the upper Alameda. Here lives the venturesome English sailor, Robert Livermore, by whose name the nook is becoming known, and whose rapidly increasing possessions embrace stock-ranges, wheat-fields, vineyards, and orchards, with even a rude grist-mill. 12 Adjoining him are the ranchos Valle de San José of J. and A. Bernal, and Suñol and San Ramon of J. M. Amador, also known by his name. Northward, along the bay, lies the Rancho Arroyo de la Alameda of José Jesus Vallejo; the San Lorenzo of G. Castro and F. Soto; the San Leandro of J. J. Estudillo; the Sobrante of J. I. Castro; and in the hills and along the shore, covering the present Oakland and Alameda, the San Antonio of Luis M. Peralta and his sons.13

Similar to the Alameda Valley, and formed by the rear of the same range, enclosing the towering Monte del Diablo, lies the vale of Contra Costa, watered by several creeks, among them the San Pablo and San Ramon, or Walnut, and extending into the marshes of the San Joaquin. Here also the most desirable tracts are covered by grants, notably the San Pablo tract of F. Castro; El Pinole of Ignacio Martinez, with vineyards and orchards; the Acalanes of C. Valencia, on which are now settled Elam Brown, justice of the peace, and Nat. Jones; the Palos Colorados of J. Moraga; the Monte del Diablo of S. Pacheco; the Médanos belonging to the Mesa family; and the Méganos of Dr John Marsh, the said doctor being a graduate of Harvard College who

14

12 His neighbor on Rancho Los Pozitos, of two square leagues, was José Noriega; and west and south in the valley extended Rancho Valle de San José, 48,000 acres, Santa Rita, 9,000 acres, belonging to J. D. Pacheco, the San Ramon rancho of Amador, four square leagues, and Cañada de los Vaqueros of Livermore. Both Colton, Three Years, 266, and Taylor, El Dorado, i. 73, refer to the spot as Livermore Pass, leading from San José town to the valley of the Sacramento.

13 D. Peralta received the Berkeley part, V. the Oakland, M. the East Oakland and Alameda, and I. the south-east. The grant covered five leagues. The extent of the Alameda, San Lorenzo, and San Leandro grants was in square leagues respectively about four, seven, and one; Sobrante was eleven leagues.

By purchase in 1847, the latter owning one tenth of the three-quarter

league.

settled here in 1837" building a substantial stone house, where he lived in the retirement he so loved. He was a highly individualized and intellectual man whose letters to Secretary Marcy and other officials contain valuable information about California.

The upper part of the San Joaquin Valley had so far been shunned by fixed settlers, owing to Indian hostility toward the Spanish race. With others the

aborigines agreed better; and gaining their favor through the mediation of the influential Sutter, the German Charles M. Weber had located himself on French Camp rancho, which he sought to develop by introducing colonists. In this he had so far met with little success; but his farm prospering, and his employés increasing, he laid out the town of Tuleburg, soon to rise into prominence under the new name of Stockton.16 He foresaw the importance of the place as a station on the road to the Sacramento, and as the gateway to the San Joaquin, on which a settlement had been formed in 1846, as far up as the Stanislaus, by a party of Mormons. On the north bank of this tributary, a mile and a half from the San Joaquin, the migratory saints founded New Hope, or Stanislaus, which in April 1847 boasted ten or twelve colonists and several houses. Shortly afterward a summons

15 He bought it from J. Noriega, and called it the Pulpunes; extent, three leagues by four. The San Pablo and Pinole covered four leagues each, the Palos Colorados three leagues, the Monte del Diablo, on which Pacheco had some 5,000 head of cattle, four leagues. The aggressive Indians had disturbed several settlers, killing F. Briones, driving away Wm Welch, who settled in 1832, and the Romero brothers. Brown settled in 1847, and began to ship lumber to San Francisco. There were also the grants of Las Juntas of Wm Welch, three square leagues; Arroyo de las Nueces of J. S. Pacheco and Cañada del Hambre of T. Soto, the two latter two square leagues each.

16 Among the residents were B. K. Thompson, Eli Randall, Jos. Buzzell, Andrew Baker, James Sirey, H. F. Fanning, George Frazer, W. H. Fairchild, James McKee, Pyle, and many Mexicans and servants of Weber. See further in Tinkham's Hist. Stockton; San Joaquin Co. Hist.; Cal. Star, May 13, 1848, etc. Taylor reports two log cabins on the site in 1847, those of Buzzell and Sirey. Nic. Gann's wife, while halting in Oct. 1847, gave birth to a son, William. The name French Camp came from the trappers who frequently camped here. T. Lindsay, while in charge in 1845, was killed by Indian raiders. The war of 1847 had caused an exodus of proposed settlers.

from Salt Lake came to assist the floods in breaking up the colony."

