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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
PAGE
Extent-Geographical Position-Volcanoes-Lakes-Managua and Nicaragua-
Rivers The Rio San Juan-Trailing Vines-Alligators-Monkeys-Rapids-The
Castillo and Machuca-Climate-Temperature-An Incident............................. 17
CHAPTER II.
Districts-Population-Towns, Population-Granada, its Architecture, Churches,
Streets, Carts, Washing and Washer-women-San Carlos, the Commandante's
House, the Old Fort, the Custom House-Lake Nicaragua-Rio Frio-La Boquets
Islands Virgin Bay and the adjacent Country-San Miguelito-San Jorge, its
Parochial Church-Road to Rivas.....
26
CHAPTER III.
Rivas-The Plaza-Market-Señoritas-Early History-Gil Gonzales de Avila―The
arrival of the Spaniards-Nicaragua-Rodrigo de Contreras-Hernandez-The
Capture of the Country-Country about Rivas-Business-Samoza, the Rebel
Chief-Hotel and Eating-Church of San Francisco-Bust of Washington-Henry
Clay-Price of Land-Stores and Trade-Living, Beef, etc.-Manner of Cooking
-Stoves Wood.........................................................................................................
CHAPTER IV.
Old Statues-The Old Convent-The Parochial-The Body of the Virgin-The
Padre and the Californian-A Wager-The Result-La Mercedes-San Juan de
Dios-The Government House-Hotels and prices of Board-The Cuartel-The
Troops-The Band-The Music-Funerals-Grave-Yard-Burning Bones-In-
struments of Music-Dress-Prices of Clothing-Hats-Shoes-Rents of Houses
-The Good Old Rule.
41
CHAPTER V.
Rivas-The Hombre-Leoneze-Aztecs-Their Monuments-Between Rivas and
Granada-Obraje-Gil Gonzales-A Luxury-Snakes-Hints for those going to
Nicaragua-Boa Constrictors-Tigres-Tigre Negro-Mountain Cats-Coyote-
Bats-The Californian's Purchase-The Chamorro Estate-Troops-Muskets-
Colt's Revolvers-Enrolling Soldiers-Monopolies-Incident in Managua—A
Flogging.........
48
CHAPTER VI.
Rio Ochomogo-Old Structure-Adobe Buildings: their Strength-Old Indigo Plan-
tation-Nandyme-Horseflesh-Prices-Gaits-Horsemanship-Momobacho-Its
-Ascent-Gold Mine-Lake on the Summit-Fruits on the Road-Side-Diriomo-
Old Statue-Landmarks-Corn Estates-Ancient Indigo Plantations-Fields of
Volcanic Matter-Granada-The Alerte-Musical Analysis-Sympathy-The
Salve Regina The Transparency-Strange Effect-Home and a Hammock......... 55
CHAPTER VII.
The Houses of Nicaragua-Size-Appearance-Adobes-Size-Form-Material-
Cement-Wells-Water-Money, value of-Trade-Bongoes-National Vessels-
The Orus and Director Steamers-Manners and Customs-Belfry of La Mercedes
-The Sharpshooter-His Death-Sandoval's Estate-Indigo Plantation-The
Lake-Oranges and Mangoes-Corn-Sacate-Pine-apples-Jocotes-A beautiful
Estate Cost-Intemperance-Virtues- Cloths-Socks-Sickness- Physic and
CHAPTER VIII.
Religious Festivals-St. James' Day-San Ignatius de Loyola-Transit of the Virgin
-The Corpus-St. Peter and the Holy Keys-Images-Santa Theresa-Cochineal
Plantations-Mode of Culture and Preparation of it for Market-Coffee-Its Cul-
tivation-Sugar-Indigo-Amount of Harvest-Tobacco-Amount Raised-Profits
-Gunpowder and other Government Monopolies-Articles of Manufacture-
Artificers in Gold and Silver-Opposite Granada-Cattle Estates-Catching
Cattle-The Peta-Huija-Figs and Olives-A Hint......................................
