With the completion of the Oregon Central Railroad, now under construction, connecting with the Central Pacific in California, the contemplated Columbia River Valley Road, connecting Portland with the Union Pacific, by the way of Salt Lake, and with a branch of the Northern Pacific to connect this point with Puget Sound, Portland will attain a proud commercial position. The present population of the city is about 10,000.

The other towns of importance on the Willamette are Salem, the capital, 80 miles south of Portland, with a population of 4,000, Oregon City, Oswego, Albany, Corvallis, and Eugene City, with a population of from 1,500 to 2,000 each. The principal towns on the Columbia are Astoria, Ranier, St. Helen's, Vancouver, Dalles City, Umatilla, and Hollula. All of these towns, from their favorable location, are destined to become places of considerable commercial importance. The local land offices of this State are at Roseburg, Eugene City, and Le Grand.

The next political division of the republic, south of and adjoining Oregon, fronting the Pacific Ocean, is

CALIFORNIA.

This State having been introduced to the world through the discovery of its precious metals in 1848, it is only recently that the value and importance of her vast and varied agricultural and other industrial resources, aside from minerals, have been properly understood and appreciated. The geographical position of California, with reference to commerce, is unrivaled, the State possessing a genial climate of unparalleled salubrity, with a soil of unexampled fertility, diversified with beautiful plains, enchanting valleys, undulating hills, and rugged mountains, is only rivaled in extent of territory by Texas.

California is a long parallelogram, extending from latitude 32° 45′ to 420, is 700 miles in length, with an average breadth of 200 miles, and contains 188,981 square miles or 120,947,840 acres, of which 32,338,378 acres have been surveyed.

Excluding the area granted by the General Government for different purposes, also the surface covered by Spanish and Mexican titles, and the quantity embraced in sales and locations, there yet remain 100,070,177.16 acres of public land within the limits of the State liable to disposal. Of the total surface of California it is estimated 90,000,000 acres are susceptible of diversified agriculture, or of otherwise being made productive.

The Coast Range of mountains, though not so high or so wide as the Sierra Nevada, may properly be considered the principal natural feature of California. They extend the whole length of the State, nearly parallel with the ocean, at an average distance therefrom of about 50 miles. The height varies from 2,000 to 6,000 feet, with a width of from 20 to 40 miles. The State may be geographically divided into the coast and interior districts, separated from each other by the Coast Mountains. The former comprises the coast valleys, separated from each other by spurs of the mountains, generally running at right angles therewith. The latter embraces the Sacramento basin, the plateau of the Sierra Nevada, the Klamath basin, the Great Basin of Utah, and the Colorado Desert.

The rivers of the Coast Mountains south of San Francisco are generally small streams, and, with the exception of the Salinas, are usually swallowed up in the sands before reaching the ocean. There are none navigable except the Salinas, and that only for a short distance from its mouth by light-draught vessels. North of San Francisco the main streams

rising in the Coast Mountains are the Russian, Elk, and Smith Rivers, but none of these are navigable.

The only lake of importance in this section is Clear Lake, 20 miles long and 10 wide, surrounded by a charming little valley of fertile land. The valley is bounded on all sides by high mountains, with scenery very attractive.

California has four land-locked harbors, viz., San Diego, San Francisco, Tomales, and Humboldt. Their general course is nearly parallel with the coast, and separated from the ocean by narrow peninsulas.

San Diego, near the southern boundary of the State, is 12 miles long and from 1 to 2 wide. It has a channel 30 feet deep and half a mile in width. It forms a secure harbor at all seasons of the year, and is next to that of San Francisco in importance.

San Francisco Harbor, one of the most magnificent in the world for commercial purposes, is about 8 miles wide and 50 long. Its entrance at the Golden Gate, or Chrysopolis, is a mile in width. The water on the bar at low tide is 30 feet, and inside much deeper, with excellent anchorages and room for all the shipping of the world.

