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established there. In many respects it has pursued a policy parallel to that of the Deutsche Bank, both in domestic finance and overseas business, the latter being initiated in 1892 by the absorption of a branch in Hamburg, followed in 1895 by a branch in Bremen and in 1901 in London. In all, the Dresdner Bank had (beginning of 1909) 27 branches, all, with the exception of the one in London, being located in Germany. In addition it has one Commandite and 57 deposit offices, 23 being in Berlin. foreign business is carried on through subsidiaries in China, Japan, Italy, Switzerland, Turkey, Greece, Egypt, Morocco, Argentina, Mexico and Canada, and in 1905 a close alliance was formed with the banking house of J. P. Morgan & Co., New York, for joint action in international finance and issue operations, particularly the absorption of American securities by German investors. Operations in the Orient and South America have been carried on jointly in co-operation with the A. Schaaffhausen'scher Bankverein. Between 1872 and 1909-10, important German banks and banking firms having numerous branches throughout Germany were absorbed by the Dresdner Bank. Important among these was the Deutsche Genossenschaftbank (Bank for Co-operative Credit Societies), Sörgel, Parrisius & Co., of Berlin and Frankfort-on-the-Main, closely identified with German industrial and agricultural co-operative societies. A special department of the Dresdner Bank is also concerned with the fostering of these interests. In addition, in 1904, jointly with the A. Schaaffhausen'scher Bankverein, the banking house of Von Erlanger & Söhne of Frankfort-on-theMain was absorbed, this latter having 8 branches and 97 agencies, besides community-ofinterest connections with 2 banks having 52 agencies. In addition, through board supervision or stock control, 12 other important banks with numerous branches and agencies are included within the Dresdner Bank group. The relations of the Dresdner Bank to the industrial life of Germany are indicated by the fact that at the beginning of 1909 representation was had on the boards of 87 other important industrial and financial organizations. In 1908 the capital was 180,000,000 marks (increased in 1910 to 200,000,000 marks), surplus 51,500,000 marks and dividend 72 per cent. The total capital

power of the Dresdner Bank group in the same year amounted to 283,942,419 marks, of which 227,680,000 constituted the capital and 56,262,419 marks the surplus. Consult Riesser, Dr. J., 'Die Deutsche Grossbanken und ihre Konzentration (1909); 'Germany's Economic Forces' (1913); Report on Cooperation in American Export Trade (Washington 1916).

DRESS, the clothing or apparel of the human body. Under this title will be considered the principles underlying the wearing of clothes rather than the minute details of their shape and color, which will be found treated under COSTUME. The evolution of dress has always been associated with the growth and decline of nations and therefore sheds much light on racial characteristics. In the earliest stage of human history dress must of course have been strictly utilitarian, consisting only of the covering necessary to protect the body against the extreme conditions of climate and temperature. With

many uncivilized tribes this conception of the function of clothes still survives.

With the dawn of civilization another utilitarian function is assumed by clothes. Clothing becomes a means of indicating distinctions of rank and office in the community. The minimum of clothing is found among slaves and the lowest classes in general, while garments even more massive and extensive than either climatic conditions or considerations of modesty prescribed come to be worn by those in the higher ranks. Next, a purely decorative motive, which undoubtedly has its source in personal vanity, came to supplement the two more utilitarian ones just mentioned. With some uncivilized or semi-civilized peoples this is by far the strongest and frequently the only motive for the wearing of such scant vestments as neither cover nor protect the body. That personal vanity underlies the use of clothes quite as much as considerations of modesty and temperature even among civilized peoples is a view held by many authoritative scientists.