71
The Malaccas-Cultivation of the Cacao-Description of a Cacao Estate-An Ugly
Fissure outside Granada-A Shock of an Earthquake-Speculations in case of
Emergency-Lake Poyo-Delightful Jaunt-A Lake Como-A Cup of Tiste-Its
UseProductions of the Country-Cigars-Maize-Aguardiente-Effects of not
to be mistaken-Wheat-Minerals-Gold, Silver, and Copper Mines of Depilta-
The Chontales Mining Districts-Matagalpa-Paynter-The Central States-Their
Mines Account of Honduras and San Salvador-Costa Rica-Coal-Want of
Machinery, Means, and Enterprise...........
CHAPTER X.
Beyond Granada-A View-Indian Mother and her Load-The Conquerors-My
Opinion-Masaya-The Plaza-The Church-Stores and Manufactures-Fine
Hats, Prices-Hammocks-Provisions-Extent of the Town-Dogs and Buzzards
-Country beyond the Town-Nindiri-Its Church-Cool Shade-its Oranges-
Another Fine View-Mal Pais, a road of Lava-Rio Tipitapa and the Lakes-
Something from Oviedo-An Oasis-A Drink, and a Swing in a Hammock-En-
trance into Managua-Whom we met-City by Moonlight-Nihapa-Indian
Temple-A Sell-Difference of Opinions about it-Other Lakes-Washer-women
again-Ancient History-Señoritas................
CHAPTER XI.
Managua-Its Inhabitants-Serviles and Liberals-Historical Interludes-Educa-
tion-The Fathers of Eld-Bigotry-Ecclesiastics-An Ancient Carving-Padre
Vigil-Religious Ceremonies-The Indians-Squier's Assertions relative to the
Mosquito Indians-History again-Ideas about Migration-Antique Stones
(Piedras Antiguas)-The Confessors of the Conquest........
CHAPTER XII
80
96
......... 106
.dols-Good Teeth-Cigaritas-Universal Use-A Primitive People-A Clean Breast
of several Matters-A Visit with the Consul-General of the United States-An
Interesting Domestic Group-Recognition of a well-known Voice-Comforts not
Expected-Country about the City-Fruits-Fields-Cooks-Society-Our Posada
-Biographical Sketch of Chamorro-Also of Jose Trinidad Muñoz-Outside of
Managua-On our Tour Again-Scouts-New Road over the Mountain-Narrow
Path-An Incident by the Way-side-Glimpses of the Country-Outposts Ahead,
and our Preparation.....................................................................................................................................................................
............ 116
CHAPTER XIII.
Mateares-Population-Appearance-The House of our Host-Our Exit-Our Pass
Lake Managua-A Hot Sun and an Infernal Road-A Hut at hand-A Friend
In Need A Stream-A Halt-A Bath-Nagarote-A Posada-The Land-Host and
Hostess-Musquitoes-Attempt to Sleep-Fare-Frijoles, Tortillas, and Aguardi-
ente-Pleasant Ride, and an Early Start-Beautiful Appearance of the Country-
Deer-Roads-Fields of Maize-Sunrise-Cocoa-nuts-Palms and Calabashes→→→
Cane Huts and Trim Gardens-Fine Cactus-Pueblo Nuevo, and a Posada-Our
Meal-Beyond the Village-Features of the Country-Soil and Timber-The Plain
of Leon-Ditches-Huts-Nine Volcanoes-Glimpse of the Cathedral-Gaudelupe
-City in the distance-Evidences of an anticipated Sally on our Entrance-Our
Posada-Cup of Cacao-Inhabitants-Legacies of the Conquerors-The Troops-
Dragoons-Rainy Season-Our Host...
CHAPTER XIV.
............. 126
Historical Interlude-Location of Leon-Ruined Houses-The Plain-Suburbs-
Cane Huts-Pirates in 1685-Revolutions-The Cathedral-Its Size, Cost, Descrip-
tion-The Interior-The Organ-The Great Altar-Portraits-Confessional Chairs
-Gallery-View from the Roof-College of St. Ramon-The Episcopal Palace-
The Cuartel-The Government House-La Merced-Calvario-Recollection-
Statues-Subtiaba-Plaza and Cathedral-Altars-Market of Leon-Fruits-Trade
-Stores and Merchants-The Bishop's Baths-Paraiso de Mahoma-Climate-
The Bishop-His Carriage-Mr. Squier-A View from the Roof of San Pedro-
Baptism of a Volcano-Plain of Leon-Earthquakes-A Visit to General Muñoz-
His Attendants-A Tete-à-tete-A Word or Two-His Residence and Family...... 137
CHAPTER XV.
