ment, each man taking with him his trusty rifle and accoutrements. It was a touching evidence of the influence of our free democratic institutions, to see these rough old trappers, whose lives had been passed with Indians and wild beasts, rally around the flag of their native land, to which they owed nothing but the accident of birth, and that abiding love of liberty and independence which is inherent in our people. Nor was the devotion of the settlers from the old world less worthy of admiration. They had sought in the far-off wilderness a refuge from oppression, and found that they had fallen under a worse despotism than they had left at home. When therefore a fair opportunity occurred for dealing a death-blow to the dominion of the mock republic of Mexico, these sons of Europe flew to arms with an enthusiasm unknown to the reluctant tools of tyrants. We could do no more than select the most youthful and hardy of these gallant men, who were hastily organized into a battalion, under Captain (since Colonel) Fremont, and marched eagerly to meet the enemy in the field. Many of these new recruits had withheld their support from the "Bear Party," which did not seem to them to possess stability.

All were now busily employed in placing the small military resources of the country in a state of efficiency, and in the course of a month the United States had virtual possession of Upper California. The courage and skill of the foreigners raised them in the esteem of the Californians, who had hitherto looked upon them as mere traders, inferior to themselves-a delusive idea growing out of the superiority in horsemanship and skill in the use of the lance and riata, possessed by the Californians. The colonial system of Spain had also taught the people to despise all industrial pursuits connected with traffic, in order that they might draw their supplies of goods from the mother country, and leave their commerce wholly in her hands.

Commodore Stockton soon took command in the place of Commodore Sloat, who returned to the United States by way of Panama. Vigorous measures were taken by the new commander for the total subjugation and occupation of the country. There being no officers of the army in the country, except Colonel Fremont, the officers of the navy and marine corps were obliged for the present to perform their duties on shore, both as officers of the newlyraised Californian battalion and as civil magistrates. It fell to my lot to exchange the quarter-deck for the saddle, having been ordered to take command of the district on the north side of the bay, garrisoned by Company B, California Battalion Mounted Riflemen. Although I had often before done duty on shore with my "charge of foot," this was the very first time I had ever served in the cavalry— and albeit not exactly a "horse marine," I found this kind of life far more to my taste than remaining on board ship, in a war with an enemy incapable of opposing us in our proper element.

On taking charge of the military post of Sonoma, I mustered my troop and found the whole force to consist of fifty men, mostly Americans, besides the usual complement of non-commissioned officers, a trumpet, a smith, and ten Indian horse boys. Our head-quarters were at the village of Sonoma, in a pleasant situation, on the line of communication with San Francisco and the Sacramento valley, being central as between those points and Bodega and Ross, on the coast. Our barracks were roomy and commodious, and we had an abundant supply of horses.

Although my men were not uniformed, they were well equipped, each having his own private arms; and they were a hardy-looking company, consisting mostly of farmers and their sons, and laborers who lived in the neighborhood, and to whom it was more convenient to serve on this station than to go South with Fremont. The greater part were dressed in buckskin shirts and leggins, fringed and orna

80

SUNDRY MATTERS.

mented in the most approved and tasteful fashion of the backwoods toilet. Several suits, made by the Sioux Indians, were very handsome, being laced with richly-dyed porcupine quills, and faced with beaver and muskrat furs. Others, again, wore suits which appeared to have been discarded from Chatham street; and one handsome young fellow, with long locks and sentimental eyes, sported a butterfly waistcoat and railroad trowsers, which, though sadly dilapidated, had figured extensively in the "social halls" bordering on our western waters-the now empty pockets having doubtless fobbed many an ante." His very arms bespoke the fallen fortunes of a young man about town; for, too indolent or careless to bear the long and heavy rifle, which was the chief weapon of his comrades, he carried a light and handsome yager, daintily mounted with silver, and his bowie knife, although as heavy as any in the troop, was encased in a stained crimson velvet sheath. To crown all, his head was conscious of what had once been an exquisite "ventillating gossamer," but which now was reduced to the level of that peculiar description of castor, familiarly known as "a shocking bad hat."

