useful materials is scanty, we fhall not pretend to determine; but writers of this clafs of late have cumbered their pages with minute and elaborate delineations of the mountains, lakes, words, and vallies, in the regions over which they have wandered, as if fuch objects had never been obferved in their native country. The tranfcendant merit of a few writers in this method will not be denied; but however delightful it may be to the imagination, as it always is when skilfully executed, it is of all the fpecies of travel-writing, the leaft conducive to any useful purpose. It does not even communicate accurate geographical ideas of the local circumstances which it affects to defcribe. Either the "fun is fetting" at the inftant, or perchance is "juft emerging from the Eaftern horizon;" the trees are in the "full luxuriance of fpring," or the leaves have "acquired their autumnal tints;" the " zephyrs fleep upon the bofom of the lake," or its "furface is torn by billows,"

"And the high winds "Do forely ruffle;"

fo that to know a place from fuch a defcription of it, one muft behold it under the fame appearances, and with the fame impreffions as the describer.

The work before us, though an account written at leifure of regions haftily and incompletely traverfed, is however exempt from most of the im perfections to which we have juft alluded. The ftyle is, in general, elegant and correct, and the obfervations philofophical and judicious; fo that though we are feldom told what we have not feen or been told before, yet the repetition is neither ufeless nor unpleafing. Inftances, it is true, are not to be found

-" Of most difaftrous chances, "Of moving accidents by food and "field,

"Of hair-breadth 'scapes;'

but we find, instead, acute difcrimina tion of character, folid moral reflections, and a lively though a fimple narrative of events.

Mr. Owen apologizes in his Preface for any errors or redundancies, if fuck bould appear, by fuggefting that these Letters were written (for in this form the narrative appears) in the warmth of youthful impetuofity, and that it would have been a breach of tacit faith to introduce any further emendations, than thofe which are juftified by ufage and acknowledged licence. What limits ufage has affigned to critical correction, or why an author may not render his labours as perfect as he pleases, before he commits them to public fcrutiny, we profefs ourfelves unable to conjecture. We do not fay, nor indeed do we know, that these volumes could have been materially improved; but we know of no tacit engagement between an author and his readers, but that he should endeavour to render every page in his book worthy of the most critical and exact perufal.

Upon this fubje& Mr. O. acknowledges to have derived great affiftance from the fervices of W. Belham, Efq. to whom thefe Letters were originally addreffed, and "whofe judicious revifion they had the good fortune to receive." In revealing this circumstance, the Author adds, "that he is but difcharging a debt of gratitude to a man, of whofe character, while the public may reafonably differ, his friends can entertain but one opinion. The foundness of his judgment, and the accuracy of his tafte, werea fecurity to the author for the juftnefs of his corrections; and a friend. fhip of long and strict familiarity, undifturbed by the divisions of politics and

theology;

theology, have afforded him occafions of general improvement, which it is equally his duty and his pride to acknowledge."

The Book confifts of 199 Letters, of of which 83 are in the firft volume. The Author's account of them is, "That they are fhort, for the commodioufnefs of detached reading; and as they were in most inftances difpofed in packets containing a number, they were originally conftructed upon this concife model, in order to fupport the analogy of chapters in a regular journal." The countries visited were Auftrian Flanders, Holland, the North Western Border of Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Lyons, and fome part of the South of France; Vienna, Drefden, and Germany on the Eaft; Berlin and Potfdam in Pruffia, and Hamburgh and Rotterdam in the return to England. Thefe countries Mr. O. pourtrays with a rapid but difcriminating pencil; and bating his opinions with refpect to France, in which the has not exactly accomplished his fanguine predictions in her favour, he is not often mistaken in his judgment, either of individuals or of nations.

In the 27th Letter, dated from Spa, the Author tells us, that the fwampy foil of Holland, and the numerous nervous fevers which arofe from this circum. ftance, gave birth to those black patches upon each temple, which, by the fuperftition of ancient times, wire deemed fpecifics agaiaft nervous affections, ard are now become a part of the Dutch

drefs.

In the 42d Letter we have a very amufing account of a vifit made by Mr. O. to Ferney, the ancient refidence of Voltaire. It happened to be the commemoration of the French Revolution, and by a decree of the National Af fembly, the day was to be celebraced throughout France.

Mr. O. procured an English companion who, though ignorant of the French language, was defirous of being prefent at this feftival; and having placed feverally a cockade in their hats, they drove to Ferney.

