reside the elite of the city. The street leading to the Jalteva runs by La Mercedes to the south side of the plaza, immediately in front of the unfinished Church of San Juan de Dios. The façade of this church is quite elaborate and elegantly designed; it fronts north, however, which, as I learned, was considered ill-omened, or unpropitious, and it is consequently left to decay.

The Government House is a shabby saloon, thirty feet long by twenty wide, and furnished with long desks and benches, made of Madeira wood-a species of cedar-like those used in country school-houses. There are several fine hotels in Granada, the best, if it still exists, being the Irving House. Price, one dollar and a half a day, or thirty-one dollars a month. It is located on a street leading east from the plaza, and immediately in the rear of the parochial church.

Upon the northeastern side of the plaza, stands the cuartel, a long, one-story building, roughly built, serving as barracks, magazine, armory, drilling-room, and prison. From this celebrated depot the troops are trotted out at 12 M. every sunny day. The drummers beat very well, and a march is taken around the plaza and the principal streets. The band generally consists of two violins, two clarionets, one flute, two or three brass instruments, and a drum and fife. They really perform remarkably well; though, for their very lives, they cannot play "Yankee Doodle" properly. The music in church

FUNERALS-FEAST-DAYS.

45

is usually good. The orchestra is larger than the band, and there is generally a good second tenor voice of considerable compass and sweetness.

Funerals are attended by any and every body. After the anointing with almond oil, the body is placed on a bier; the bearers take their posts, and the procession moves on, headed by the priests, singing. Should the funeral be that of a child's, the corpse is neatly dressed, the little hands crossed on the breast, the eyes sometimes closed, and wreaths or bunches of flowers cast over it and placed about the head. Three or four musicians are kept fiddling and singing, and boys are firing off rockets, squibs, and crackers incessantly, and thus they march to the final resting-place. To become accustomed to such scenes greatly reduces the horror, the unknown, indescribable feeling occasioned by sudden or familiar approach to death. Yet it is trying to one's nerves; and I kept my eyes about me to avoid scenes repulsive to me, brace myself as I would. The grave-yard is about one hundred feet square, enclosed with a high fence. They commence at the gate, and bury in a circle; and when the entire ground is covered, which, I am told, is about once a year, they then dig up the bones, collect them under a slab placed for the purpose, and on a certain fixed day burn them all. So we go: dust we are, but to thin air we vanish.

All the feast days in the calendar are kept sacred. Every

one bestows his time upou them, and holy week and all other holidays are hailed with great pleasure. The bells are so constantly ringing, that one grows accustomed to their dingdong, and feels ill at ease when wandering in some secluded spot, with nothing but the songs and chirps of birds to break the monotonous silence.

I have

The instruments of music are quite numerous. heard, on a serenade, the overture to the Caliph of Bagdad, overture to Lucia, with various masses and anthems, by the old masters, performed in much better style, and in more perfect time, than in my own city, where so much respect is paid to musical education. The guitar is pre-eminent in all Spanish countries and provinces, and will ever remain so, for as an accompaniment to the voice, it cannot be surpassed. The flute and clarionet are also heard. Many of their compositions I have listened to with great pleasure, and regret that I can only remember or recognize an occasional link in the chain of the melody.

The masses dress neatly; the legislators usually in black, with black silk hats. The public, as a class, wear white coats, white pants, and a scarf of scarlet or yellow silk, as a sash, about their waists. This, with the jaunty, easy, graceful panama, completes the costume, which is agreeably convenient in such a climate. Clothing is dear. They have a French tailor in Granada who cuts well. Shoes can be bought

THE GOOD OLD RULE.

47

for about one dollar and twenty cents a pair. Hats at various prices. Rent is very low. For eight dollars per month, I took a house in the centre of the city, nearly adjoining the Church of La Mercedes, containing three large rooms, with a kitchen, an immense yard, and large stable attached. I deemed this very reasonable, but my friends thought it more than sufficient.

The customs are extremely primeval, and I was never offended by any rudeness or incivility. I found the old rule always brought me out right in the end-Do as you would be done by. And yet I have heard of extreme cases of duplicity, particularly toward foreigners, by those in power. There is little for outsiders to hope for, when a nation is wanting in faith to its own.

CHAPTER V.

RIVAS-THE HOMBRE-LEONEZE-AZTECS-THEIR MONUMENTS—BETWEEN RIVAS AND GRANADA-OBRAJE-GIL GONZALES-A LUXURY-SNAKES-HINTS FOR THOSE GOING TO NICARAGUA-BOA CONSTRICTORS-TIGRES-TIGRE NEGRO

MOUNTAIN

CATS--COYOTE-BATS-THE

CALIFORNIAN'S PURCHASE-THE

REVOLVERS-ENROLLING

CHAMORRO ESTATE TROOPS-MUSKETS-COLT'S

SOLDIERS-MONOPOLIES-INCIDENT IN MANAGUA-A FLOGGING.

RIVAS was once the seat of a Mexican colony, governed by a Cazique, Niquira. The dirty hómbre, who bears prodigious burdens of corn upon his back, and who hesitates at nothing for a little money, can readily be traced to this origin. Indeed, in the various districts of Nicaragua, the inhabitants differ greatly, not only in physiognomy but in manner. Those of Leon, and the interior generally, bear themselves with greater ease, are more enlightened and refined, and evince a studious neatness in their apparel. Upon the volcano of Ometepec, in the midst of the Lake, are the descendants of the Aztecs with