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and Androscoggin, which run nearly south, in directions nearly parallel and equidistant; while, as they approach the sea, a number of smaller streams flow in short courses between them, subdividing the coast into many capes and peninsulas, whose number is still further increased by bays and coves which set up into the land every few miles, and fringe the southern outline of the state along its whole extent of 221 miles, from Kittery point to Quoddy head. The northern part of the map presents countless small streams pouring into the main trunks of the rivers above-mentioned, of which they are the tributaries; while still above them, flowing with a long sweep, from north to east and southeast, the St. John's, the principal stream of the state, encircles the whole, marking out the present northern boundary, till it crosses the eastern boundary, and flows on through the neighboring British province of New Brunswick.

The valley of the Saco embraces 650 square miles, that of the Androscoggin 3,300, the Kennebec 5,280, and the Penobscot 8,200. The smaller streams in the south part of the state, before alluded to, are the Piscataqua, Sheepscot, Damariscotta, Muscongus, Union, Narragaugus, and Machias. The region between the Penobscot and the Kennebec, a distance of fifty miles, is remarkably well supplied with streams and inlets, so that almost every town has a navigable channel of its own.

being almost entirely engrossed, on the
one hand, by the cutting of timber in
the interior, its transportation to the
mills at the falls of the rivers, the saw-
ing and exportation of it to the different
ports of the Union and the West Indies;
and, on the other hand, by the fisheries
along the coast.
The increase of pop.
ulation, however, with the rapid disap-
pearance of the forests in the immediate
vicinity of streams, together with the
diffusion of just views of the importance
and methods of agriculture, have pro-
duced great and extensive improve-
ments; and the benefits resulting to
the state are already incalculably great.
Manufactures have also been introduced
to a considerable extent, while the min-
eral resources have begun to be devel-
oped, as iron, slate, marbie, and espe-
cially limestone, which is celebrated for
its excellent quality. Literary institu-
tions have been multiplied and well sup-
ported, and the common-school system
has been placed on a liberal foundation.

Trade is much favored by the nature of the coast and the character of some of the principal rivers; and already great improvements have been made by the construction of roads, railroads, and ca nals, and the establishment of steamboat lines. The principal ports and places of trade are Portland, Hallowell, Bangor, Calais, Brunswick, and Belfast; and Saco, Machias, and Eastport, have also excellent harbors. The exports are chiefly timber, lumber, dried fish, salt pork and beef, lime, and pot and pearl ashes.

The soil along the Atlantic border, extending from ten to twenty miles back from the coast, is generally poor, alThe business of cutting, transporting, though varying from sand to gravel, and manufacturing timber, includes maclay and loam, producing small crops of ny laborious operations, and occupies a glass, Indian corn, rye, &c. The next considerable part of the population. belt of land, from fifty to one hundred Trees are felled in the winter, drawn miles wide, is of better quality, and by oxen to the nearest water-course, and yields, in addition to these articles, left upon the ice, marked with the axe wheat, oats, flax, and hemp, as well as in such a manner that they may be recmost of the northern plants. The tract ognised by the agents of the cwner, stabetween the Kennebec and Penobscot tioned on the lower parts of the main is remarkably favorable to grazing, and, river. In the spring, at the melting of when well cultivated, yields forty bush- the deep snows, the floods carry down els of corn, and from twenty to forty the timber with the broken ice; and, bushels of wheat, to the acre. Agricul- after a long voyage, every log is drifted ture was greatly neglected for many to the falls of the great stream on whose years, the attention of the inhabitants branches it has grown. Here numerous

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mills are kept in active operation by the powerful currents, which bring down abundant materials to employ them. Above these are long rafts, or floating bridges, called buoys, formed of logs, connected strongly together, and stretched from bank to bank, to stop the floating timber. Men are continually employed with boats, in the spring, in bringing it to the shore as it comes down; and great care is taken to dispose of each stick according to the direction of the owner, whose name is known from the mark. The millers, with their circular saws and other machines, saw whole rafts of logs into millions of planks, boards, shingles, staves, headings, &c.; and vessels, lying at the foot of the falls, readily receive their cargoes of lumber from the doors of the mills, slid down upon their decks and into their holds; and, hoisting sail, steer away for many a distant harbor.

