Slike strani
PDF
ePub

obviated. It is the work of General Muñoz, who has achieved and deserves great credit for the consummation thereof.

The country spreads before us, refreshingly lovely. The ridge is steep, and the road winding over it very narrow. About half way up, to the right, a wall of masonry guards the traveler from a summersault down a frightful precipice, should his mule stumble; while, on the left, a ridge of apparently loose rocks line the perpendicular immensity overhead. Should horsemen meet in this canalled ravine, there would be some difficulty in passing; and how laden mules would accomplish this I cannot determine, save where the muleteer could find a niche by the way-side, in which he might temporarily house his animal. This wall is not remarkably durable; and there are, at spaces, huge rocks remaining, which are so perfectly balanced that it seemed to us a slight effort on the part of one man would send them thundering down the abyss. This, however, upon trial, we found required our united efforts. After much struggling, we detached a fragment, which swept with the noise of the broadside of a frigate down the craggy depth, crushing the young palm and the tender saplings. A myriad echoes came reverberating from glen, through cove, from rock to rock, from chasm to chasm, till in the far distance a low rumbling faintly told us of the onward rolling of our messenger. Glimpses of a beautiful outlined country are caught through

THE MOUNTAIN PASS WAY.

125

detached groups of distant forests, and the calmly sleeping Lake creeps on the landscape, with its silvery bosom.

The scene on our right, now that we have reached the summit, is immensely grand. Upon the left we mark the serpentine road, creeping over the hills, and threading its course through level stretches, and again lost in a copse of gigantic trees. Upon the extreme right, the picture is framed by outlined eminences; while on the rear, or toward the point of our offset, the forests, vales, and flowering cacti, are margined by the silver setting of Lake Managua. The view repays us for having chosen this mountain passage-way-tinkling bells come swelling gently up from a few straggling mules, laden with corn and fodder. We hasten from the narrow summitdefile, and pass on to the base of the ridge, once more halting 'neath the cool shade of a gigantic Cebia.

Our road is now apparently an easy one, and we jog along at a quiet pace, descrying a few huts ahead, where we will refresh selves and mules, although we have ridden scarce two leagues. Here we are already observed by the outposts, and not knowing whether we will be permitted to pass quietly, inasmuch as our "passport" bears the signet of the General of the opposing faction. There are rumors also floating of Americans having joined the enemy, and consequently we prepare to defend ourselves, and break, if necessary, the blockade. ahead.

CHAPTER XIII.

MATEARES-POPULATION-APPEARANCE-THE HOUSE OF OUR HOST-OUR EXIT -OUR PASS-LAKE MANAGUA-A HOT SUN AND AN INFERNAL ROADA HUT AT HAND-A FRIEND IN NEED-A STREAM-A HALT-A BATH-NAGAROTE-A POSADA-THE LAND-HOST AND HOSTESS-MUSQUITOES—ATTEMPT TO SLEEP-FARE—FRIJOLES, TORTILLAS, AND Aguardiente-PLEASANT RIDE, AND AN EARLY START-BEAUTIFUL APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY-DEERROADS-FIELDS OF MAIZE-SUNRISE-COCOA-NUTS-PALMS AND CALABASHES -CANE HUTS AND TRIM GARDENS-FINE CACTUS-PUEBLO NUEVO, AND A POSADA OUR MEAL-BEYOND THE VILLAGE-FEATURES OF THE COUNTRYSOIL AND TIMBER-THE PLAIN OF LEON-DITCHES-HUTS-NINE VOLCANOES -GLIMPSE OF THE CATHEDRAL-GUADELUPE-CITY IN THE DISTANCEEVIDENCES OF AN ANTICIPATED SALLY ON OUR ENTRANCE-OUR POSADAOUP OF CACAO-INHABITANTS-LEGACIES OF THE CONQUERORS—THE TROOPS

-DRAGOONS-RAINY SEASON-OUR HOST.

WE reached the paltry village of Mateares, at the junction of several roads, which in the United States would have borne the title of Mateares cross-roads. It comprises a few huts, and a rather respectable cuartel. The expectations of travelers

MATEARES AND THE HOUSE OF OUR HOST.

127

are not disappointed by the aspect of the place, for it has as little to recommend it as could be found anywhere; while the fare at exorbitant prices corresponds. The people seem to be an intermediate race between the lowest of the Indians in the southern portions of the State, and the imported negro. The population is probably less than one hundred; their occupation any thing which may turn up, from the courier to the assassin; and I am told, that during the frequent visits of the freebooters, in past days, to the State, a plentiful supply of villains could always be relied upon at a moment's notice from this village. Our guide whispered in my ear, to look out for our animals and purses, as the "whole breed were bad, very bad, and the government assassins were all quartered here." The village is hidden for the most part in palm, banana, orange and lemon groves; after a stroll through the dense thickets about the place, I entered the house of our host. Arms were stacked around everywhere; and I really think the natives I met, were the most abandoned-looking set that ever graced the decks of a piratical craft.

We resumed our saddles after a dinner of hard-boiled eggs, corn-cakes, and bad water, tempered bountifully with aguardiente, and without a regret, left the place at a fast gallop, by a road to the right which led down a hill, and thence upon a plain of some extent covered with trees. Here, as we emerged from the hot sun into the cool shade of over

arching palms, we observed a barrier ahead, and upon the left hand a hut of recent erection, in front of which a strong detachment of soldiers were drawn. We halted, handed to the superior officer our passport, and after many delays were permitted to advance. Beyond this post, we were in the country of the enemy, and we learned that detachments of the opposing parties had met a few miles beyond this in the morning, where a sharp conflict had ensued, in which the Grenadinos lost two men. Vigilance was therefore necessary.

Passing through a copse, we found Lake Managua upon our right, while bare cliffs ran up abruptly on the left. The road was pebbled with colored stones, and the shores of the Lake covered with cranes and ducks, while overhead winged the gaudy parrots and the brilliantly-plumed macaws, mirroring back, resplendently, the fierce rays of the noon sun, which now in full force fell upon us. The heat was indeed intense; the reflection from the vast sheet beside us, and the rocks upon our left, penetrated by the hot, burning glare, only served to increase our uncomfortableness, as we turned in vain from side to side to escape the broiling, or to gain a moment's relief. The road was very sandy as we passed through clusters. of a species of thorny or prickly willow, and really I deemed this place could be more distinctly named "a hell," than the "Infierno de Masaya." Upon the left hand, amid a cluster of trees, we observed a thin wreath of smoke slowly rising, and

« PrejšnjaNaprej »