City of Leon-History-Decree of Annexation to the United States-Constitution
Adopted-Abolishment of Papal Bulls, Monasteries-Abridgment of certain Eccle-
siastical Privileges-The National Flag-The Bishop, Archbishop, and his Holi-
ness the Pope-Various Wars-General Morazan-Carrera-Malespin-Capture
of San Juan by the English-Samoza-A Knight-His Revolution-Capture and
Death-Death of Muñoz-President Pineda's Summary Removal-Walker-A
Change comes over Nicaragua-Thoughts and Speculations........................................................................ 147
CHAPTER XVI.
Leon-Subtiaba-Country-Quesalguaque-The Descent-Fruits-Posultega-Chi
chigalpa-Population-Country and Fruits-A Pleasant Ride-A Choice Estate-
Chinandega-Its Commerce and Inhabitants-Old Chinandega-Bad Road to
Realejo-Realejo-Its Harbor-Custom House-Depth of Water-Docks and
Warehouses-Cardon-San Juan del Sur-Location-Size-Harbor Improvements
-The Papagayas-Brito-Country between San Juan and Virgin Bay-Roads
in Rainy Season-Virgin Bay again-Wharf-Transit Company-Rio Tipitapa-
Paso Chico-Falls of Tipitapa-Depth of the River-Rio Grande-Surface of
Lake Managua-Distance from Realejo-Chontales-Products-Minerals-Woods
-Animals-Land-Streams-Cattle-Advice and Reflections............................. 155
CHAPTER XVII.
Greytown-Topography-Extent of Mosquito Territory-Indian Tribes-Pope's
Bull-Spain's Claim and England's, also Nicaragua's-Whose is Valid ?-Corona-
tion of a Mosquito King-His Dress-The Dress of his Chiefs-English Officers-
The King's dignified manner of expressing himself-Baptism-Supper and Finale
to the Farce-Grant to the Shepherds-Their Title-Conveyance to the Central
American Company-Issuing of Stock-Objects of the Company....................... 166
CHAPTER XVIII.
Bluefields-The Mosquito King-The Shepherd Grant denied upon various grounds
-England Plays her Hand-Colonel Kinney-His Trials and Hardships-De-
nounced as a Fillibuster-His Expedition-Wrecking of his Vessel-Arrival at
Greytown-Burning of Greytown prior to his Arrival-Results and Alleged Cause
-President Pierce's Declaration of War-The Muse of History-Colonel Kinney
Elected Governor-Preamble and Resolutions of the New Government-Consti-
tution-Officers Elected-The Central American Company at a Discount-Kinney's
Resignation-His Visit to Granada and expulsion thence-Walker's Empty Boast
-Sale of the Grant to the Mormons.......
CHAPTER XIX.
Inhabitants of the Mosquito Coast-Their Wealth-Climate-Introduction of Rell-
gion-Their own Belief-Burial of their Dead-Products of the Coast-Turtle
Birds-Fish-Animals-Vines-Trees and Woods-Rivers-Exploration of Indian
River by the Golden Club-A Beautiful Country-Magnificent Forests-Black
River-Gold-Indian River again-Shepherd's Ranche-Grand Falls-Prospect-
ing for Gold-Success-Droves of Wild Hogs-No Country for Snakes-Captain
Wilkinson's Party-Prospecting again-Rich Results................................................................................. 183
CHAPTER XX.
War in the Interior-United States Marshal in a Fix-Arrival of Gen. Walker-
Battle of Virgin Bay-Defeat of Guardiola-Subsequent Battles-Walker's Trium-
phant Entry into Granada-Treason and its Punishment-Schlessinger Surprised
at Guanacaste Charged with Treachery-His Trial, Condemnation, Flight, and
Sentence of Death-Battle of Rivas-Walker again Victorious-Inauguration of
Chamorro A Nine Months' Siege-His Death-Estrada his Successor-Padre
Vigil's Letter to Mr. Marcy-My Opinion-Henningsen's Glorious Defense of
Granada-Attack on San Jorge-Gallant Conduct of Capt. Higby-San Jorge