No. 8, ARGYLL PLACE, REGENT STREET, LONDON. No. 345. JANUARY 1, 1875. VOL. 29. ON DISPROPORTION. (Continued from page 61.) Diagram 3 is intended to show the requirements of such a figure as that we described at the end of the portion of this article which appeared in our last month's number-viz., a man with his spine considerably curved at the centre of his back. The spine being curved, as the natural result of all curves, acquires a greater length than when in a straight condition. The required deviation is, therefore, obvious. Cut the back across the shoulders, and open it, accordingly, to the extent of the curve (as shown by the feint or dotted lines), keeping it in the same position at the back-scye; the requisite length is thus obtained without in any degree affecting the other points of the coat. As we before stated, this kind of disproportion is most generally attended by a stooping position, in which case the forepart requires to be straightened and shortened in the manner already described; but it is by no means a rule that a figure with a curved spine should stoop, though this very defect gives it the appearance of so doing. By far the greater number of persons whom we term stooping figures are those who do not bend in the body, but carry the head very forward, with a slight curvature of the upper joints of the spinal column. The deviation required for these figures is frequently very trifling, and sometimes the defect exists so entirely in the position of the neck, that it is only in the working of the collar that any alteration need be made; taking care to draw it well in at the crease-edge, especially at the back, so that it may not stand away behind. Others will require about half an inch rounded off suddenly at the top of the back-seam. It is not necessary that the back should be cut any narrower at the top, as whatever is taken off at the back-seam may be added to the shoulder-seam, and again taken off the strap of the forepart. There is another kind of disproportion (although |