Tomales and Humboldt, north from San Francisco, are each fine and safe ports for vessels at most seasons of the year. Their harbors are each about 12 miles long and from 2 to 5 in width.

There are other harbors on the coast, not land-locked, which are safe at certain seasons of the year, and might be made perfectly secure by artificial means; among these are San Pedro, San Luis Obispo, Monterey, and Santa Cruz, all south of San Francisco, and Drakes, Bodega,. Trinidad, and Crescent City, north of the Golden Gate.

The Sacramento River flows into Suisun Bay, which is connected with the bay of San Pablo and San Francisco by the Carquinez Straits. It is navigable for steamers drawing three feet of water to Sacramento City, 135 miles from San Francisco, at all seasons, and to Red Bluffs for boats drawing fifteen inches. The Feather River is navigable for steamers drawing fifteen inches of water to Marysville, 75 miles from Sacramento, and boats have ascended in a high stage of water to Oroville, 25 miles further north.

The San Joaquin can be regularly navigated by steamers drawing five feet of water to Stockton, a distance of 130 miles from San Francisco,. and in times of high water light-draught vessels can ascend to Fresno City, 150 miles further.

The Sierra Nevada Range of mountains, near the eastern boundary of the State, is 450 miles in length in California, and 70 wide, with a. height varying from 5,000 to 8,000 feet above the level of the sea; the greater portion of the range is heavily timbered. The oak, manzanita,. and nut pine cover the sides to the height of 2,500 feet, and then the coniferous trees appear, and are found in dense forests to a height of 6,000 feet. Nearly the whole width of the Sierras is occupied with its western slope, which descends to a level of 300 feet above the ocean, whereas the slope on the eastern side is but 5 or 6 miles wide, and terminates abruptly in the Great Utah Basin, which is from 4,000 to 5,000 feet above the sea. The picturesque scenery throughout all this Sierra Range is on a scale grand beyond description, hundreds of lofty peaks, varying in height from 1,000 to 14,000 feet above the level of the sea, piled one above the other like stepping-stones to other regions, are truly sublime and majestic, far surpassing that of Switzerland, which for ages has been famed for possessing the largest body of elevated land and the greatest number of mountain peaks. While Switzerland has only four peaks above 13,000 feet, and but 150 square miles above 8,000 feet, the

Sierra Nevada has 100 peaks above 10,000 feet, and 300 square miles above 8,000 feet.

The loftiest peak of the Sierras is Mount Shasta, which rises in the northern portion of the State to a height of 14,390 feet in the region of perpetual snow. It forms the most prominent landmark in California, and may be distinctly seen in all directions at a distance of 100 miles. This mountain, towering in solitary grandeur, with its snow-capped summit glistening in the rays of the sun, appears like a silvery cloud when viewed from Marysville, a distance of 125 miles. It is of volcanic origin, and still emits sulphurous vapors from its summit. Among other prominent peaks are Lassens Buttes, Castle Peak, Downieville Buttes, and Pilot Peak.

The rivers of this range run westward at right angles to the course of the chain, and cut it into steep and deep ravines, cañons, and chasms. The valleys are usually small, and it is rare to see 100 acres compact sufficiently level for tillage.

In the southern portion of the State, in the vicinity of Mount St. Bernardino, are the Mojave and Owen Rivers, the former about 100 miles in length, and the latter, after running 75 miles along the foot of the Sierra Nevada, terminates in Owen Lake, which is 15 miles long by 9 wide. North of Owen Lake 100 miles is situated Mono Lake, 8 miles long and 6 miles in width, sometimes called the "Dead Sea of CaliforNo fish can live in the water, which contains such large quantities of saline substances that the human body floats with ease on its surface. This section of country is generally sterile, and for the most part unproductive.

In the basin of the Colorado River, in the southeastern portion of the State, usually termed the "Colorado Desert," the soil in some sections is composed of sand packed together firmly, with a smooth surface, which reflects light like a mirror. The Colorado River is navigable to Fort Yuma, 75 miles from its mouth.

