masses of black lava, partially covered with patches of grass, while before us were small huts. Beyond, flowing in harmonious swells, were mountains, crowned with graceful foliage; and far beyond stretched Lake Managua, gemmed with islands, gleaming like a huge burnished mirror. We descended to a position of safety, and gazed far down the depth of the crater, where we saw a variety of uncouth, red-painted figures, concerning which I had no time to gather any thing, and probably saved my labor, for queries are to but little purpose in Nicaragua. "Quien sabe ?"-Who knows?—is a fit companion for the everlasting "Poco tiempo ;" and between the two you derive as little satisfaction as from any sources imaginable. There is said to exist here the remains of an Indian temple. If it does, I did not see it; but I found an arched cave, which, to an inexperienced eye, aided by a fertile and superstitious imagination, might prove a temple as well as any thing else. The choice is altogether a matter of taste, and I suppose the inhabitants delight in believing that which tradition has handed to them.

There are various other lakes in the neighborhood of the city, all of volcanic formation and origin. The Salt Lake is one of them, the water being brackish. The descent to it is steep, and overgrown with underbrush and briers. Another, the name of which I cannot recall, is reached by a path margined with cacti. The water is very cool, the sun is felt but 'ittle,

r

MANAGUA AS IT WAS AND IS.

105 and it is the favorite resort of the washer-women of the city Managua, in ancient times, after the expedition of Cordova, was said to be nine miles long, contained forty thousand inhabitants, and the country generally might be said to swarm with population. It is now a quiet place, celebrated only for its neighboring lakes, a few old statues, and for the exceeding grace of its nut-brown señoritas.

CHAPTER XI.

MANAGUA-ITS INHABITANTS-SERVILES AND LIBERALS-HISTORICAL INTERLUDES-EDUCATION-THE FATHERS OF ELD-BIGOTRY-ECCLESIASTICS-AN ANCIENT CARVING-PADRE VIGIL-RELIGOUS CEREMONIES-THE INDIANSSQUIER'S ASSERTIONS RELATIVE TO THE MOSQUITO INDIANS-HISTORY AGAIN -IDEAS ABOUT MIGRATION—ANTIQUE STONES (PIEDRAS ANTIGUAS)—THE CONFESSORS OF THE CONQUEST.

MANAGUA is the seat of the meeting of the Legislature. Its inhabitants are deemed stanch and loyal citizens; and there being continual jealousies and strifes between Leon and Granada, here, on neutral ground, the opposing cliques eventually meet, arrayed in the "panoply of war," to battle, fortune deciding in turns for either party. These intestine broils are waged with acrimony; families are arrayed against their own; kin forget, or forsake kindred ties, and bury in the preparation for strife every ancient feeling of love and reciprocal friendship. Events of long standing are causes for animosities,

THE SERVILES AND LIBERALS.

107

which only require a breath to fan into a flame. The embers of discord are smouldering, a blaze arises, intercourse ceases, appeals to arms ensue, and the already poverty-enfeebled country groans under new taxes and fresh imposts. The Englishman, too, has been busy, sowing the seed of dissension, that he might reap a golden harvest; and in its troubles he fattens upon the vitals of the helmless State.

There are two factions, viz., the Serviles-the aristocrats or monarchists and the Liberals or Republicans. Prior to the independence of Nicaragua from her confederated articles with Honduras, Costa Rica, and other states, the Serviles favored a monarchy, of which the Emperor of Mexico was to have been the head. The Liberals of Guatemala and Nicaragua united and opposed these suicidal schemes, and lost or gained, at different times, till in 1829, Gen. Morazan discovering that the church was intriguing also against liberal views, seized the prelate and marched him out of the country, forbidding his return, under penalty of death. Monks and friars were summarily expelled. The convents and monasteries were consequently deserted; and the State of Guatemala passed a decree forbidding the "taking of the veil," suppressing monastic establishments, and confiscating to the State's support these wealthy garners of exclusive church monopolies. Papal bulls were not permitted to be promulgated; church dignitaries were to be appointed by the President of the Republic, and

the sale of papal dispensations proceeded from the Federal

Government.

Honduras legalized the marriages of the priests, and legitimated the children resulting from their union. The confederacy dissolved, and the Serviles being in the ascendency, convents were reopened in Guatemala; but the other States. maintained their prohibitions. The taxes upon property have greatly enriched the church coffers notwithstanding. These liens accumulated rapidly, and encumbered the largest estates of the country; but the Legislature of Nicaragua, in 1850, abolished ten per cent. of these, except such as were applied to education.

Nicaragua and Costa Rica constitute one Diocess, dating back to 1526. Education is at a low ebb. On the outskirts

of Masaya, to the left, we passed an adobe school-house. I peeped in and saw about sixty muchachos and muchachitas busily engaged in poring over their books. They recite in one class, and sing their lessons. The rod is known here, too, and is measured by no stingy rule; but how to detect, in such an universal method of recitation, the delinquent student, I could not arrive at; but suppose the ear becomes accustomed to the scholastic melodies, and readily discovers a false note, or an inharmonious tone. Mr. Squier's correspondent observes, that "in the University of Granada, are taught the following branches: Latin and Spanish grammar; Philosophy,