The Assyrians covered themselves entirely with heavy draperies, stiff with embroidery. The Egyptians, of whose dress we have the earliest records, clothed themselves in thin materials which revealed the lines of the body and frequently left even the limbs exposed. Their dress was rich in texture and splendid in coloring, the designs of their textile fabrics being of high artistic excellence and beauty. Class distinctions were very strongly emphasized in the dress of the Egytians. A peculiar feature of their priestly garb was the leopard-skin worn on solemn sacrificial occasions. The Egyptian women of rank wore beautiful embroidered skirts secured at the waist by a colored sash, or suspended by straps from the shoulders, and over this a long, loose robe. The laboring class used woolen fabrics, but their costumes, especially when at work, consisted as a rule simply of a loin-cloth and girdle. Among the Chinese the predominating idea of dress has always been splendor of material and decoration. The intense conservatism of this race is nowhere better shown than in the almost complete sameness of dress from earliest times to the present day. That, as a general rule, progress in civilization—and especially a sudden leap in this direction makes for radical dress reform, is well illustrated in the case of the modern Japanese. For a long time the figure was merely draped in loose lengths of material, with no attempt at conforming to the lines of the body or limbs though sleeves and trousers are occasionally observed, as in the Persian sculptures at Persepolis. The primitive sandal was evidently thought to afford all necessary protection to the foot, until the time of Assur-bani-pal, or Sardanapalus, when soldiers and hunters appear to have worn a sort of net to protect their legs and boots or gaiters somewhat like the Greek and Roman cothurnus, laced in front. Save as official costumery, hats and caps were little worn in early times. Even in the time of Julius Cæsar they were little used except by travelers, most people preferring a fold of the toga or mantle for a head covering. Among the Greeks and Romans the division of classes and professions by dress were very striking. By the Greeks the artistic effect was carried to a height

hitherto unknown, their garments being the perfection of grace and dignified elegance. At no other time has a nation's dress offered such great advantages to the artist. The Greek chiton and himation of about 450-350 B.C. were the highest type of loose clothing, while the highest type of the more tightly fitting costume was found in England and France in 1350. The costumes of western Europe during the last quarter of the 14th and the first of the 15th century were characterized by a beautiful reasonableness and adaptation at once to use and artistic effect. But there have been other periods in which the exaggeration of good sartorial points led to utter absurdities and demoralization. After the Norman Conquest, which introduced into England, among other unsalutary features, numerous ugly changes in dress, eccentricities in headgear were especially prevalent. In the 17th century shoes grew so small and pointed that they were an encumbrance to the wearer and had to be hooked up by their projecting tips to make walking possible. Small waists were considered quite as essential for men as for women. Even as late as the reign of George III, English tailors advertised corsets for gentlemen. The modern tendency in dress, as in many other things, is decidedly democratic-a tendency toward the complete elimination of differences in dress as marks of social or other distinction. The dress reform movement inaugurated in the 19th century and the greater attention paid to hygienic considerations have resulted in making women more solicitous about the health and comfort of the body than they have been for many centuries previous. Extravagance in dress has always been a mark for social and religious reformers. Both in France and in England, especially during the Puritan period in the latter country, preachers thundered from many a pulpit against the senseless fashions of their tirnes. Sumptuary legislation has attempted time and time again to regulate it, but usually without success. In England, particularly under the Tudors, considerable drastic legislation was enacted on the subject of dress. Beginning as early as 1463 and taking on a most mandatory form in 1510, when "An Act against wearing of costly Apparel" was passed, such legislation was re-enacted, or re-enforced, again and again, taking a different - usually a more stringent form from time to time. But, custom proving stronger than legislation, the people constantly overstepped the bounds of dress laws, with the result that all such legislation was finally repealed in England in 1604, a century before such action was taken in other countries. There are two satirical literary treatments of this aspect of dress which are especially famous, that of Swift in the Tale of a Tub,' and that of Carlyle in 'Sartor Resartus.'

Bibliography. Most of the literature on the subject is in the form of magazine articles. The following works treat of dress, specifically or generally: Earle, "Two Centuries of Costume in America) (2 vols., New York 1904); Evans, 'Chapters on Greek Dress' (London 1893); Farnsworth, The Art and Ethics of Dress (1915); Fox, 'Fashion: the power that influences the World. The Philosophy of Ancient and Modern Dress and Fashion' (New York 1872); Hill, 'History of English Dress'

