to recall their history. They left Spain, dismembered, it seems for ever. Where fled they? Some to Morocco, to Tunis, others-where? I have thought, and breaking the repose of the languor which would ever follow her song, have asked: "Where did you learn that lay of the Cid?" The answer was, "Oh, my mother taught me !" "And where did she learn it?" "Oh, from home!" Perhaps she dreamed of that paradise forever lost to her, when torn from her race by the barbarous hand of Spain.

There are many traits which remind me of the Moors: the arrangement of the hair, of the kerchief round the head, their figures, the proud, stately step, the high cheek-bone, the deep, earnest, piercing eye, the firm, proud lip, all distinct and in no respect alloyed by the grosser, sensual form, mien, or gaze of the Spanish race, or the admixture thereof. Would the impure race dream of a fatherland, and recognize its history in its songs? I have been led to this digression, for I confess many, many times have I thought the matter over, and the more I thought the more my mind became confused. The liquid, minor melodies would find an echo in my soul, and arouse memories of the Alhambra's gardens, her terraced cliffs, her jeweled beauties, her noble, heroic children, and I felt welling o'er my soul a kindred tide of sympathy, while I clasped my guitar, to catch the echoing air, or perhaps only the melancholy murmuring refrain.

CHAPTER XVI.

LEON SUBTIABA — COUNTRY — QUESALGUAQUE — THE

DESCENT-FRUITS POSULTEGA-CHICHIGALPA-POPULATION-COUNTRY AND FRUITS-A PLEASANT RIDE-A CHOICE ESTATE-CHINANDEGA-ITS COMMERCE AND INHABITANTS-OLD CHINANDEGA-BAD ROAD TO REALEJO-REALEJO-ITS HARBOR

CUSTOM HOUSE-DEPTH OF WATER-DOCKS AND WAREHOUSES-CARDON

SAN JUAN DEL SUR-LOCATION-SIZE-HARBOR IMPROVEMENTS-THE PAPAGAYOS-BRITO-COUNTRY BETWEEN SAN JUAN AND VIRGIN BAY-ROADS IN RAINY SEASON-VIRGIN BAY AGAIN--WHARF-TRANSIT COMPANY-RIO TIPITAPA-PASO CHICO-FALLS OF TIPITAPA-DEPTH OF THE RIVER-RIO GRANDE -SURFACE OF LAKE MANAGUA-DISTANCE FROM REALEJO-CHONTALES

PRODUCTS-MINERALS-WOODS-ANIMALS-IAND-STREAMS-CATTLE-AD

VICE AND REFLECTIONS.

LEAVING Leon, our journey leads through the suburbs of Subtiaba, and crossing a stream which runs laughingly through an arched and shady nook, we reach wide-spreading fields of corn. The road winds through open plains, and we reach the woods after a toasting, and seek a ravine whose banks are steep and high. At the foot we find quite a stream,

known as Quesalguaque. The descent is circuitous. In succession, as we spur on, fields of pine-apples and corn appear, and we reach a small village called after the stream. Twe leagues beyond, the road is broader, the country well wooded, and we find another village, Posultega, which contains a dilapidated church, and probably four or five hundred inhabitants. Two leagues farther, and we halt at Chichigalpa, an ancient Indian pueblo, which although dilapidated, has a population of five thousand. It is a pleasant spot, and just the place for a month's recruit. The country is level, and supplied with fruits. The pine-apples, particularly, are very luscious, the nisperos remarkably fine, and the oranges sweet and cheap. A pleasant ride of seven or eight miles over a well-shaded road brings us to San Antonio. This is a very large and choice estate. It was originally a sugar plantation. The house is commodious, well built, and well constructed, besides having been painted. A foreigner I heard had previously owned it.

A short ride, probably a league, brought us to Chinandega, which, if not so large as Granada, or Leon, is nevertheless the most flourishing city in the State. It contains about sixteen thousand inhabitants, and is truly the commercial emporium of Nicaragua. The houses are generally of a better class than in other towns, although they are built of the universal adobe, but with tiled roofs. Old Chinandega contains a pop

REALEJO—ITS HARBOR AND WAREHOUSES.

151

ulation of about five thousand, and is situated upon a stream which flows through it. It possesses little of interest, save a large old church, standing on a terrace in the plaza. A strangelooking wall margins the terrace edge, and above the flights of steps by which we ascend, are high arches, different from any thing seen in this country. Chinandega is regularly laid out in squares, and although in a level district, is an agreeable residence.

The worst road, in fact the slipperiest, I ever traveled, especially during the wet season, leads to Realejo, two leagues distant. This port is small, the land low, and most probably is very unhealthy. The Custom House is located here. It has a population of about one thousand or fifteen hundred. The town was originally built nearer the water, though on account of the numerous pirates who once frequented the coast, the present site was chosen as being farther removed from speedy visits and instant spoliation. Docks and warehouses, as also depots for coal have been built, and the port is far superior to any on the coast. The entrance to the harbor is protected by the Island of Cardon, which is about a mile and three quarters long, and so situated as to protect it from the boisterous winds and heavy swells which enter the outer bay of Conchagua from the Ocean. The North entrance is about a quarter of a mile wide, free from rocks, and has a mud

point has less thar five fathoms of water.

bottom, and at no

Vessels may enter

one of these openings with a leading wind, from any point of the compass. The inside consists of a fine basin not less than four fathoms deep, and two hundred ships at one time may here ride securely at anchor. Merchant vessels lie about a mile from the entrance, in the branch of a creek. Opposite the port there is a fine beach, the water being deep to its very edge. The rise and fall of the tide is eleven feet.

San Juan del Sur was located in 1851, and although its harbor is small, and many speculators discouraged the capitalists from any investment in it in its early days, yet it has acquired a place upon the chart of Nicaragua, and is now one of its most thriving towns. There are a large number of broad streets, some fine hotels, good houses, and altogether it is really North American in its character. The Custom House is located here, and the Californians returning to the United States have considerably augmented its resources; the depth of water two hundred yards out, is about two fathoms. The entrance is about eleven hundred yards, between promontories at least four to five hundred feet high. The land is sandy. There are ten fathoms water at the entrance, and the tide rises fourteen feet. The Papagayos, or revolving winds, drive the sand into our plates as we sit at table, through our clothing, into our eyes and ears, and altogether, aside from its stirring character as a depot, and as the port of exit for travelers by the Transit Route, it is far from being a pleasant residence. Lands