The natural scenery of California is extensive and grand beyond description. The high snow peaks of the Sierras, before alluded to, the rivers meandering through large and fertile valleys, wide bays, forests of the largest and most graceful evergreens, parks of majestic oaks, natural meadows covered with rich grasses and flowers, combined with a remarkably pure and clear atmosphere, are all attractive in the extreme. In the Yosemite Valley may be found more scenes of grandeur and beauty than in any equal space on the globe. The valley is a chasm in the Sierra Nevada, 4,000 feet above the sea, 10 miles in length, with an average of 3 in width, shut in by walls of rocks almost perpendicular, from 2,000 to 4,500 feet high, and has, within a radius of 5 miles, 5 cascades, ranging from 400 to 2,000 feet. These falls, sometimes called by the Indian name Chalock, are, so far as height is concerned, the greatest cataracts in the world. They are situated about 120 miles due east from San Francisco. This valley has, by congressional enactment, been granted to the State as a place of public resort. Another point of great natural interest is the Mammoth Tree Grove, situated in Mariposa County, 20 miles distant from the Yosemite. The grove contains 427 trees, ranging from 20 to 34 feet in diameter, and from 275 to 325 feet in height. The mammoth tree is a cone-bearing evergreen, belonging to the botanical genus Sequoia gigantea. It grows in a deep fertile soil, always surrounded by a dense growth of smaller evergreens, such as the pine, fir, spruce, and California cedar. wood is soft, elastic, and straight-grained, light, when dry, and of red color, very durable, and bears a close resemblance to red cedar.

The

Another group of these trees is found in Calaveras County, in San Joaquin Valley; they are about 90 in number and in size from 15 to 33 feet in diameter, proportionately tall. One of these trees, which has fallen, is hollow from the base for a distance of 75 feet, through which a horseman can conveniently ride.

In the valley of the Russian River are situated the Geysers, another of the many wonders of California. They are found in a deep ravine, in a district filled with the marks of violent volcanic action. They consist of a multitude of boiling springs, emitting large quantities of steam, with a hissing, roaring noise. The chief feature of the Geysers is termed the "Steam-pipe," an orifice, of about 8 inches in diameter, in the hillside, from which rises a large volume of steam to a height varying from 50 to 200 feet. The steam roars constantly, sometimes bursting out in puffs louder than an escape-pipe of a steam-engine.

Another remarkable feature of the Geysers is the "Devil's Punchbowl," or "Witches' Cauldron," as it is termed. This is a large hole, six feet in diameter, in the hillside, the liquid in which is black and thick, and always in commotion with the heat. These springs are 1,700 feet above the sea-level.

Agriculture in California constitutes one of the chief elements of wealth and prosperity, and when her unoccupied millions of acres shall be reduced to cultivation, and improved methods of culture shall be introduced, this State must become one of the richest agricultural districts on the globe.

It is estimated that the coast district contains 30,000 square miles of mountains and 20,000 of valleys, and the interior district 80,000 square miles of valleys and plains, and 50,000 of mountains. Of the total area of the State about 2,300,000 acres are under cultivation.

The largest grain-producing valleys are situated in the interior district, or in that portion of the State lying between the Sierra Nevada and Coast Mountains. Those are the San Joaquin, Tulare, Sacramento, Scott, and Shasta Valleys. The first two extend from Stockton to Tejon Pass, 300 miles, and have an average width of 50 miles, embracing an area of 9,600,000 acres, a larger surface than the States of New Jersey, Connecticut, Delaware, and Rhode Island combined. It is estimated that these valleys contain 6,000,000 acres of tillable lands, which estimate does not include land in the hundreds of little valleys in the mountains and foot hills, well adapted to fruit culture, particularly the grape in most of its varieties. The lines of the public surveys have been extended over a large portion of this region during the past year.