HISTORY.-The Jesuits in Lower Canada early began their intercourse with the Indian tribes in Maine, and soon established a mission on the Penobscot, which, according to custom, became a centre of intrigue and of military operations against the New England settlements. It was at length cut off by an expedition from Massachusetts, by which, in a sudden attack, the Jesuit chief, Ralle, was killed. The remnants of the Penobscot tribe are, to this day, chiefly Roman catholics. Previously to the landing in Massachusetts bay, a colony was commenced on the coast of Maine, by Gorges and Mason, under a grant from the council of Plymouth, England, to whom the territory had been granted by King James I., in 1606. The first settlements made, at Damariscotta and a few other points on the coast, were soon abandoned; and few traces are to be found of any of them. Few motives were offered to colonists, to counterbalance the inhospitable nature of the country, the severity of the cliinate, and the exposure to interference from the Indians and French.

Two or three miles from the road that leads between Linniken's bay and Damariscotta river, where was formerly an Indian burying-place, the remains

of cellar-walls and chimneys are found. as also broken kettles, wedges, &c. At the head of the bay are the hulks of two or three large vessels sunk in the water; and on the shore, the ruins of an old gristmill, where the present one stands. On the islands opposite the town, are other ruins, the history of which is unknown, as is also that of those already mentioned. The following interesting facts afford a guide to their origin.

In the year 1605, Captain Weymouth, of Plymouth, in England, returned from an unsuccessful voyage made for the discovery of a northwest passage, bringing with him five American savages, whom he had taken on board in the Penobscot river. Sir Fernando Gorges felt so much interest in these men from a new world, that, to use his own language, he “seized upon" them, and had three of them in his own family for three years; and "this accident must be acknowledged as the means, under God, of putting on foot and giving life to all our plantations." He obtained much information from the Indians, and became, from that time, deeply interested in schemes for the settlement of the New World, and an active member of the Plymouth company.

The first settlement was attempted by Englishmen, on the Kennebec, at the early date of 1609, the same year as that of Jamestown. King James having, by request, granted a patent, in 1606, dividing the coast into North and South Virginia, this part of Maine was embraced in the former, which extended from the 38th to the 45th degree of north latitude. While Gosnold, with Captain Smith for || his agent, commenced planting a colony at Jamestown, Captains George Popham and Raleigh Gilbert led another to the mouth of the Kennebec. They landed near the island of Monheagan, a few leagues east of that river, and soon after entered the stream, and stopped at an island near its eastern shore, now forming a part of Georgetown. As ChiefJustice Popham had procured an accurate survey of the river the year before, it is probable that this place was chosen in England, before the sailing of the expedition.

But the history of this colony is short

י,

In the southwestern parts of the state are several scenes of the later and more permanent settlements.

and melancholy. As it did not arrive siderably with the savages for beaveruntil August, there was not sufficient skins, &c. time to complete the necessary preparations for the winter, which set in early and with rigor. A fort was erected, but many arrangements, important to the comfort of the people, could not be made; and, as the ships returned in December, about half of the number embarked in them, apprehending severe sufferings from the cold and the want of food. Part of the buildings and provisions were soon after destroyed by fire; and Captain Popham died before spring. The first ships brought the news of the decease of the chief-justice; and the painful intelligence of the death of a brother rendered it necessary for Captain Gilbert to return to England. The remaining colonists, becoming disheartened, abandoned their enterprise; and, the place being deserted, the Plymouth company did not repeat the experiment.

Gorges, one of the most intelligent and devoted friends of America among the members of the Plymouth colony, endeavored in vain to induce them to send out a second colony. Unwilling, however, to see the object wholly abandoned, he engaged in private enterprises for trading with the natives and fishing; and, in 1616, sent out a party, under the command of Richard Vines, to explore this part of the coast. They penetrated into the country, and were kindly treated; but they found the people suffering from the smallpox, and the hostile attacks of the Tarrantines, a nation east of the Penobscot. They met with the Indians who had been in England, and received special marks of favor from them. On the approach of winter, which they had agreed to spend in the country, they chose a spot on the western side of Saco river, at its mouth. Some of them took up a hundred acres of land on lease from Vines, one of which was for a thousand years, at the annual rent of two shillings and one capon, after the payment of a previous compensation. The lease, partly in Latin, was executed in 1638. A considerable trade was carried on here for some years, the colonists employing themselves both in agriculture and in fishing, besides trading con