The village wore a very gay ap pearance; all the inhabitants, and many from the environs, were parading in numerous parties, dreffed in all the trappings of their Sunday wardrobes. Having found with fome difficulty a

ftand for our whiskey and horse, we rea paired to a part of the town which, from the crouds affembled there, feemed to be the place of rendezvous. We paffed through many ranks of fpectators, and came to a large area, in the center of which was elevated the national standard, and the colours, infcribed with "Vivre libre, ou mourir,” were ftreaming in the air. This space was not inclofed with any fixed barriers, but preferved for the company by the National Guard, who acted alternately as centi. nels, and kept the line unbroken by the spectators.

Within this area were two long tables, very nearly filled with company, and two firaller ones, occupied by felect parties. At the head of the upper table fat the Commandant, and beside him the Lady Prefident. The reft were for the most part Officers of the Guard, or, what is the fame thing, Volunteers, for the duties and the ho nours are taken in rotation. I underftood from fome of the attendants, that we fould find no difficulty in being admitted to the table. I therefore ap plied to a very genteel man, who was doing the duty of a centinel, for per million to fit at the table. He affured me it would do them fingular honour. We therefore took our feats, and were ferved with fome refrethments on pay. ing our quota.

The attention of the company was fon drawn upon us; and thote nearest us at the table were folicitous to recom mend themfelves by drinking cur healths. A band of military mufic regaled us during dinner. This ended, proclamation was made for filence, and the Commandant delivered an address upon the important advantages of the Revolution. After commenting with fome warmth upon thefe, and recommeading, as effential to their continu ance, order and obedience to the con ftituted authority, he toafted the Magifrares, the National Affembly, &c. Every toaft was drank with loud acclamations, and accompanied with the music of fome popular air. When the Commandant had gone through the toalts of office, he demanded filence, and begged leave to drink, " à la fanté des Anglois, nos meilleures amis.' was received with the loudest bursts of applaufe. It was echoed from every quarter, and the mufic ftruck up Ca ha, which was fung by the greatest part of the

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the company. The nature of this toast turned the eyes of all upon us; and as my companion was not lingut enough to return the compliment,, I mounted the bench. *6 S.lace le plus profonde," was called for on all hands, and 1 pro claimed aloud A la finè des Francoye; juccés d'la no-evelle constitution, fon rée fur asprincipes eternelle, comme naturelles." This had its : mufic, Ihouts, and fangs expreffed their fenfe of gratitude. We were immediately handed by an Oficer to the upper table, prefented to the Lady Prefident, who invited us to the bail. Ten thoufand courtelies were now thown us. They threw to the ground the Burgundy we had pur chafed, and gave us in exchange fome of the first quality. They spoke in terms of the warmest regard of the English nation, whole.example they pretendad only to follow, and commerded that generofity which declined to take advantage of their pretent distractions. › "An Officer now hurried us away to drink coffee. I was glad of the oppor, tanity of being relieved from the fuperabundant civilities o the company. He conducted us to a houfe, where liqueurs, & were ferved up, and many patriotic fungs were fung by the different Officers. My friend, who was rather warmed by the Burgundy and liquears, than enlightened by the converfation, defired me to exprefs to thele Frenchmen the repeft he had for them. I jaterpreted bis intentions, and all thook hands with hy, thousing at the fame time," Bravo, leba Anglus!”. The liqueur was for cole, and the vivacity of the fongs animating; thefe had a mechanical effect upon the humours of my com pinion: ac defired me to affure thefe Frenchmen, that he loved liberty as much as they did, and that he had an etin England, but that he would wil gay fachance it all for the fake of liberty. I gain became his interpreter, and his hand was again demanded, with a repetition, in a till higher tone, of "Biave, le bon Anglois! The afterscan was indeed palfed in the greateft. hilarity, and without the leaft infringe, meat of decorum. Never did I fee men whofe air, converfation, and geflure discovered more happiness.They harangued, they danced, and omitted no poffible expreflon of gaiety. What particularly ftruck me in the midt of all this enthufiafm was, that VOL XXX. JULY 1796..

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not a term of reproach was ufed against the King; nor a fentiment of revenge breathed against thofe from whofe yoke they had to recently escaped. Their feelings feemed to be engroffed by the fingle confideration of their prefent felicity, and not an evil paffion was fuffered to difturb the ferenity of their pleafures. Upon the whole, no festival which had for its object the commemoration of fuch an event, could have been conducted with greater harmony, propriety, and good order."