It is only since a recent period that these lands have been much sought after by settlers; during the last two years more have been taken up for settlement and cultivation than all the preceding years. The lands bordering on the Stanislaus, Tuolumne, Merced, Fresno, and Chinchilla Rivers are exceedingly fertile, the soil being an alluvial sandy loam enriched for ages by the accumulation of decomposed vegetable matter and mineral washings from the mountains and foothills, is well adapted to the production of the cereals in their greatest perfection. The same is true of the section bordering on King's River and Tulare Lake. Hundreds of thousands of acres, suitable for grazing and stock-raising, are found on the mountains and hillsides. This portion of the State has been a favorite locality for the Spanish and American stock-raisers, the climate being more genial for raising immense herds of stock than in the northern portion. The old Spanish breeds of cattle and horses which roamed in these valleys have been replaced by the introduction of superior American breeds-by pure

blooded horses, Devon and Durham cattle, Spanish and French merino sheep, Berkshire, Suffolk, and Essex hogs.

As an instance of the rapid development of the resources of these valleys and their capacity for producing grain, it may be stated that, in a section of country lying between the Stanislaus and Tuolumne Rivers, containing an area of 230,000 acres, all in one wheat-field, produced during the last year 3,456,000 bushels. Many other localities in this section are shown to be equally productive.

In the Sierra Nevada Mountain regions flanking these valleys dense forests of pine for lumber and valuable woods for mechanical purposes cover thousands of acres; where are also found inexhaustible quarries of marble, quartz, lime, slate, and freestone. This chain of mountains, wearing a somber blue, overlooking these splendid valleys, is one of the most romantic features of the State.

The Sacramento Valley, lying in a northerly direction from Sacramento, is another of the great valleys of the Golden State. It is 300 miles in length with an average of 40 miles in width, and abundantly capable of sustaining a population of one million, being greater in extent than many of the principalities of Germany.

In the southern part of this 'section the land is mostly occupied and under a high state of cultivation. In the northern part immense tracts, suitable to diversified agriculture, still remain open to settlement. About 1,000,000 acres along the bank of the Sacramento River and its tributaries are tule or swamp lands, and might be made highly productive by the construction of levees and canals to keep the river within ts banks, or to relieve it of surplus water when necessary. Large tracts. in the foot-hills of the Coast and Sierras have recently been surveyed.

The Scott and Shasta Valleys, in the northern portion of the State, are each about 30 miles long and 4 wide; they have an elevation of from 3,000 to 4,000 feet above the sea. Wheat, oats, apples, and potatoes do well in this section, but maize and melons require a warmer elimate.

The largest tract of level land in the plateau of the Sierra Nevada is the valley of the Suisun River and Honey Lake; these valleys are at a high elevation, and contain numerous tracts of tillable soil. All along the northwestern slope of the Sierra Nevada there are many tracts of good land heavily timbered and sufficiently level for cultivation. Sierra Valley in this section is 45 miles long by 6 wide, and is drained by a tributary of the Feather River. The soil is usually of red clay or black loam.

The principal valleys in the coast district are the Russian River, Petaluma, Sonoma, Napa, Suisun, Vaca, Diablo, Amador, Santa Clara, Pajaro, and Santa Inez; Russian River Valley produces more maize than all the rest of the State; grapes succeed well. Petaluma Valley is the chief dairy district of California. Sonoma Valley has a soil of red, gravelly clay near the mountains, and a warm sandy loam near the streams. This is the chief grape district in the northern half of the State. Napa Valley, in proportion to its size, has a larger surface under cultivation than any other portion of California. It is a delightful valley, and has many attractive landscapes. Suisun and Vaca Valleys are both under a high state of cultivation. The soil is well adapted to the culture of the cereals, as well as garden and orchard productions.

The soil along the eastern side of the Bay of San Francisco, and in Santa Clara Valley, is the richest in the State, and is termed the garden spot of California. Fruits and vegetables attain an enormous size, and