obtained by application to the chief, who controls the market and prevents any undue demands. The mountains, constantly fed by the clouds, afford numerous streams; one enters the sea at the landingplace, which, although apparently open to the sea, and edged by reefs on either hand, seldom throws in a ripple to hurt a boat, excepting in the bad season or S.W. monsoon, when the breeze blows in.

The island is infested by myriads of the mantis, which completely strip the cocoa-nut trees of their leaves, and eventually destroy the tree. The tamanu attains a great size; one tree I noticed near Mr. Buzacott's house, divided into two stems, but the bulk at the root would give the entire twelve feet

diameter.

Their state canoes are made from this

tree, and are very beautifully carved. At the island

of Mangea, belonging to this group, they are famed for their carving, particularly in fancy axe-handles, resembling in some degree the Roman fasces; several of which, as well as mats and tapas of native workmanship, and other curiosities, were obtained here.

By perseverance between the showers, we succeeded in obtaining our suite of observations, by which we find that this island is placed on the charts about fifteen miles too far west, and two south, of its actual position.

As the ship could not find any safe anchorage, and Vavao had been selected as a rating position, delay was out of the question; therefore, taking leave of our kind friends, about four P. M. on the 15th, we took our departure with much regret.

The natives are generally well-built, but of a coarser habit than our Tahitan friends. It appears that in addition to the immense mortality which occurred in the time of Mr. Williams, a new nondescript disease has of late years presented itself amongst them, and is entirely confined to the native population. On its early presentation, the first symptoms, merely swelling of the glands of the throat, were considered certain monitors of speedy death, attended with great torture; but latterly it has yielded to treatment. It is thus described by Mr. Hinds, our surgeon, who examined a case said to present a complete type of the disorder.

"The accession is accompanied by the usual

symptoms of fever,-rigors, followed by heat, dryness of skin, and some headache. This either entirely disappears, or assumes an intermitting form, but in both is followed by an affection of the glands of the neck, groin, or axilla, and sometimes by tumours in the small of the back. An enlargement commences, due to chronic inflammation, which gradually increases, until the tumour attains a large size, impeding the functions of the neighbouring parts. In the case I witnessed, the glans of the neck were affected on the right side, and an abscess had burst, leaving a large but superficial ulcer, discharging a thin serous matter. On the opposite side large abscesses were in progress, and the back of the neck was also occupied by another in a less forward state. The patient previously had been a strong healthy man, but the disease had deprived him of all energy, and his limbs were much emaciated. Although the disease did not extend much inwards, he experienced difficulty in speaking, swallowing, or respiring. The progress is slow, but generally fatal. The termination is perhaps assisted by the patient's giving himself up immediately, and neglecting to pursue the remedies prescribed. The missionaries have used the liquor arsenicalis internally, and ointment of hydriodate of potass externally, with partial success. They also regard it as contagious, but this is a character which cannot be admitted except after strong proof. Hitherto no white people have been attacked, nor have I heard of its appearance elsewhere."

The swellings are immense; at first sight appearing like huge wens. In a case which I witnessed the left cheek was continued nearly to the shoulder and back of the neck; and this was in a youth who apparently gave himself little concern about it. This would go far to dispel the impression of contagion, as few would submit to his company, and yet he was always foremost amongst those who pressed round us. I took especial care, however, that he did not come in contact with any of our establishment.

I have before adverted to the customary charge of a certain set of missionaries, and more particularly those of the Sandwich Islands, that the decrease of population is to be ascribed to the intercourse with foreigners. In this island at least we have certain proof that in both visitations, (which have nearly depopulated this island,) foreign intercourse cannot be the cause; and I feel well assured that in the majority of cases, diseases which have baffled the scanty knowledge of pharmacy which the reporters possessed, were conveniently ascribed to suit the hypothesis they were bent on maintaining.

The question naturally arises-Do you speak from personal knowledge? Possibly not to the extent necessary to settle the point. But I do know, that on our visit in 1826 to Pitcairn's Island, we had the opportunity of learning from those who spoke pure English, "that they would suffer severely from our

visit;" that the change from vegetable to animal diet, when visited by strangers, never failed to entail sickness. (Vide Beechey, vol. i. page 94, 95.) This has been noticed by Captain Beechey, but I followed it out at Tahiti, as well as at the Sandwich Islands, and my own opinion is, that the attempt at premature change of habits, as well as clothing, will account for many varieties of disease.

It is evident that many diseases rage in positions where Europeans never set foot, and it is highly probable, that, like the two cases now before us, they originated amongst themselves. I heard at Tahiti of a pig affecting numbers. Was the pig diseased? And if so, how came it so? Had a party existed as intent on tracing the true sources of disease, as others are in croaking about what they are utterly ignorant of, probably a very different tale would be told. But if the fact be, as urged by these upholders of American and European contamination, (at the Sandwich Islands,) why do they not exert themselves to erect a hospital, by which means the remedy might be offered? Have any of them moved such a question? Do they ever visit the sick or attempt the cure of body and soul, or in any way assuage their miseries?

On the 18th, baffling winds and rain caused me to haul to the southward for the night, intending to search for an island and shoal laid down by Arrowsmith. Fortunately very strict orders were issued to the officers in charge of watches, and at four A. M.,