While at Laramie we met Kit Carson, the noted hunter, trapper, Indian fighter and chief guide to Gen. John C. Fremont in his explorations in the Far West. Three years later I traveled with him for several months, of which I will speak hereafter. Most of his life had been spent in the Indian country, and at that time his home was at Taos, N. M. A book entitled the "Prairie Flower" had been published, giving an exaggerated and highly colored account of his life and exploits, embodying more of the features of a novel than a truthful narrative. Being of a modest, retiring disposition, and not seeking notoriety, he was not at all pleased with the publication. He was best and widest. known of all the old mountaineers, many of whom, from Lewis and Clarke to Bridger and Shambo, will always have an honorable place in the history of the frontier life that has led American civilization.

We found the Sioux tribe of Indians in many respects to be far superior to the Pawnees. Intellectually. and physically they were the finest body of Indians we met with on the plains. They were more cleanly in their habits and possessed large bands of horses and a few cattle, and showed more evidences of some of the better habits of civilization than any other tribe. Occasionally a white man was seen among them with a numerous family. It was a noticeable fact that the Indians nearest the borders of our western settlements acquired the worst vices of the whites and retrograded instead of advancing by the contact. Only under these conditions is it strictly true that "the only good Indian is a dead Indian." The Sioux were brave, adventurous and reserved, neither manifesting nor encouraging familiarity. The males dressed in their native costumes, but

the red blankets furnished by the government were conspicuous among the women. On one occasion a large party mounted on ponies, apparently returning from a hunt, was seen approaching in the distance, and as they came near they made some hostile demonstrations by whooping and flourishing their bows and arrows. They rode to the head of our train and, dismounting, seized the leaders by their bridles, thereby stopping the entire train. Captain Hardy, with a few others, went forward and after a short parley with them, they spread a blanket upon the ground and we placed some food and a few presents upon it, such as we had brought with us expressly to distribute among the Indians, for in such emergencies we believed it better to conciliate them by friendly treatment than to make them enemies. as others had sometimes done. After leaving Laramie to enter the Black Hills, feed became scarce, in consequence of the large number of trains preceding us, and we were compelled to break up into smaller parties. Ours consised of ten men and four wagons. The only physician, Dr. Kirkbride, was one of our number. The only feed to be obtained for our stock was bunch or buffalo grass, and that, at times, only at long intervals. Not infrequently we found it necessary to leave our wagons by the roadside and take our animals one or two miles to find grazing.

CHAPTER III.

STILL AMONG INDIANS.

In parting company with our companions, with whom we had traveled nearly one-third of our journey, friendly ties were severed, possibly a few to be renewed after many months when our destination should be reached at the "diggins," but the majority, taking different routes and "cutoffs" after reaching the western slope of the Rockies, were seen no more.

Many died from sickness on the forepart of the trip, and before the end was reached many others succumbed to fatigue, worn down by the hardships they endured. Some belated emigrants who were caught in the snows of the Sierras perished before relief could reach them. A few were killed by the Indians.

The Utes were found more crafty and treacherous than any other tribe we had encountered. These Indians occupied the region around Salt Lake and a large portion of what is now the State of Utah. They had imbibed to some extent the spirit of some of the Mormon leaders toward those not of their faith. The Blackfeet, Arapahoe, Snake and Crow Indians were friendly. Whenever they went upon the warpath they felt at least that they had grievances to redress. There were those among the various tribes who, like their

more enlightened and civilized brothers, would steal horses and commit other crimes. Against such we had constantly to be on our guard.

A peculiar characteristic of Indian life was their improvidence. They were often driven to such an extremity for food that they ate every kind of insect and every creeping thing however repulsive. Snails, lizards, ants and even lice I have often seen eaten with

apparent relish. Worms, grasshoppers and young wasps taken "fresh" from the comb were considered a great luxury. This was especially true of the Digger Indians, and can be witnessed even in California at the present time. Since the passing of the buffalo and other game, which, previous to the large emigration to Oregon and California, were so abundant, their condition has been pitiable in the extreme. In certain localities where only acorns and pine nuts can be obtained these, for a portion of the year, form their only food. At other seasons they live on seeds and roots.

While on the Platte an invitation was given and accepted to dine with a friendly Indian who had recovered some stolen property. A feast of honor, a dog feast, was being prepared upon our arrival. The dog was in a large pot over the fire in the middle of the lodge, and after we were seated upon buffalo robes it was immediately served up in large wooden bowls, one of which was handed to each. The flesh had something the flavor of mutton. One of the party feeling something move behind him, looked around and found he had take his seat among a litter of fat young puppies. Not wishing to be nice in such matters and let his prejudices interfere with the hospitality extended by the host, he silently continued his meal.

Our stay of two days at the hospitable quarters at Fort Laramie had broken the monotony of our journey. and somewhat improved the condition of our animals. which were worn down by long continued travel on sandy roads, and the growing scarcity of the grass, which formed their entire sustenance. Immediately upon entering the Black Hills we found a better supply of fuel, consisting of scrubby pine and sage brush. The country for 150 miles from Fort Laramie to Willow Springs was broken by ridges and narrow valleys. Here water could be obtained only at long intervals. The north fork of the Platte was not visible from Our route for that entire distance. The third day out, a young man and I were riding on horseback a mile or two in advance of the train, and after passing over a dividing ridge we came suddenly upon a party of about a dozen Cheyenne Indians returning from a hunt, all mounted upon ponies. They were armed mainly with bows and arrows, having only two or three guns. They quickly gathered around and halted us. After a short conference among themselves they inquired by signs our destination. We laughingly told them as well as we could in their sign language that we were looking for Indians and wanted to settle in their country, and also at the same time that we belonged to a train of wagons not far in our rear. This they no doubt believed, as we had no guns, only our revolvers. After a further confab among themselves, whether hostile or friendly to us we could not understand, one Indian galloped his pony to the top of the ridge over which we had just passed apparently to verify our statement. Fortunately our wagons were no great distance away, and when he re