what was going on, and was told that some thieves were to be publicly punished. The soldiery, probably five hundred in. number, marshalled in due form, the files were opened, and the General-in-chief appeared, heralded with trumpets and drums, and supported by his staff. The criminals were brought from the cuartel, their hands bound behind them, and they were placed in a conspicuous position, to be seen by their comrades. A superior officer, after much drum-beating, read the charge and condemnation in a loud tone. Charge: "Stealing money and knives from certain persons." Two or three soldiers, at a signal, stepped from the ranks, and took off the shirts of the criminals. "Ground arms !" or its equivalent, "Drop!" "Draw ramrods!" and certain other soldiers advanced. A temporary post was fixed firmly in the ground, to which the thieves were tied alternately, and the whippers commenced their exercise. The blows fell heavily, and the cries of the poor fellows smote upon my heart. Their crime merited punishment, yet the whip, in my opinion, is not the proper instructor, whereby a moral and lasting result is to be attained. CHAPTER VI. RIO OCHOMOGO-OID STRUCTURE-ADOBE BUILDINGS: THEIR STRENGTH OI INDIGO PLANTATION-NANDYME-HORSEFLESH-PRICES-GAITS-HORSE STATUE-LANDMARKS-CORN MANSHIP-MOMOBACHO-ITS ASCENT-GOLD MINE-LAKE ON THE SUMMIT- GRANADA-THE ALERTE-MUSICAL ANALYSIS-SYMPATHY-THE SALVE REGINA THE TRANSPARENCY-STRANGE EFFECT-HOME AND A HAMMOCK. ANOTHER stream, washing the sandy road ahead; our nag scents the water, and reinvigorated, quickens his pace. This is the Rio Ochomogo, beyond which, on a hill-side, is a dilapidated old adobe structure, square in form, with open sides and tiled roof. It is used by the muleteers as a stopping-place, and is surrounded with dense forest trees, finer, as a body, than any we have yet seen. These adobe buildings will stand firm in a tropical climate, for many, many years, though time weighs heavily upon all things else. The rich earth producing immense crops of weeds and spontaneous vegetation, greatly changes the appearance of a rancho in a very short time. A vine creeps over a high wall in a week, and in damp corners a vegetable mould will form so thick in two or three years, as to warrant a stranger in supposing it the work of half a century. I have read wonderful stories of Central America; of estimates formed and deductions drawn relative to the age of a building, a temple, or a wall, from the immense mass of this mould collected thereon A residence for a little time in this country will satisfy any observing man that too much care cannot be taken in weighing such a matter. An old indigo plantation is before us, now vacant, though the vats yet remain. The unsettled condition of the country has caused this, together with the great amount of expense and labor involved in raising so precious an article. Still on, is a plain with calabash and forest trees margining the road, and at intervals screening a lovely landscape from the view. Beyond is the Indian village of Nandyme. Large outskirts flank the town, and the generality of the houses are of medium appearance. The land is more clayey, and at times slippery even during the dry season; but in the wet, it is a breakneck ride to trot a mule over this road. on a very fair animal, I met frequent of slidings, stumblings, and fallings. Though mounted mishaps in the way Horseflesh here is valued pretty much according to gait; a fine trotter can be HORSES AND HORSEMANSHIP-MULES. 57 purchased for twenty to forty dollars; while a pony that racks, paces or canters, will command one hundred. The Spaniard of Nicaragua is probably as much attached to his steed, as was the Castilian of yore. Their animals possess wind and bottom, and are remarkably strong, but slow; and few can excel in speed the fourth-rate horses of New York or Philadelphia. I had heard much of the horsemanship of these people, but saw little to boast of. The Nicaraguan can "stick" to a horse well enough, but there is many a country lad of fifteen with us who can beat him. For endurance, these horses are unexcelled; they are small, compact and reliable, but a great majority of them sprung in the knees, rendering them unsafe as hackneys. The mules are well-bred, and preserve their gait better than the horses; they are small and can safely be trusted with the rein over the craggiest or most slippery camino real. The precision of his step in descending a hill-side is wonderful. Where no man could walk without slipping, the mule jogs easily along, his head bent down, and his long ears flapping to and fro, a perfect picture of easy carelessness. His foot once planted, give him the rein and trust to him. He lives upon scanty allowance, braves all weathers, endures any amount of privations, sleeps well, works well, and is ready for his burden and his journey at the appointed hour. The cruel muleteer spurs him up with a spike, fixed in the end of a long spear. On our left rises the defunct volcano of Momobacho, lined with dark masses of mould-covered lava; its side bare of trees, and exposing a tremendous orifice. There is said to be a small lake on its side, and one on its summit, each studded with gold fish. The ascent of this volcano, from a distance seems gradual and easy, but is found on trial to be almost impracticable. In 1849, a few Americans tried it, and after much toil and severe privations, planted the "Stars and stripes" upon its very summit. On the inland side, years past, it is said, was a valuable gold mine, yielding bountifully; but during a volcanic eruption it was buried, and so remains. I was told by old inhabitants, that Momobacho formerly had but one peak; now there are two points of elevation, joined by an intervening mass. The Lake on its summit is said to be a quarter of a mile long and half a mile wide. Momobacho looms grandly up, and can be seen in clear weather even from the Jalteva of Granada. The country through which our road leads us becomes more rolling, and huts, corn-fields, plantain and mango groves increase. Palm and orange trees appear in quick succession. The lemon fills the air with its fragrance; fruits of various descriptions hang from the overladen boughs; while the tall cocoa, running spirelike into the blue ether, is relieved by floating clouds. Diriomo, an Indian pueblo, lies three leagues from Granada. |