rally much more comfortable than the professed lodging-houses. The dearest apartments, as well as the dearest hotels, are at the West End, where the charges vary from 21. to 151. a week. The best are in the streets leading from Piccadilly Dover Street, Half Moon Street, Clarges Street, Duke Street, and Sackville Street, and in those leading out of St. James's Street, such as Jermyn Street, Bury Street, and King Street. Good, but less expensive lodgings may also be obtained in the less central parts of the West End, and in the streets diverging from Oxford Street and the Strand. In Bloomsbury (near the British Museum) the average charge for one room is 15-21s. per week, and breakfast is provided for 1s. a day. Fire and light are usually extras, sometimes also boot-cleaning and washing of bed-linen. It is advisable to have a clear understanding on all these points. Still cheaper apartments, varying in rent according to the amenity of their situation and their distance from the centres of business and pleasure, may be obtained in the suburbs. The traveller who desires to be very moderate in his expenditure may even procure a bedroom and the use of a breakfastparlour for 10s. a week. The preparation of plain meals is generally understood to be included in the charge for lodgings, but the sightseer will probably require nothing but breakfast and tea in his rooms, partaking of luncheon and dinner at one of the pastrycooks' shops, oyster-rooms, or restaurants with which London abounds.

Though attendance is generally included in the weekly charge for board and lodging, the servants expect a small weekly gratuity, proportionate to the trouble given them.

Money and valuables should be securely locked up in the visitor's own trunk, as the drawers and presses of hotels and boarding-houses are frequently by no means inviolable receptacles. Large sums of money and objects of great value, however, had better be entrusted to the keeping of the landlord of the house, if a person of known respectability, or to a banker in exchange for a receipt. It is hardly necessary to point out that it would be unwise to make such a deposit with the landlord of private apartments or boarding-houses, which have not been specially recommended.

4. Restaurants. Dining Rooms. Oyster Shops.
Confectioners.

English cookery, which is as inordinately praised by some epicures and bons vivants as it is abused by others, has at least the merit of simplicity, so that the quality of the food one is eating is not so apt to be disguised as it is on the Continent. Meat and fish of every kind are generally excellent in quality at all the better restaurants, but the visitor accustomed to continental fare may discern a falling off in the soups, vegetables, and sweet dishes.

At the first-class restaurants the cuisine is generally French; the charges are high, but everything is sure to be good of its kind.

At the smaller restaurants it is usual to find out from the waiter what dishes are to be had, and to order accordingly.

The dinner hour at the best restaurants is 4-8 p. m., after which some of them are closed. At less pretentious establishments dinner 'from the joint' is obtainable from 12 or 1 to 5 or 6 p.m. Beer, on draught or in bottle, is supplied at almost all the restaurants, and is the beverage most frequently drunk. The Grill Rooms are devoted to chops, steaks, and other dishes cooked on a gridiron. Dinner from the Joint is a plain meal of meat, potatoes, vegetables, and cheese. At many of the following restaurants, particularly those in the City, there are luncheon-bars, where from 11 to 3 a chop or small plate of hot meat with bread and vegetables may be obtained for 6-8d. Customers usually take these 'snacks' standing at the bar. In dining à la carte at any of the foreign restaurants one portion will often be found sufficient for two persons.

Good wine in England is expensive. Sherry is most frequently drunk, but Port, Claret (Bordeaux), and Hock (a corruption of Hochheimer, used as a generic term for Rhenish wines) may also be obtained at most of the restaurants.

The traveller's thirst can at all times be conveniently quenched at a Public House, where a glass of bitter beer, ale, stout, or 'half-and-half (i. e. ale or beer, and stout or porter, mixed) is to be had for 11/2-2d. (6d. or 8d. per quart). Good German Lager Bier (3-6d. per glass) is now very generally obtainable at the larger restaurants, in some of which it has almost entirely supplanted the heavier English ales. Wine (not recommended) may also be obtained. Many of the more important streets also contain Wine-stores or 'Bodegas', where a good glass of wine may be obtained for 2-6d., a pint of Hock or Claret for 8d.-1s. 6d., and so on, and a few taverns (such as Short's, 333 Strand) have acquired a special reputation for their wines.

Restaurants at the West End.

In and near the STRAND:

*Simpson's Dining Rooms, in the busiest part of the Strand (Nos. 101-103); ladies' room upstairs; dinner à la carte.

Imperial Café-Restaurant (Gatti & Rodersano), 166 Strand. *Gaiety Restaurant (Spiers & Pond), at the Gaiety Theatre, 343 and 344 Strand; table d'hôte from 5.30 till 8 p.m., 3s. 6d.

Haxell's Hotel Restaurant, 371 Strand.

Tivoli Restaurant and Music Hall, 69 Strand, opposite the

Adelphi Theatre (German beer; at present rebuilding).