Pegipscot Falls.-Near Lewistown, on the Androscoggin river, is a remarkable cataract, where the current breaks through a range of mountains, and pours over a broken ledge of rocks. The scene is wild and striking, and derives an additional interest from its connexion with the history of a tribe of Indians long since extinct. According to a tradition current in the neighborhood, the upper parts of this stream were formerly the residence of the Rockmego Indians, who inhabited a fine and fertile plain through which the river winds. The situation was remote, and they had never engaged in any hostilities with the whites, but devoted themselves to hunting and fishing. The ground still contains many remains of their weapons, utensils, &c. They were, however, at length persuaded to engage in a hostile incursion against Brunswick, at that time an exposed frontier settlement; and the whole tribe embarked in their canoes to accomplish the enterprise. The stream flows gently on for a great distance, until it approaches very near to the falls; and this was the spot appointed for the night encampment. Night set in before their arrival; and they sent two men forward to make fires upon the banks a little above the cataract. For some unknown reason, the fires were kindled below the falls; and the Indians, being thus deceived concerning their situation, did not bring up their canoes to the shore in season, and were carried over the rocks, and the tribe all destroyed together.

It was along the valley of the Kennebec that the expedition, formed in the winter of 1775-'6, for the capture of Quebec, proceeded. The hardships they endured were very severe, as the country at that time was wholly destitute of inhabitants through almost the whole route, after leaving the seacoast, until approaching the valley of the St. Lawrence. The plan had been formed and adopted while the American army was

LOWER WELLES.-There is a little harbor here, defended by a sandbar, with a narrow entrance under a rock; but it is almost dry at low water.

engaged in the siege of Boston, and The Nubble is a rocky point, four and General Montgomery was placed at the a half miles from York, and Cape Nedhead of it. Benedict Arnold was among dock lies beyond. While travelling the most active of the officers. After along this dreary country, the road passnumerous delays, caused by the difficules the site of an old fort or blockhouse, ties of navigation and transportation, built before Philip's war. The Agacold and hunger, they arrived at the menticus hills form a range some disFrench settlements; but being unable tance west. to proceed with desirable rapidity, or to cross the St. Lawrence immediately after reaching its shore, the inhabitants had time to make preparations; and, instead of taking the city by surprise, and at once finding comfortable quarters, they were able only to encamp on the heights of Abraham, after scaling the precipitous shore at Wolfe's cove, with an army between them and the walls. This un- Three miles beyond is Breakneck hill, fortunate expedition failed, after losing over which falls a small stream, from the their commander, who was killed in an height of thirty feet, about forty yards unsuccessful attempt to gain the lower from the path. The old fort was half a town by a night attack, and Arnold, with mile beyond, or a quarter of a mile from a large division o the forces, who were the church. This little fortress was once made prisoners in an assault on the up-attacked by five hundred Indians, who per town. at first supposed, as was the fact, that the men were absent from home. The place was, however, very bravely and successfully defended by five women, dressed in their husband's clothes.

WELLES. The sea often breaks beautifully on the beach, in front of the tavern. Porpoise point is just distinguishable in the northeast, and the view of the sea is fine and refreshing.

The first newspaper in Maine was printed on January 1, 1785. It was called the Falmouth Gazette and Weekly Advertiser," and published at Falmouth (now Portland), by Benjamin PORTLAND.-The situation of this Titcomb and Thomas B. Wait, on a demy place is remarkably fine, occupying the sheet. Its name was changed to the ridge and side of a high point of land, Cumberland Gazette," in 1786. The with a handsome though shallow bay on second was commenced in the same one side, and the harbor on the other. town, in 1790, called the "Maine Ga- The anchorage is protected on every zette," by Benjamin Titcomb, and con- side by land, the water is deep, and the tinued till 1796; at which time there communication with the sea direct and were but three newspapers in Maine, convenient. Congress street runs along one of them at Hallowell, and one at the ridge of the hill, and contains a Augusta. In 1810, there were eight newspapers, and, in 1850, fifty-six.

The first daily paper was begun at Portland, October 13, 1829, and called the "Daily Courier;" and the second, the "Daily Evening Advertiser," in 1831.

YORK.-There are some pleasant fields about this little place, but its size is insignificant, when compared with the anticipations formed of its destiny at the time of its first settlement; for the ground was laid out for streets, and the divisions of the land still retain much of the regular form given it by the first surveyors. Population, about 3,500

number of very elegant private houses.
There is also the town-hall, with the
market below, and a beautiful church,
with granite columns.
The steps are
fine blocks of granite, six by nine feet,
brought from the quarry at Brunswick,
twenty-two miles distant.

From the observatory, south and southwest, are seen several distant eminences: among others, the Agamenticus hills; northwest are seen, in clear weather, the lofty ridges and peaks of the White hills in New Hampshire, which are discovered at sea often before the nearer land appears in sight.

Cape Elizabeth is the highland on the

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