After establishing the usual routine of the patrols, scouts, &c., I found that I should have abundant leisure to make observations, ample opportunities being afforded by the nature of my duties, which led me to visit all parts of this district of Upper California, which I consider the finest portion even of this universally magnificent country. When I first took command, anything like an organized resistance on the part of the rancheros to the forces of the United States, had entirely ceased throughout California, except at the Pueblo de Los Angeles, where Castro was encamped, in a fortified position, awaiting the arrival of a part of the American garrison from Monterey, which had been withdrawn, and embarked for a pleasure excursion to that part of the country, with a view of making a call on the Mexican hero. The roads, however, were unsafe in all direc

GARCIA'S RANCHO.

81

tions, the expresses frequently stopped, and predatory excursions made in various directions by small parties of

hijos del pais," pretending to act under Castro's orders, and led by his ex-office-holders. These rascals annoyed the well-affected rancheros, and persons disposed to remain neutral, by stealing horses and helping themselves to cattle, farm servants, &c.-all for the sake of "la patria." Although the band which, under the lead of Juan de Padilla, had murdered the young men, Fowler and Cowan, had broken up and dispersed, some to join Castro, and others, less guilty, to seek their ranchos: a few of the disaffected were prowling around my district, and in pursuit of a party of these I made an excursion to the Punta de los Reyes, which extends into the sea just north of San Francisco bay. Our party of sixteen men, provided with Indian guides, started out at night from Sonoma, and making a detour to conceal our destination, bivouacked that night in the hills near the Laguna San Antonio. Early the next morning we started again, and at sunset, after a hard day's travel, by bye-paths, arrived at the rancho of Rafael Garcia. Here I found that the party I was in search of had moved off to another part of the district, having been so closely followed by some of my men that they left behind a bullock they had killed for dinner. Rushing into the house we found their hats hanging up there, which we took prisoners, as well as six loaded carbines they had left in their hot haste to be off. We also took twenty-four fine horses, which they had collected from the neighboring ranchos.

.

After enjoying Garcia's hospitality for the night, we found, on rising next morning, several of the neighboring rancheros, who had arrived, on their way to the Punta de los Reyes, for the purpose of hunting the elk, with which it abounds. Sending all my men, except two, back to Sonoma, I resolved to remain and witness the sport; and, getting fresh horses from Señor Garcia, we started for the point. I observed that the Spaniards had no arms; but

82

ELK HUNT AT PUNTA REYES.

they pointed to the riata, the unfailing companion of all rancheros, and exclaimed, “este es el rifle del ranchero !”. this is the ranchero's rifle. On our way, however, I observed one of the party dismount, near a small grove, and selecting a straight light pole, take from beneath his sarape a crescent-shaped weapon, which he fixed to the top of the pole. This instrument they call, from its shape, the "luna," and it is used for hamstringing the elk, which then falls an easy prey to the hunter.

The cool, bracing air of the morning, promised us fine sport, as the horses, on whose exertions the sport mainly depends, would not be exhausted from the heat. But, as the Irishman devoutly remarked, "Providence never opens one door but it shuts another,"-a reflection verified in the present instance, by the rising of a dense fog, which prevented us from seeing any considerable distance, and forced us to be circumspect in picking our way over a very broken and hilly part of country. Crossing a deep valley, up which I could not see for the mist, we surmounted a high hill, and I saw in a moment that we stood on an isthmus or neck of land, connecting a lofty promontory-lying right before us with the main land. At the same time I discerned the sea on either hand, and heard the musical roar of the surf, as it tumbled ashore on the right. Suddenly one of my men exclaimed, in a low tone, "hush!" and, rifle in hand, dismounted for a shot. Following the direction of his glance, towards the promontory, I perceived a band of elk, which must have numbered not less than four hundred head of superb fat animals-the apparently cumbrous horns of the bucks thrown back on their shoulders, and the leaders seeming to hesitate whether it should be a fight or a foot race. Pacific councils, however, prevailed, and the whole body were soon in full retreat, the old bucks occasionally stopping to gaze at us, while the does and fawns made the best of their way up the slope. Our horses scenting them at the same time-for the horses of California scent large