Windsor, 427 Strand.

The Courts Restaurant, 222 Strand, opposite the Law Courts.
Romano's Café-Restaurant, 399 Strand (French).

*Gatti's Restaurant and Café, Adelaide Street, with a second entrance at 436 Strand.

*Grand Hotel, Charing Cross (see p. 7); table d'hôte at 6 p.m. 58.; also buffet and grill-room.

Ship Restaurant, 45 Charing Cross.

Darmstätter's Beer Saloon, 395 Strand (German cuisine and beer).
Old Drury Tavern, 50 Catherine Street, near Drury Lane

Theatre (p. 40).

The Albion, 26 Russell Street, opposite Drury Lane Theatre, frequented by actors and authors (not by ladies); dinner from the joint. IN LEICESTER SQUARE:

The Cavour, 20 Leicester Square, hotel and café, French cuisine

and attendance; table d'hôte from 6 to 9, 3s. Hôtel de Paris, 7 & 9 Leicester Square.

Near Leicester Square:

*Kettner's Restaurant du Pavillon, French house, 29 & 30 Church

Street, Soho (somewhat expensive).

Wedde, German house, 12 Greek Street, Soho.
Hôtel de Solferino, 7 & 8 Rupert Street.

There are many cheap and good foreign restaurants in Soho.
In PALL MALL:

Epitaux, in the Opera Arcade, near the corner of Haymarket.
In PICCADILLY, REGENT STREET, and the vicinity:

The Criterion (Spiers and Pond), Regent Circus, Piccadilly, spacious, sumptuously fitted up, and adorned with tasteful decorative paintings by eminent artists; theatre, see p. 41. - Table d'hôte from 5.30 to 8 p.m. 3s. 6d., attendance 3d., accompanied by glees and songs performed by a choir of men and boys; dinner from the joint 2s. 6d. Grill-room, café and American bar, etc.

Piccadilly Restaurant, in the building of the Pavilion Music Hall. *Monico's, 15 Tichborne Street, handsomely fitted up, with restaurant, grill-room, café, luncheon bar, and concert room (see p. 43). Hôtel Previtali, 14-18 Arundell Street (p. 10), with table d'hôte. Berkeley Hotel, Piccadilly.

*Bellamy's Dining Rooms, 2 Piccadilly Place, Piccadilly, opposite St. James's Church, moderate.

*The Burlington (Blanchard's), 169 Regent Street, corner of New Burlington Street; dinners on first and second floors, groundfloor reserved for luncheons. Ladies' rooms. Dinners at 5s., 7s. 6d., and 10s. 6d.; also à la carte.

*St. James's Hall Restaurant, 69-71 Regent Street, and 25, 26, and 28 Piccadilly. Ladies' rooms and grill-room. Concert dinner, with lady orchestra, 4s. 6d.

*Kühn, 21 Hanover Street, café downstairs, restaurant upstairs, expensive. *Verrey, 229 Regent Street, French cuisine, somewhat high charges (bouillabaisse to order).

*Grand Café Royal, 68 Regent Street; French dinner 5s. The table d'hôte at the Hôtel Continental, 1 Regent Street, is good but high-priced (7s. 6d.); déjeuner from 12 to 3 p.m. 48.

*Blanchard's Restaurant, 1-7 Beak Street, Regent Street (ladies not after 5 p.m.); dinner 3s. 6d.; à la carte, dearer. Good wines.

In and near OXFORD STREET and HOLBORN: *The Pamphilon, 17 Argyll Street, Oxford Street, near Regent

Circus, with ladies' rooms; unpretending, moderate charges. The Star and Garter (Pecorini), 98 New Oxford Street. *Frascati, 26 Oxford Street, near Tottenham Court Road and not

far from the British Museum; luncheon 2s. 6d., dinner 5s.

Dorothy Restaurant (for ladies), 448 Oxford Street.

The Radnor, 73 Chancery Lane and 311-312 High Holborn.

The Horseshoe, 264-267 Tottenham Court Road, not far from the British Museum, luncheon-bar, grill-room, and dining-rooms; table d'hôte 5.30 to 8.30 p.m., 2s. 6d.

Inns of Court Restaurant, in Lincoln's Inn Fields, N. side.

*The Holborn Restaurant, 218 High Holborn, an extensive and elaborately adorned establishment, with grill-room, luncheon buffets, etc.; table d'hôte at separate tables in the Grand Salon from 5.30 to 9 p.m., with music, 3s. 6d.

*Gray's Inn Tavern, 19 High Holborn, near Chancery Lane. Spiers and Pond's Buffet, Holborn Viaduct Station. Table d'hôte at the First Avenue Hotel (p. 7) from 5.30 to

8.30 p.m., 5s; also restaurant, grill-room, and luncheon-buffet. * Veglio, 314 Euston Road, near the end of Tottenham Court Road (moderate).