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DRESS REFORM, a movement of the 19th century, having for its aim the modification of the dress of women along hygienic lines chiefly, but also with regard to comfort and convenience. Many articles of feminine apparel had long been operating against the health of the wearers and the injurious effects had been recognized and more or less frankly discussed in private circles before leaders were found with sufficient earnestness and courage to make organized efforts for reform. So far as the United States is concerned dress reform may be said to date from 1851, when Amelia Bloomer published some articles in favor of freer dress. for women in her paper called The Lily. few years before the Civil War (in 1857) a National Dress Association was started, but made little headway. It was not until a similar society was organized in Boston in 1874 that attempts of this nature began to bear any fruit. Several causes seem to have contributed to making the time more propitious for an active propaganda against tight-lacing, high-heeled and cramping foot-wear, trailing garments, etc. The greater attention paid to physiology in schools dispelled to some extent the ignorance which had been a partial excuse for unhygienic methods of dress. The increasing number of women receiving a college education ensured for the new ideas an audience with minds too liberal and judgments too sound to be rigidly fettered by conventionality and fashion. third factor not to be disregarded was the firm attitude of physicians. Prevention of disease and the development of normal conditions was becoming the watchword where formerly curative measures had been emphasized. The cooperation of the medical fraternity by lectures, periodical literature and personal influence should receive due credit for the progress of dress reform. Such co-operation was a marked feature of the movement inaugurated in Boston. As the century drew to a close conditions became still more favorable. The prominence given to bacteriology associated in innumerable minds the trailing skirt with germ-transportation. The investigation, too, into the relative values of the different fabrics-cotton, linen, silk and wool-as material for underwear (a discussion in which Germany took a notable part) was very timely. It called attention to the lamentable lack of judgment exhibited by many persons, especially women, in protecting themselves by suitable under garments against the changes of the season, and especially the sudden variations of the American climate. The adoption of outer garments suitable for wet weather was undoubtedly hastened by the vogue of the bicycle skirt, which accustomed the eye to a style of garment once attracting unfavorable comment or at least unwelcome observation. Rainy-day clubs, formed in many cities, have done their share toward the introduction of the short skirt. The fact that a great number of women are now daily going to business has also

greatly promoted the movement of rational clothes for women. To athletics, too, woman's dress reform is deeply indebted. The present popularity of out-of-door exercise and sport for women and the general interest taken in physical culture have inevitably tended to modify the form of women's garments.

The practice of lacing, with its vicious results of molding the feminine form into abnormal lines and crowding the vital organs into disease-promoting states, still persists among women who place less value on health and bodily comfort than on outward appearance and unnatural "grace." Yet on the whole, the movement toward rational raiment for women making steady if seemingly slow progress on both sides of the Atlantic. Esthetic considerations had little effect upon the earliest dressreformers such as Mrs. Amelia Bloomer and a few women suffragists who first braved public opinion by a radical change of costume. The Turkish trousers and very short skirt adopted by Mrs. Bloomer did not invite imitation; but later phases of reform, both in England and in America, have aimed at grace and beauty as well as health and comfort in the style of garments advocated. In the United States Mrs. Annie Jenness-Miller has been a prominent exponent of the more artistic aspect of the subject. Very near the time of the establishment in this country of the second National Dress Association an attempt was made by the crown-princess of Saxony to awaken her fellow countrywomen to the importance of dressreform, the hygienic side of the question being most prominent in that effort. Under the leadership of Lady Harberton, president of the Rational Dress Association, the dress reform movement assumed a somewhat different direction than that associated with Mrs. JennessMiller. To retain the natural beauty of the human form and succeed in its harmonious appareling were the aims of some of the dress reformers. There was, however, side by side with this movement one having a utilitarian trend. This was allied to the German movement in favor of more hygienic garments; the combination of lightness and warmth in the material used being a great desideratum. Organized effort along the line of dress reform in England has resulted in the formation of the Rational Dress Association just mentioned and the National Health Dress Association. There is also a society having for one of its aims a change in the customary mourning apparel. Outside of Germany and England little interest has as yet been taken in Europe in the subject of dress reform, although a certain Russian Minister of Education tried in vain to prohibit corsets. Consult Bloomer, The Life and Writings of Amelia Bloomer' (Boston 1895); Godwin, Dress and Its Relation to Health and Climate (London 1884); Harbeis, The Art of Dress' (ib. 1881); Woolson, 'Dress Reform' (Boston 1874). See DRESS; COSTUME; FASHION.

