THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA

Considered as affording a Passage to unite the Pacific with the Atlantie or Western Ocean; and this Passage (if practicable) compared with the Land route, over the Buenos Ayres Plains.

SIR,

To the Editor of the Colonial Journal.

Few subjects of a geographical nature, and great commercial importance, have more interested the enterprizing world, at various periods, than the possibility of opening a canal across the Isthmus of Panama, in order to unite the two oceans; and no discussion, perhaps, ever created more flattering, though mistaken notions. In all our old wars with Spain, numberless projectors laid plans before the British Government, in which the undertaking was not only represented as possible, but also as extremely. easy. For a long time, these statements were believed, nay, enthusiastically believed; so much so, that the Edinburgh Review for January, 1810, contains the following passage:-" In enumerating, however, the advantages of a commercial nature, which would assuredly spring from the emancipation of South America, we have not yet noticed the greatest, perhaps, of all-the mightiest event, probably, in favour of the peaceful intercourse of nations, which the physical circumstances of the globe present to the enterprize of man-I mean, the formation of a navigable passage across the Isthmus of Panama-the junction of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. It is remarkable that this magnificent undertaking, pregnant with consequences so important to mankind, and about which so little is known in this country, is so far from being a romantic and chimerical project, that it is not only practicable, but easy." The writer then goes on to detail the means by which this great work is to be achieved, and afterwards launches out into the advantages which would result to the commercial and civilized world by thus bringing Asia nearer to Europe,

&c.

Had the writer of the foregoing substituted "accurate research" for "delusive speculation," the following remarks might have been unneces sary; but, so late as the year 1810, to see a work like the Edinburgh Review attempt to establish a position equally imaginary as the existence of such a kingdom as El Dorado, argues that the error has been widely extended, and that nothing exists, in print, capable of correcting it, unless it is a few words from Humboldt, to which reference will be afterwards made. So much had this delusive idea gained on the minds of statesmen, that the late Mr. Pitt believed the practicability of the project, and it formed one of the great considerations under which he viewed the independence of the New World. Any correct details, tending to clear up this

curious question, must consequently be deemed acceptable; and, besides, the Isthmus of Panama merits a particular description in the Colonial Journal, because it is a channel through which large quantities of British merchandize are conveyed from Jamaica, for the consumption of Peru, Guayaquil, &c. -a subject that will also be touched upon.

The principal conquerors of South America, particularly those who first visited this spot, in order to enhance their discoveries, and render them more impressive to their Government at home, represented a navigable communication, by the Isthmus of Panama, as not only practicable, but easy; and this scheine was long cherished by the Court of Madrid. Several reports to the same effect were transmitted from time to time to the Council of the Indies, often drawn up by ignorant governors, and always for some interested purpose. Not that it is the object of the present memoir to deny the possibility of partly overcoming similar objections in an enterprizing country, and under other attendant circumstances; but, here, the expense of many millions of money, and the sacrifice of many thousand lives, would only produce a partial result; since, if the country is only surveyed, and its situation fully examined, it will be found, that this must be done by locks and tunnels, on the plan used in China and England for boats; but; as a means to shorten the passage to Asia, or the northwest coast of America, the two main objects in view, the configuration of the spot and other physical circumstances render the success of the undertaking utterly impossible.

That a more perfect idea may be formed of the various obstacles which operate against this great attempt, it will be proper to give a short delineation of the spot, and a description of the country, added to an enumeration of the insurmountable difficulties which present themselves, together with other particulars, which will enable the reader to judge of this curious and interesting question for himself. Not that it is in the power of the writer to furnish a geometrical measurement, or even a scenographical survey of the heights which intervene; but he is, however, enabled to subjoin those most obvious remarks which cannot but strike the observant eye, and those calculations which are convincing to a merchant. He can, at least, present those ideas collected from a recent stay, favourable to the acquisition of information, of thirty-five days in the city of Panama, fourteen at Crucis, and eight at Chagre, for the purposes of conveying over produce; in which operation, many of the difficulties hereafter enumerated, were practically experienced, as well as in the navigation of the river.

The city of Panama, washed by the waters of the Pacific Ocean, is a bishop's see, and considered in the light of a fortified town, being surrounded with walls of free stone. It is situated at the bottom of the gulf of the same name, on a peninsula. A marine gate faces the port, which, by the Spaniards, is called El Puerto de las Piraguas, from its only being capable of receiving boats; and on the other side, facing the isthmus, is another gate, called La Puerta de Tierra, or land-gate, which makes the corresponding situation of the place greatly resemble that of Cadiz. To the south, the town is surrounded and defended by a range of small

islands, and the anchoring-place for vessels lies to the east of one of them," called Perico. Flamineo is another small island, near which ships can also moor, and the distance from the town, which the Spaniards call one league and a half, but which in reality exceeds seven miles, renders it extremely inconvenient for the landing and shipping of goods, and de prives Panama of the consideration of a port, since the harbour can be viewed in no other light than as a roadstead. The island of Perico bas three pearl-fishermens' buts upon it, and that of Flamineo is entirely desert. Here, then, is the first difficulty. Even if the Isthmus were cut across, it would be necessary to open a passage of several miles into the sea, since, in the present situation of the bay, no other than flat-bottomed boats can approach the shore.

