slight ascent before us, we entered the village of Pueblo Nuevo, and sought a posada, where, after a ride of five leagues, we were glad to rest, ere pushing on to Leon. We had accomplished the worst portion of the journey; the rough country was behind, and the fertile plain of Leon before us, covered with forests, through which we determined to travel. at our ease, for the day was yet young, and we had no inducement to hasten. Our old friends, chickens, beans, corn-cakes, and tiste, were before us, and we did ample justice to the outspread meal.

The road beyond Pueblo Nuevo is broad and smooth, lined with palm and odoriferous trees. The country assumed the features of having been at one time well cultivated; the forests are far from virginal, and the soil is probably of a more loamy character than any we have yet observed. We are now twenty-four miles from Leon. Ascending a hill some few miles from our point of starting, through occasional breaks in the forest, volcanoes loom up in the distance, broad fields of grass sweep to the outlined mountains, while clumps of the stately palm rise up like landmarks on the vast plain of Leon before us. There is nothing to interrupt the view. The country is all cleared, the road perfectly level, and on either hand are well-made ditches, verifying the suggestion that, at one time, the soil has been cultivated. Numerous huts are seen, and during the warm afternoon you gladly seek therein shelter

LEON, THE RIVAL OF GRANADA.

135

from the sun, or refresh yourself, after a long ride over a waterless road. Nine volcanoes margin and dot this magnificent plain, among which the most prominent are Viejo, Telica, Momotombo, and Orota.

We rode on, the towers of the Cathedral gleaming not far distant, and our desire to visit the rival of Granada, and learn the particulars of the current Revolution, stimulated us to renewed efforts. Passing through the Indian suburb of Guadelupe, we descended a ravine, and emerged upon a broad, paved street into the city of Leon. Everywhere, as in

After a few halts,

Managua, we met detachments of troops. and passing numerous barricades, we entered upon the plaza, where at least two thousand soldiers were training and lounging, and where we found evidences in preparation of an anticipated sally upon the enemy. We hastened to the posada, and, after a cup of cacao, received the many friends. who thronged to welcome us, and subsequently paid our respects to the American Minister.

The inhabitants differ from those in the Southern Department, being lighter in color, more dignified, and more like the Hidalgos of old Spain. There is, in Leon, an aristocratical air, a settled aversion to Granada, and a distinct selfishness of belief in the superiority of their city, which surprised me. I had never expected to find such nice, invidious distinctions. drawn in this part of the world; yet I found, during my stay

that the Conquerors had left all their vices, and carried with them only their virtues, which, as they were but few, they could stow in a small compass.

The soldiers were drawn up in front of the Cathedral as we returned from our stroll, and I witnessed the evolutions of a small detachment of dragoons-which I subsequently discovered was composed of Americans, and a small body of native artillerists-that would have reflected credit upon more experienced soldiers.

The sun sank, and the rain began to fall heavily. The rainy season had just set in, and we stowed ourselves away in the house, where, in the society of the pleasant family who kept the posada, we passed a very agreeable and delightful eve. From my host I learned much of the city of Leon; and as he reverted to Granada, his eye would brighten, and his thin lip wreathe with disdain, as he drew comparisons, either between the towns or their inhabitants. A jicara of aguardiente as we sought our ox-hide beds, and lulled to repose by the pattering rain on the tiled roof, I soon Bank into a state of dreamy and blessed unconsciousness.

CHAPTER XIV.

THE

HISTORICAL INTERLUDE-LOCATION OF LEON-RUINED HOUSES-THE PLAINSUBURBS-CANE HUTS-Pirates in 1685-REVOLUTIONS-THE CATHEDRALITS SIZE, COST, DESCRIPTION-THE INTERIOR-THE ORGAN-THE GREAT ALTAR-PORTRAITS-CONFESSIONAL CHAIRS-GALLERY-VIEW FROM THE ROOF-COLLEGE OF ST. RAMON-THE EPISCOPAL PALACE-THE CUARTEL GOVERNMENT HOUSE-LA MERCED CALVARIO RECOLLECCIONSTATUES-SUBTIABA-PLAZA AND CATHEDRAL-ALTARS-MARKET OF LEON —FRUITS—TRADE-STORES AND MERCHANTS—THE BISHOP'S BATHS-PARAISO DE MAHOMA-CLIMATE-THE BISHOP-HIS CARRIAGE-MR. SQUIERA VIEW FROM THE ROOF OF SAN PEDRO-BAPTISM OF A VOLCANO-PLAIN OF LEON-EARTHQUAKES-A VISIT TO GENERAL MUNOZ-HIS ATTENDANTS— A TETE-A-TETE-A WORD OR TWO-HIS RESIDENCE AND FAMILY.

THIS city was founded by Hernandez de Cordova in 1523 Its original site was near the base of the volcano of Momotombo, which, however, was abandoned in 1610 for the present locality, formerly a large Indian village, Subtiaba, now a municipality of Leon. It is about half way between Lake Managua and the Pacific, and covers a vast area, built upon

as in Granada and Managua, though a finer class of houses originally existed here, many of which are now shapeless ruins. A few still remain, and those are not in the best state of preservation. The principal entrances to some of these edifices exhibit considerable taste and skill. Above some of the portal-arches, the arms of the nobler class were placed; and altogether, even in the ruins, a grandeur is perceived not met with elsewhere in the country.

The plain we passed over, described in our last chapter, surrounds the city; the land is fertile and particularly adapted to the culture of sugar-cane and cotton. Upon two sides are ravines, through which fine streams of water flow, whence the inhabitants are supplied; the article being purer and fresher than that to be had in other localities. The suburbs are composed of cane huts, some with mud, others with tiled roofs. The city suffered extensively and frequently from the English pirates, in 1685, who sacked it, burned the cathedral, the convent, and many of the principal edifices. Subsequent to the Declaration of Independence, a war ensued between the Serviles and the Liberals, during which the richest portions of the town were destroyed.

A few of its public buildings are worthy of notice. The Cathedral of St. Peter, on the eastern side of the grand plaza, was commenced in 1706 and finished in 1743, occupying thirty-seven years in its completion, and is deservedly