with dust; clouds of grasshoppers sweep over the forests, devour the leaves of the trees and vines, and leave a ghostly picture of desolation and aridity behind. I remember, during a ride from the little Indian village of Nindiri to Managua, in company with several friends, meeting a host of these rapacious banditti. We were in the midst of a forest; a cloud seemed to hang over our heads; a rattling among the dried leaves of the trees attracted our attention, resembling sand thrown on blotting-paper, though louder. Wherever we turned, there this living cloud extended. We found, upon reaching the outskirt of the woods, that an immense body of grasshoppers were winging past us, leaving leafless bushes, trees, and a trail of barren, poverty-stricken herbage. We pushed forward, in a fast walk, and judging by the time occupied, we estimated this moving mass to have been at least four miles long by three miles in breadth. This is not an uncommon visit, nor do I over-estimate the extent of this described party of insects.

Years agone, their devastation was so great, that prayers were offered up in all the churches of the State. The towns were filled with them-the yards, rooms, barracks, and churches; wherever there was a void, there they went. Prayers were unavailing, useless, till one morn, at daybreak, a mighty rushing was heard overhead. A terrible crash, a battling, as it were, of wings, mingled with cries and shrieks.

SAN MIGUEL'S GREAT BATTLE.

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On came the heavy cloud, and far above, clad in angelic armor, San Miguel was seen driving the enemy back, and at every blow massacring myriads. As the sun rose fully up, the scene on Nature's canvas grew fainter, the cries less distinct, yet the sword of the patron saint was seen still battling. The enemy was routed; the country safe. So runs the story.

These same insects, or their progeny, returned there during my stay in the country, and seemed to have all the fun to themselves. However, they did not settle there, but only paid a flying visit, leaving ample room for other adventurers, whose patron saints were strong arms, whose advent was sure, and whose dispersion was at least uncertain.

CHAPTER II.

DISTRICTS, POPULATION-TOWNS, POPULATION-GRANADA, ITS ARCHITECTURE, CHURCHES, STREETS, CARTS, WASHING AND WASHER-WOMEN-SAN CARLOS, THE COMMANDANTE'S HOUSE, THE OLD FORT, THE CUSTOM HOUSE-LAKE NICARAGUA-RIO FRIO-LA BOQUETA-ISLANDS-VIRGIN BAY AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY-SAN MIGUELITA-SAN JORGE, ITS PAROCHIAL CHURCH -ROAD TO RIVAS.

THERE are six districts in this State: viz., Rivas; Chontales, Granada, Massaya, and Managua; Leon and Chinandega; Matagalpa; Segovia; and Guanacaste. From a late census return, the combined population amounts to two hundred and sixty-four thousand-Rivas, twenty thousand; Chontales, Granada, Massaya, and Managua, ninety-five thousand; Leon and Chinandega, ninety thousand; Matagalpa, forty thousand; Segovia, twelve thousand; and Guanacaste, seven thousand. There are about twenty towns, varying in population from five hundred to thirty thousand. Rivas, or ancient Nicaragua, has about eleven thousand; Granada, fifteen thousand; Massaya,

GRANADA-ITS ARCHITECTURE-TRAVEL.

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fifteen thousand; Managua, eleven thousand; Leon, twentyfive thousand to thirty thousand; and Chinandega, about twelve thousand.

Granada, lying on Lake Nicaragua, occupies the site of the ancient Indian town "Salteba." Its buildings are of adobes roofed with tiles, while its principal edifices, with domes and towers, are of a strange medley of Moresque architecture. The windows are bird-cages on a large scale; the houses are one story in height, and are about sixteen or eighteen feet from the pavement to the eaves of the roofs, which project beyond the walls, and serve to wanderers as coverings from the rain. The pavements are raised, leaving the streets about two feet or more below; and as the town is built on terraces, during the rainy season floods of water rush down this channel with great velocity, rendering it any thing but an easy task to cross from side to side. The streets are narrow, though ample for convenience and beauty. They are unpaved, and in dry weather dusty; yet better sheltered by the overhanging roofs from the tropical sun than those of North America. The churches are generally in a state of decay, and present little remarkable to the eye.

Riding on horseback is the principal mode of traveling. There are mule paths throughout the entire State, but few roads are passable for a cart or wagon, not many of which are used. The carters with their loaded vehicles often afford a

rich treat to the observer, though doubtless vexatious enough to themselves. With one wheel perhaps in a deep wash, the other on a rock, it requires assiduous attentions on the part of the driver to ever reach a market with his cargo in safety. The wheels screech, for grease is never used, but instead of it a bush, called the soap-bush, also used for washing; this, for a time, eases the thirsty axle, but, anon, as the wheel rolls on, its plaintive cries for more soap grate harshly on the ear. It is said this custom of non-greasing is deemed politically expedient, for no enemy can thus approach a town without giving due notice.

Taken altogether, the city of Granada is situated beautifully, and is a truly delightful residence. It was founded in 1522, by Francisco Hernandez de Cordova, who built a fort for its protection on the lake beach, which is now much dilapidated, or was, prior to Gen. Walker's entering it. Its gray walls, and its sentry-box, which may once have resounded with martial music, are now deserted, save where the humming washer-woman hangs the banner of her profession—a shirt, or its accompaniments on the bulwarks, to bleach in the sun. These ladies do a vast deal of thumping. Your clothes are sent to be washed, say at seventy-five cents per dozen; it must be stated, definitely, starching and ironing, or there will be extras in the bill. They take the clothes to the lake, place them between two large stones, (similar to the iron stone,) rub