In FLEET STREET:

In the City.

The Cock, 22 Fleet Street (chops, steaks, kidneys; good stout); with the fittings of the famous Old Cock Tavern, pulled down in 1886.

*The Rainbow, 15 Fleet Street (good wines); dinner from the joint, chops, steaks, etc.

Old Cheshire Cheese, 16 Wine Office Court, Fleet Street (steak and chop house; beefsteak puddings on Saturdays).

Near ST. PAUL'S: Table d'hôte in De Keyser's Royal Hotel (p. 8), the charge for which to persons not residing in the hotel is 6s. (without wine).

Spiers and Pond's Restaurant, Ludgate Hill Station.

The Cathedral Hotel, 48 St. Paul's Churchyard, dinner at 1 and 5 p.m., 2s.; also à la carte.

Salutation Tavern, 17 Newgate Street (fish).

Grand Café-Restaurant de Paris, 74 Ludgate Hill, table d'hôte from 5 to 9, with 1/2 bottle of claret, 3s. 6d.

Near the BANK:

The Palmerston, 34 Old Broad Street. - The Lombard, 2 Lombard Court, Lombard Street.

In Cheapside: - Lake and Turner (No. 49), and Read's (No. 94), good houses, with moderate charges; Cyprus Restaurant (Nos. 1 and 2); Queen Anne (No. 27); Sweeting's (No. 158; fish).

In Gresham Street: Gresham Restaurant (No. 58); The Castle (No. 40); Guildhall Dining Rooms (Nos. 81-83), opposite the Guildhall.

City Restaurant, 34 Milk Street.

In the Poultry: *Pimm's (Nos. 3, 4, 5).

In Bucklersbury, near the Mansion House: *Reichert's (Bargen's;

No. 4); Lake & Turner (No. 21), moderate.

Spiers and Pond's Buffet, Mansion House (Metropolitan) Station. In Gracechurch Street: Morrell (No. 13); Colonial Tavern (No. 20); Half Moon (No. 88).

*London Tavern, formerly King's Head, 53 Fenchurch Street. Queen Elizabeth here took her first meal after her liberation from the Tower.

*Crosby Hall (p. 106), Bishopsgate Street (waitresses). These last two are very handsomely fitted up and contain smoking and chess rooms.

International Restaurant, 39 Bishopsgate Street Within.
Three Nuns, adjoining Aldgate Metropolitan Station.

Wilkinson, 59 Leadenhall Street.

Ship and Turtle, 129 Leadenhall Street, noted for its turtle. Bargen, 37 and 48 Coleman Street.

Ruttermann, 41 and 42 London Wall.

In or near Cornhill: Birch's (Ring & Brymer), 15 Cornhill, the principal purveyors to civic feasts; Purssell's Restaurant, 2-5 Finch Lane (chess); Woolpack, 6 St. Peter's Alley.

White Hart Inn, 63 Borough High Street, Southwark, described by Dickens in 'Pickwick'.

Three Tuns Tavern, at Billingsgate Fish Market (p. 111), the famous 'Fish Ordinary'. Table d'hôte (upstairs) from 4 to 5 p.m., with 4-5 varieties of fish, besides meat and cheese, for 2s. Beer 6d. per pint, claret 1s. 6d. per bottle, large glass of punch (good but dear) 1s. 6d., small glass 1s., waiter 2-3d. For gentlemen only. Fish-dinners at Greenwich, see p. 301.

Waiters in restaurants expect a gratuity of about 1d. for every shilling of the bill, but 6d. per person is the most that need ever be given. If a charge is made in the bill for attendance the visitor is not bound to give anything additional, though even in this case it is customary to give the waiter a trifle for himself.

Special mention may be made of the temperance Eating Rooms opened by the People's Café Company at 61 St. Paul's Churchyard, 1 Ludgate Circus Buildings, and 61 Gracechurch Street. Excellent plain meals may be procured in these houses at moderate rates, without the necessity of ordering anything to drink. Gratuities to the attendants are forbidden. Among the chief VEGETARIAN RESTAURANTS in London are the Orange Grove, St. Martin's Lane, W.C.; Wheatsheaf, 13 Rathbone Place, Oxford Street; Alpha, 23 Oxford Street; Queen Victoria, 303 Strand; Bouverie, 63 Fleet Street.

Oyster Shops.

*Scott (Edwin), 18 Coventry Street, exactly opposite the Haymarket (also steaks), in the evening for gentlemen only; *Rule, 35 Maiden Lane, Covent Garden; Smith, 357 Strand; Pimm, 3 PoultryCity; Lynn, 70 Fleet Street, City; *Lightfoot, 3 Arthur Street East, 22 Lime Street, 39 Old Change, all three in the City.