The city has several fortifications, in very poor order, and one that is honoured with the name of fortress; but though the artillery is fine, and chiefly consisting of brass pieces, the carriages have in general fallen to decay, through the damps and destructive air of the country, which renders them, in their present state at least, of no great service. The garri son consists of a regiment of regulars, who, from their incomplete state, do not exceed four hundred men. To these is added a handful of militia, formed out of the white, mixed, and Negro population.

Panama does not coutain a single public edifice that deserves notice, or evinces the least display of taste or architecture. This the Panamenians, jealous in the extreme of the honour of their town, say, is owing to the successive fires it has experienced, the greatest of which was in the year 1737, when the whole city was laid in ashes. Such a general desola❤ tion made it necessary hastily to erect slight wooden buildings, to serve the purposes of temporary shelter, and many of them yet remain in their original state, or have only been partially replaced by more solid and sightly structures. The town contains three convents for men, and one for women, and the streets, though regular, are not paved, which at certain seasons renders them extremely dirty.

Since the late wars with the English, however, and particularly during the last fifteen years, many persons have enriched themselves by the contraband trade carried on with Jamaica, in spite of the rigid prohibitory orders from home; several plain, but good stone houses have been built, as well as others of wood, in the form of pavilions, with balconies, in the English Colonial style, a fashion which the inhabitants have borrowed in their late intercourse with the islands. This forms a singular contrast-with the old wooden frames, and makes them appear like so many pigeon houses. These local improvements, and the corresponding acquisition of wealth, being derived from the recent trade carried on with Jamaica, in order to supply the shores of the Pacific with goods, in some measure. makes up for the destruction formerly caused by the adventurers from that same island, whose ravages have been compensated by the late credits given to the merchants of Panama, the great protection they have received from the British flag during the whole of the late war, and the means which have been afforded them to sell to an extensive and populous part of the main continent.

At the distance of three miles, are still to be seen the ruins of Old Panaina, the first city founded on the south side of the great continent of America, and from whence the first equipments for the conquest of Peru and Chili were made. A tower of considerable elevation has particularly withstood the ravages of the enemy and the lapse of time; together with the naked stone walls of several houses and fortifications. This spot was abandoned after the great burning and sacking by Morgan, in 1670, when the inhabitants resolved to fix their future dwellings where the city now stands, and where some population had already settled, consisting principally of fishermen. They fixed their choice of this situation, as well from its being more convenient to the harbour, as because of its being more susceptible of fortification and defence, owing to the position being partly insular.

Panama has a cabildo, or municipality, called los veinte y quatro, from the number of seats being confined to twenty four. In the opinions of the inhabitants, this body is possessed of many honours and distinctions, and the nomination is consequently much sought after. Still the stranger cannot but be forcibly struck at these pre-eminences being merely nominal, for the authority of this body is by no means extensive, or exercised over a class of people from whom much respectability could be derived. An European of any character and consideration, whose fortune may be rated at a few thousands, since talents there would not alone suffice, on marrying a Panama lady, is sure of obtaining the first vacancy of alcade or member of the Cabildo; a nomination that in fact can only excite the ambition of the unlettered adventurer, whose little stock, brought out with him from his native province, may have prospered, and who, by dint of economy more than by industry or ability, has risen into consequence and notice in a distant country, where his own class are few; and whilst at home, perhaps, he would not be counted among the second orders in society, here he may easily stand among the first.

The skirts and purlieus of the town, without the land-gate, are a collection of miserable huts, low, and thatched with palm leaves. The principal street very much resembles those of the generality of the towns belonging to the natives of the coast of Africa; and a representative view, sketched beyond the walls, might be taken for a perspective of the town of Benin, in the district of that name on the coast of Guinea.

The streets in the suburbs are cut up in gullies, which renders it very dangerous to pass them in the night. Heaps of filth also impede the passage, as well as quagmires, in which the hogs, the favourite animal of the Panamenians, wallow, to the great annoyance of the passengers. This scene is rendered still more disgusting by the quantity of squalid and naked negrotings equally basking in the sun, and who appear congenially to share the same enjoyment. Thus is the place rendered more unhealthy than it otherwise would be, owing to the want of cleanliness, the means to preserve which, in a quarter possessed of the convenience of sea water, are certainly easily attained.

The suburbs are larger, and the population greater than in the town; VOL. III.-No. V.

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