DRESS SHIP, nautical term signifying the decoration or ornamentation of a ship with flags. It is done on national holidays or on some special occasion. There are many forms and degrees, according to the importance of the occasion or of the personage to be honored. Hoisting the national colors at the mastheads and at the peak is, perhaps, the simplest form of

dressing a ship. Additional flags, usually those of the signal code, are hoisted to full-dress a ship. The ordinary method is to arrange the flags in a line from the water forward, up the forward stay between the mastheads to the peak and thence over the stern. At the stern and prow weighted lines are dropped to which the flags are attached. When doing honor to a foreign nation the latter's colors are run to the head of the main mast. When more than one country is represented by its colors all must be given posts of honor and none placed in a position of inferiority to another. In naval vessels the flags of the navy signal code and of the international signal code are used jointly. During the Hudson-Fulton celebration in New York in 1909 the American and visiting foreign naval vessels were dressed with electric lights, arranged to outline the hull and superstructure when illuminated.

DRESSER, Henry Ecles, English ornithologist: b. Thirsk, Yorkshire, 9 May 1838. He is best known by his 'History of the Birds of Europe' in eight volumes (1871-81).

DRESSER, Horatio Willis, American author: b. Yarmouth, Me., 15 Jan. 1866. He was educated in Denver, Colo., and at Boston; was appointed assistant in philosophy, Harvard University, 1902-11; professor of philosophy, Ursinus College, 1911-12. Since 1893 he has lectured and written extensively on practical philosophy and metaphysics, and he edited and published the Journal of Practical Metaphysics 1896-98; but it must be pointed out that these terms as used by him and his school of thought have meanings entirely different from those in which they have hitherto been used and are generally understood. He edited The Higher Law 1899-1902, and is the author of "The Power of Silence (1895); "The Perfect Whole' (1896); 'In Search of a Soul' (1897)

Voices of Hope (1898); Methods and Problems of Spiritual Healing) (1899); 'Education and the Philosophical Ideal' (1900); "Voices of Freedom' (1899); Living by the Spirit (1900); The Christ Ideal' (1901); A Book of Secrets' (1902); Man and the Divine Order (1903); Health and the Inner Life' (1906); The Greatest Truth) (1907); (A Physician to the Soul' (1908); 'The Philosophy of the Spirit) (1908); A Message to the Well' (1910); Human Efficiency (1912); The Religion of the Spirit in Modern Life' (1914).

DREUX, drė (ancient Duroscassa), France, one of the oldest towns on the Blaise, 20 miles north-northwest of Chartres. It has a number of churches and other buildings of the 11th, 12th and 13th centuries. It has foundries. and manufactures cloth, leather and glass and trades in sheep and cattle. In Roman times it was called Durocassis or Drocæ and was also important under the Gauls. Here the Duc de Guise defeated the Huguenots and captured the Prince of Condé in 1562. The Germans took the town in 1870. Pop. 10,500.

DREVET, dre'va', French family of engravers. (1) PIERRE: b. Saint Colombe, near Lyons, 1664; d. Paris 1739. He studied at Lyons, and at Paris with Audran and Rigaud. In 1696 he became court engraver and was elected to the Academy in 1707. He left more than 100 plates, of which the recognized master

piece is 'Louis XIV (1712). He was particularly successful in the engraving of portraits. (2) PIERRE IMBERT, his son: b. Paris 1697; d. there 1739. He studied with his father, but surpassed him in art. He, too, was most successful in portrait work, one of his best pieces being a portrait of Bossuet after Rigaud; he also copied the works of Coypel, Restout, Andray and other French painters of the time. He succeeded his father as court engraver and they executed many works together. (3) CLAUDE, the nephew of Pierre Imbert: b. Lyons 1710; d. Paris 1782. He was a pupil of his uncle and copied his style without equaling his art. Consult Firmin-Didot, 'Les Drevets' (Paris 1876).

DREW, Daniel, American capitalist: b. Carmel, N. Y., 29 July 1797; d. New York, 19 Sept. 1879. In early life he was a cattle drover and dealer and was subsequently prominent as a steamboat builder, but was most widely known from his connection with railroads and as a leading stock speculator in Wall Street. The failure of Kenyon, Cox & Co. caused the loss of his great fortune, which at one time amounted to about $15,000,000. He was the founder of the Drew Ladies' Seminary at Carmel and the Drew Theological Seminary (q.v.) at Madison, N. J. He also gave large sums of money to various Methodist colleges and schools. Consult White, Bouck, 'The Book of Daniel Drew' (New York 1910).