That the Reader may not retire from the contemplation of this picture of Gallic felicity with impreffions in confitent with philofophical truth and moderation, we hail beg leave to prefent him, from the fecond volume of the fame Author, with its contrary, "Like a mildew'd ear, blafting his "wholefome brother."

Lyons, Sept. 10, 1792. "As the journals of my first days refidence have not yet found their way to the post, they will travel in com pany with a melancholy detail of crimes and bloodshed, which have inverted the peaceful picture of former ftatements, and filled my mind with agony and horror. The Captain with whom I heid converfation yesterday morning, in delivering his judgment upon the ftate of the city, had expreffed an apprehenfion which did not leave me wholly free from anxieties. only evil," faid he, "now to be dreaded is, that the people fhould rife, and maffacre thofe whom they confider as their enemies; and, in fact, advertifements have already iffued, inviting, in ambiguous terms,fuch a fort of infurrec. tion." Then conducting me through a part of the town with which I was not yet familiar, "Voila," said he, “le quartier des gens fufpe&tes."

"The

"I reported fo favourably of the general ftate of the town, upon my re turn from this excurfion, that the ladies were difpofed to vift the theatre; and it was in this fituation that we received the first intelligence of an actual infur rection, and acts of the most brutal cruelty already perpetrated. The Payfan Magiftrat, a piece profeffedly adapted to revolutionary feelings, was exhibited; and the applaufe which it produced from the audience, was evidently mixed with confiderable tumult."

F

The

The progrefs of the reprefentation was frequently interrupted by vociferous demands for "Ca Ira," and the Marfeilloife March." This laft is a furious war fong, the air of which, in a mili tary or theatrical band, is fingularly noble and impreffive. The words, which were fung by two foldiers at the burning of the pictures (an event related in the Letter preceding), are not a little fanguinary and vindictive. Thefe elamours did not exhibit the mot flattering fymptoms. Ladies were obferved quitting their boxes in fuccef. fion, and we began to fee ourselves nearly deferted. In the mean time, "The Petit Savoyards," which was the afterpiece, feemed to engage no part of the audience's attention, who were violent in their demand for the Marfeillois; which at length prevailed over every other movement. We judged it expedient now to withdraw; and found the fervant ready to acquaint us, with trembling accents, that a moh had affembled and beheaded feven officers, and that they were now bearing thefe heads in proceffion through the streets. The apprehenfion of meeting this inhuman proceffion was a fubject of cruel anxiety, till we arrived in the Place Belcourt.

parties were parading through different quarters, and vociferating "Five be Nation!

"I shall not intrude upon your fenfibility, by painting the fituation of my friends in the interval of two hours, which paffed between the time of our return to the hotel, and that of the mcb's proceffion. At eleven o'clock the tumult, which had hitherto been confutedly heard, became more diftin&tly audible; and the gradual increase of uproar feemed to announce fome change of scene. A few minutes only allowed us to conj.&ture, when the whole body of the mob entered the fquare. They formed a long, and, to appearance, a regular train, the foremost of which bore torches and pikes, upon the points of which laft were the trophies of their vengeance. This proceffion, I speedily learnt, was founded upon a new event: Thirteen priefts had been selected ont of two hundred who were confined, and it was the blood of thefe that now provoked their cannibal joy. Yells and groans accompanied their march through the fquare, and the very tone of their fhouts conveyed the expreffions of murder. It had appeared upon enquiry, that the officer on whom the first vengeance fell, had been apprehended in our hotel, a fortnight previous to this event; and the fir entrance of the mob into this quarter admitted of an interpretation, which did not tend to diminish the alarms for our fafety. The heads were, however, fufpended upon the trees, and the populace filed

Hotel de Ville. By this time fome active measures were taking by the Municipality, and a patrole of horse, between the hours of eleven and twelve, was fcouring the principal freets. A gradual caim enfued, and by two o'clock the danger feemed to have fubfided.