North of Stockton Dr J. C. Isbel settled on the Calaveras, and Turner Elder on the Mokelumne, together with Smith and Edward Robinson.18 The latter, on Dry Creek tributary, has for a neighbor Thomas Rhoads, three of whose daughters married T. Elder, William Daylor an English sailor, and Jared Sheldon. The last two occupy their grants on the north bank of the Cosumnes, well stocked, and supporting a grist-mill. Along Along the south bank extend the grants of Hartnell and San 'Jon' de los Moquelumnes, occupied by Martin Murphy, Jr, and Anastasio Chabolla. South of them lies the Rancho Arroyo Seco of T. Yorba, on Dry Creek, where William Hicks holds a stock-range. 19

The radiating point for all these settlements of the Great Valley, south and north, is Sutter's Fort, founded as its first settlement, in 1839, by the enterprising Swiss, John A. Sutter. It stands on a small hill, skirted by a creek which runs into the American River near its junction with the Sacramento, and overlooking a vast extent of ditch-enclosed fields and park stock-ranges, broken by groves and belts of timber. At this time and for three months to come there is no sign of town or habitation around what is now Sacramento, except this fortress, and one old adobe, called the hospital, east of the fort. A garden

17 Stout, the leader, had given dissatisfaction. Buckland, the last to leave, moved to Stockton. The place is also called Stanislaus City, Bigler, Diary, MS., 48-9, speaks of a Mormon settlement on the Merced, meaning the above.

18 The former on Dry Creek, near the present Liberty, which he transferred to Robinson, married to his aunt, and removed to the Mokelumne, where twins were born in November 1847; he then proceeded to Daylor's. Thomas Pyle settled near Lockeford, but transferred his place to Smith.

19 The Chabolla, Hartnell, Sheldon-Daylor, and Yorba grants were 8, 6, 5, and 11 leagues in extent, respectively. The claims of E. Rufus and E. Pratt, north of the Cosumnes, failed to be confirmed. Cal. Star, Oct. 23, 1847, alludes to the flouring mill on Sheldon's rancho. See Sutter's Pers. Rem., MS., 162, in which Taylor and Chamberlain are said to live on the Cosumnes. In the San Joaquin district were three eleven-league and one eight-league grants claimed by José Castro, John Rowland, B. S. Lippincott, and A. B. Thompson, all rejected except the last.

SACRAMENTO VALLEY.

13

of eight or ten acres was attached to the fort, laid out with taste and skill, where flourished all kinds of vegetables, grapes, apples, peaches, pears, olives, figs, and almonds. Horses, cattle, and sheep cover the surrounding plains; boats lie at the embarcadero.

The fort is a parallelogram of adobe walls, 500 feet long by 150 in breadth, with loop-holes and bastions at the angles, mounted with a dozen cannon that sweep the curtains. Within is a collection of granaries and warehouses, shops and stores, dwellings and outhouses, extending near and along the walls round the central building occupied by the Swiss potentate, who holds sway as patriarch and priest, judge and father. The interior of the houses is rough, with rafters and unpanelled walls, with benches and deal tables, the exception being the audience-room and private apartments of the owner, who has obtained from the Russians a clumsy set of California laurel furniture.20 In front of the main building, on the small square, is a brass gun, guarded by the sentinel, whose measured tramp, lost in the hum of day, marks the stillness of the night, and stops alone beneath the belfry-post to chime the passing hour.

Throughout the day the enclosure presents an animated scene of work and trafficking, by bustling laborers, diligent mechanics, and eager traders, all to the chorus clang of the smithy and reverberating strokes of the carpenters. Horsemen dash to and fro at the bidding of duty and pleasure, and an occasional wagon creaks along upon the gravelly road-bed, sure to pause for recuperating purposes before the trading store,21 where confused voices mingle with laughter and the sometimes discordant strains of drunken

20 The first made in the country, he says, and strikingly superior to the crude furniture of the Californians, with rawhide and bullock-head chairs and bed-stretchers. Sutter's Pers. Rem., MS., 164, et seq. Bryant describes the dining-room as having merely benches and deal table, yet displaying silver spoons and China bowls, the latter serving for dishes as well as cups. What I Saw, 269-70.

21 One kept by Smith and Brannan. Prices at this time were $1 a foot for horse-shoeing, $Ỉ a bushel for wheat, peas $1.50, unbolted flour $8 a 100 lbs.

singers. Such is the capital of the vast interior valley, pregnant with approaching importance. In December 1847 Sutter reported a white population of 289 in the district, with 16 half-breeds, Hawaiians, and negroes, 479 tame Indians, and a large number of gentiles, estimated with not very great precision at 21,873 for the valley, including the region above the Buttes.22 There are 60 houses in or near the fort, and six mills and one tannery in the district; 14,000 fanegas of wheat were raised during the season, and 40,000 expected during the following year, besides other crops. Sutter owns 12,000 cattle, 2,000 horses and mules, from 10,000 to 15,000 sheep, and 1,000 hogs. 23 John Sinclair figures as alcalde, and George McKinstry as sheriff.

The greater portion of the people round the fort depend upon Sutter as permanent or temporary employés, the latter embracing immigrants preparing to settle, and Mormons intent on presently proceeding to Great Salt Lake. As a class they present a hardy, backwoods type of rough exterior, relieved here and there by bits of Hispano-Californian attire, in bright sashes, wide sombreros, and jingling spurs.

The na

tives appear probably to better advantage here than elsewhere in California, in the body of half a hundred well-clothed soldiers trained by Sutter, and among his staff of steady servants and helpers, who have acquired both skill and neatness. A horde of subdued

savages, engaged as herders, tillers, and laborers, are conspicuous by their half-naked, swarthy bodies; and others may be seen moving about, bent on gossip or trade, stalking along, shrouded in the all-shielding blanket, which the winter chill has obliged them to put on. Head and neck, however, bear evidence to their love of finery, in gaudy kerchiefs, strings of beads, and other ornaments.

22 McKinstry Pap., MS., 28.

23 There were 30 ploughs in operation. Sutter's Pers. Rem., MS., 43. The version reproduced in Sac. Co. Hist., 31, differs somewhat.