DREW, John, American actor: b. Philadelphia, 13 Nov. 1853. In 1873 he first appeared at his father's theatre in Philadelphia, then under his mother's management. For the next six years he played with the popular stars of that day, including Edwin Booth and Fanny Davenport. In 1879 he appeared as leading man in the all-star company of Augustine Daly, at Daly's Theatre, New York. His most noteworthy successes there were as Petruchio in The Taming of the Shrew,' and as Charles Surface in Sheridan's 'School for Scandal.' He appeared also in the classic revivals and in original productions of Mr. Daly. He visited Europe in 1892 with Daly's Company, playing classic rôles, and began his starring tours in the autumn of 1892, playing in 'The Masked Ball,' 'The Butterflies, A Marriage of Convenience, 'One Summer's Day,' 'The Liars,' 'Richard Carvel,' 'His House in Order,' 'Inconstant George Much Ado about Nothing,' 'The Tyranny of Tears' and 'The Will.' John Drew is the best living interpreter of a certain type of character common in high society in America. In 1901 he appeared in a revival of 'The Second in Command. Consult Strang, Famous Actors of the Day (Boston 1900); Moses, (Famous Actor-Families in America (New York 1906); Winter, 'Wallet of Time) (2 vols., New York 1913).

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DREW, John, American comedian: b. Dublin, Ireland, 3 Sept. 1825; d. Philadelphia, Pa., 21 May 1862. He made his first appearance at the Bowery Theatre, New York, in 1845, and later became manager, in connection with William Wheatley, of the Arch Street Theatre in Philadelphia. He acted in the principal cities of the United States, England and Australia.

DREW THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY, in Madison, N. J., an educational institution founded by the Methodist Episcopal Church for

the education and training of its ministers. Daniel Drew donated the ground and buildings. Three years suffice to cover the prescribed courses, which in addition to special training in theology, etc., also cover a wide range of secülar subjects in order to provide ministers of broad minds and of good general education. The degree of B.D. is conferred on students who already hold an academic degree, and the degree of doctor in theology is conferred on students who take the advanced courses prescribed for this degree. Tuition is free, and arrangements have been made whereby the cost of student life is most moderate. There are eight buildings altogether, which with the grounds are valued at about $725,000. The productive endowment funds total over $1,000,000. The seminary is provided with an excellent library of 126,000 volumes and 140,000 pamphlets. The enrolment of students in 1916 was 171, and there were 16 instructors.

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DREWRY'S BLUFF, Battle of. When General Grant began his campaign for Richmond in May 1864, General Butler, commanding the Army of the James, was directed to be well up James River toward Richmond by daylight of the 5th and to push ahead with all energy. By the 6th Butler had reached and entrenched at Bermuda Hundred Neck. Kautz's cavalry division, moving from Suffolk, destroyed several bridges on the Norfolk and Petersburg and Weldon railroads and joined Butler on the 10th. On the 9th Butler advanced with the greater part of his force to strike the railroad connecting Richmond and Petersburg, but his advance was barred by Swift Creek, which was found impassable and its bridges heavily guarded, upon which he ordered his troops to withdraw to their entrenchments; but the withdrawal was not effected without an attack by the Confederates on a detachment of the 10th Corps, in which the loss was severe on both sides. Butler's advance was barred by strong works Drewry's Bluff on the right bank of the river, eight miles below Richmond. The works could not be reached by the navy, and on the land side the Bluff was defended by 22,000 infantry and over 2,000 cavalry, field artillery and heavy guns. On the 12th General Butler moved along the turnpike and after some fighting the Confederates fell back toward Drewry's Bluff. On the 15th there was heavy all-day skirmishing and some artillery firing, and General Beauregard issued orders for an attack next morning to cut Butler off from Bermuda Hundred and capture or destroy his army. The attack was made very early in the morning under cover of a dense fog; the right of Butler's line was turned and a large number of prisoners taken, compelling it to fall back a short distance. On the left Butler's line held its ground and made some progress, but toward evening Butler ordered his troops to fall back and at night they were in the entrenchments at Bermuda Hundred. Beauregard followed and entrenched in front of Butler's lines. As General Smith says, "Both corps re-entered the historic bottle, which was at once carefully corked by a Confederate earthwork." On the 20th Beauregard assaulted and carried some of Butler's advanced lines and a sharp fight ensued to regain them, which was only partially successful, a portion of them being retaken by Howell's brigade of the 10th Corps,