"Having escorted my charge to their apartments, and trimmed the lights, which the palpitating valet, who was an Auftrien, had ranged at the first call of the mob, I defcended, in order to inform myself of what had been acted in this bloody drama. It appears, that the populace were first excited to infur-off to their head-quarters before the rection by fome volunteers from Marfeilles; and that at about five o'clock they affembled and forced a guard. boufe, from which they dragged an officer of rank, who in company with fix others had been arrefted by the Municipality, upon fufpicion of correfponding with the enemy, and confined for trial. He plunged into the Saone in order to escape their fury; but they fired upon him, and having dragged him ashore, fruck off his head, and then executed the fame vengeance upon the remaining fix. By this time, nine o'clock, the mob had acquired confiderable ftrength, and were celebrating the most outrageous orgies before the Hotel de Ville, round the heads, which they had elevated upon a pole. All the freets were illuminated throughout the city, by order of the mob, and itraggling

The earliest hour of the morning was employed in deliberating upon the means of efcaping thote mitchiefs, of which what had already happened feemed only the precurfors. My enquiries concerning the neighbouring towns determined me not to hazard the fafety of my companions, by any other experi ment than that of withdrawing them entirely from a land devoted to popular phrenzy; and, therefore, my first measure was to fecure the grant of pafsports. For thefe it was neceffary that each fhould attend in perfon; and per

haps

haps a feverer trial of female fortitude people; every countenance was clothed has not often happened in ordinary life, with ferocity; every look feemed to than that of pathing through a populace meditate vengeance. Women were 1 intoxicated, as it were, with the blood washing, in the view of his window, of their fellow-creatures. Through their hands ftained with the blood of. fuch a populace it was neceffary to pafs, the unhappy victims. Our Author in order to enter the Hotel de Ville. wedt to examine, in the morning, the My entreaties-for this was the feafon trees upon which the heads had been of condefcenfion-could fcarcely fecure fufpended, and not perceiving them, the ladies a paffage, or protect them from afked an old woman who was among incivilities." Voila des Ariftocrats "the fpectators," Où font les tétes ** “On les a emporté," said the with per fect calmncís, et on eft allé chercher · d'autres."

46

was the mufic with which we were en tertained as we moved amongst them. I urged that they were des Angloifes, and that they were going to procure paff ports. Quelles s'en aillent," faid they, "ila'eft plus le temps pour les et angers." At this moment numbers were engaged in demolishing the ftatues, and other monuments which were to be found upon the afcent to the hall.

"The office for passports was crowd. ed with claimants, many of whom were rejected. A miferable being preferred his fuit to me, and requested that I would ufe my influence to obtain him a paport," en qualité de domeftique." But our affairs were too critical to admit of fuch an experiment; and it was not without confiderable difficulty, and an attendance of two hours, that cognitance was taken of our features, ftature, and deftination, and that our paff ports obtained the requifite fignatures. Thefe being at length effected, we returned to our hotel; and my next fubject of anxiety is to procure a conveyance. The enquiries I have hither to made have proved fruitless; the affrighted priests have engaged every carriage that was to be obtained; and I am going to fee, when I have fealed up this, whether any expedient can be de vifed for fecuring a fafe, if not an honourable retreat."

The two fubfequent Letters contain an interefting account of the perilous journey of our Author, and the Ladies under his escort, and of their arrival at laft at Geneva; together with fome further particulars of the maffacre at Lyons.

It appeared, that the young officer who was the first victim of the fury of the populace, was a colonel of the regulars, a man of fine perfon and engaging manhers, and only two-and-twenty years of age. Mr. O. remarked, that as he walked along the streets he faw no remaining traces of that urbanity, which once diftinguished the manners of this

Twice was our Author and his fair fellow traveller ftopped in their progrefs towards the confines of France. At fome diftance from Nantua a foldier drew his fabre, and, approaching the carriage, demanded the object of their travelling. The paffports were offered him; but on thefe he fet no value, and vowed that his blood fhould not be thed for those who deferted the country. On being told that the travellers were English, his friends and allies, he feemed a little foothed, theathed his fabre, and requested the Author's hand; a fervice which Mr. O. was conftrained alfo to undergo with all his associates.

A fhort interruption alto occurred at the point of crolling the boundaries; where an officer was preparing to in fpe&t the carriage in quet of arms. He was afked, whether that was the best method of fhewing his respect for the English. Monfieur eft Angloise ?" interrupted he haftily, defcended from the ftep of the carriage, clofed the door, and withed them a bon voyage.

64

Our Author feems to have quitted the French frontier with very different political fentiments from thofe with which he croffed it at his arrival; and we congratulate both him and the public on this change in his opinion. If ever an unqualified Antigallican fpirit was confiftent with truth and with philofophy, it is at this momentous crifis, when the lawiefs violence of French principles is rendered trebly formidable by the almost miraculous power of their arms; leaving no choice to the true patriot, in the countries their tyranny has invaded, except an honourable death.

We have employed fo much of our paper in felecting from thefe volumes what appeared more particularly important at the prefent juncture, that we have left no room for fome very F2 judicious

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