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have shot him, but when I saw that, I could not find it in my heart to do so, but let the old chief carry off his wounded comrade in safety. As we emerged from our shelter, all that could be seen of them were five dead ones, weltering in their blood, bows and arrows and a few scattered feathers and tomahawks lying on the ground."

Our long experience among the different Indian. tribes had taught us that it was better and safer to have their good will by friendly treatment, giving a few beads or other comparatively worthless trinkets, rather than make them enemies by any act of unkindness. There were noted exceptions to this rule both among the white as well as red men, when evil was sometimes returned for kindness. Human nature is about the same the world over.

As we approached Echo canyon, leading directly to the Mormon settlement, we found feed and water more abundant and this continued its entire length. The descent was gradual and in no place through the range was the road very rough or abrupt and there. was but little timber. Many singular and curious formations were observed, the most noted of which were Witches' Monument and Pulpit rock. All of these have since become subjects of illustrations.

The lower portion of the canyon broadens into a valley of considerable width and was already occupied by a number of Mormon families, with patches of grain and vegetables and some live stock. It was a most welcome sight to us, and brought vividly to mind our own prairie homes in the "far west." The first habitation at which we arrived, and to which we were especially attracted by a number of children

playing around, was a small structure built of sundried brick. We halted our little cavalcade and made the excuse that we wanted a drink of water in order to interview the tenants, although a clear mountain stream ran near by. The matron, a neat, comely looking woman, appeared at the door, and after we had made our request known, asked if we would not prefer a drink of buttermilk, saying she had just been churning. To this we all cheerfully assented. It was indeed an unexpected treat. We offered her compensation for her kindness, but it was refused with "You are quite welcome." From that day whenever I heard polvgamous or Mormon women denounced by "gentile" writers or speakers, I have never failed to remember that kindly act of the first Mormon woman we met. Well did Jesus the Christ say: "Whosoever shall give you a cup of water to drink in my name shall not lose his reward."

The good woman inquired where we were from and spoke cheering words as we took our leave. We had not gone far when a better and more extended view of the valley and farm houses came in sight, and Captain Hardy, who was in front, commenced to sing that familiar song, in which we all heartily joined:

"How dear to my heart are the scenes of my childhood,
When fond recollections present them to view,
The orchard, the meadow, the deep tangled wildwood,
And every loved spot which my infancy knew”—.

A few miles farther on we came in sight of the city of "God's Anointed," His "Latter Day Saints." In the distance the broad expanse of water, which we knew to be the Great Salt Lake, dotted with islands, made a picture of beauty that compensated us for much.

of the hardships we had endured. Upon entering the town we inquired for a good camping ground, and were informed that three miles distant, on the bottoms of the "River Jordan," good feed could be found, to which place we proceeded and made camp just as the last golden rays of the setting sun were gilding the peaks of the mountains to the east of the valley.

Our stock of provisions, with which he had left Independence Rock a month before, was exhausted, but we could obtain here whatever we desired, including milk, excellent butter and fresh vegetables. We spread our blankets under a cottonwood tree and slept the sleep of the (just) "gentiles," by which name all were known outside of the Mormon church.

Here we remained three weeks, recruiting our thin and jaded animals and laying in a fresh supply of provisions before taking the "fool's cut-off" across the northern part of the Great American desert. On that cut-off one of our party was shot to death with arrows while searching for water in the Humboldt mountains, the account of which I will describe in due time

CHAPTER VI.

SALT LAKE.

It is not my purpose to write a detailed account of my second overland trip in 1853. The same route was followed as in 1850 as far as Salt Lake. I will mention some of the most memorable events of that trip farther on.

Prior to 1843 the existence of the great Salt Lake was practically unknown. Vague rumors of a large inland sea on the confines of the great American desert had reached the frontier settlements from reports of French voyagers and trappers, but not until General (then Captain) Fremont visited this remote and unknown region was the question of its existence set at rest.

I quote from Fremont's journal the interesting and instructive account of his discovery and approach to the lake, in the year above mentioned, contained in the official report he subsequently made to the Secretary of the Interior. Fremont and his party had fol lowed the course of Bear river from near its source in the Wind River mountains, a distance of 400 miles. "The night previous to reaching its outlet we camped near several families of 'root diggers,' living among the rushes, who appeared very busy with weirs or nets

rudely made of canes and rushes for the purpose of catching fish. They were very much startled at our approach, but their fears were soon calmed, and finding they had some roots, I sent some men with goods to trade with them.

"They were almost entirely naked, looking very poor and miserable, as if their lives had been spent in the rushes where they were, beyond which they seemed to have very little knowledge of anything. My men purchased a small quantity of roots and meat, which they indicated was bear meat. Leaving the encampment early, we directed our course for a high peninsular 'butte' across a low, shrubby plain. Before us was evidently the bed of a lake, being a salt marsh, perfectly level and bare, with here and there a pool of water, and having the appearance of a level seashore at low tide. We proceeded in the direction of the 'butte,' still several miles distant, as it would probably afford a good view of the lake. We finally succeeded in reaching it without much difficulty, and, ascending to the summit, immediately at our feet beheld the object of our anxious search, the waters of the inland. sea, stretching in still and solitary grandeur far beyond the limit of our vision. It was one of the great points of our exploration, and as we looked eagerly over the lake in the first emotions of excited pleasure I am doubtful if the followers of Balboa felt more enthusiasm when from the heights of the Andes they saw for the first time the great western ocean. It was certainly a magnificent object and a noble terminus to this part of our expedition, and to travelers so long shut up among mountain ranges a sudden view over the expanse of silent waters had in it something

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