visit to London in 1698, and William Penn once lived at No. 21 in the same street. George Sale, the translator of the Koran, as well as Congreve (d. 1729), the dramatist, lived and died in Surrey Street. Beyond Norfolk Street, on the left, is the Strand Theatre (p. 41). At No. 5 Strand Lane, the adjacent narrow opening on the left, is an ancient Roman Bath, about 13 ft. long, 6 ft. broad, and 41/2 ft. deep, one of the few relics of the Roman period in London. The bricks at the side are laid edgewise, and the flooring consists of brick with a thin coating of stucco. At the point where the water, which flows from a natural spring, has washed away part of the stucco covering, the old pavement below is visible. The clear, cold water probably flows from the old 'Holy Well', situated on the N. side of the Strand, and lending its name to the adjacent Holywell Street, which is chiefly occupied by book-shops of a low class. The Roman antiquities found here are preserved in the British Museum (p. 252). Close by, on the right of the passage, is another bath, said to have been built by the Earl of Essex about 1588; it is supplied by a pipe from the Roman bath. At No. 36 Holywell Street is a survivor of the ancient signs with which every shop in London used to be provided (a crescent moon with a face in the centre).

King's College, the large pile of buildings adjoining Strand Lane on the W., built by Smirke in 1828, forms the E. wing of Somerset House (see below). The Museum contains a collection of models and instruments, including Babbage's calculating machine.

In the Strand we next reach, on the N. side, the church of St. Mary le Strand, built by Gibbs in 1717, on the spot where stood in olden times the notorious Maypole, the May-day and Sunday delight of youthful and other idlers. It was called St. Mary's after an earlier church which had been demolished by Protector Somerset to make room for his mansion of Old Somerset House (see below). Thomas Becket was rector of this parish in the reign of King Stephen. Drury Lane, a street much in need of improvement, and containing the theatre of the same name (p. 40), leads N. from this point to Oxford Street and the British Museum.

Farther on, on the S. side of the Strand, rises the stately façade of Somerset House (Pl. R, 31; 11), 150 ft. in length. The present large, quadrangular building was erected by Sir William Chambers in 1776-86, on the site of a palace which the Protector Somerset began to build in 1549. The Protector, however, was beheaded (p. 123) before it was completed, and the palace fell to the Crown. It was afterwards the residence of Anne of Denmark, consort of James I., of Henrietta Maria, the queen of Charles I., and of Catharine of Braganza, the neglected wife of the second Charles. Inigo Jones died here in 1652. The old building was taken down in 1766, and the present edifice, now occupied by various public offices, erected in its stead. The imposing principal façade towards the Thames, 780 ft. in length, rises on a terrace 50 ft. broad and 50 ft. high, and is now separated from the river by the Victoria Embankment. The quadrangular court contains a bronze group by Bacon, representing George III. leaning on a rudder, with the English lion and Father Thames at his feet. The two wings of the building were erected during the present cent. : the eastern, containing King's College (p. 142), by Smirke, in 1828; the western, towards Wellington Street, by Pennethorne, in 1854-56. The sum expended in constructing the latter alone was 81,000l.; and the cost of the whole building amounted to 500,000l. At Somerset House no fewer than 900 officials are employed, with salaries amounting in the aggregate to 275,000l. The building is said to contain 3600 windows. The public offices established here include the Audit Office; the Inland Revenue Office, in the new W. wing, containing the presses for stamped paper, postage stamps, etc.; the Office of the Registrar-General of Births, Deaths, and Marriages; the Admiralty Register; and Doctors' Commons Will Office (Prerogative Court), transferred hither from Doctors' Commons, Bennet's Hill (p. 116), in 1874. This last department is the great repository of testamentary writings of all kinds. The Department for Literary Enquiry in the Central Hall is open daily from 10 a. m. to 3 p.m. Here may be seen an interesting collection of wills, including those of Shakspeare, Holbein, Van Dyck, Newton, and Samuel Johnson. The will of Napoleon I., executed at St. Helena, used to be kept here, but was handed over to the French in 1853. Visitors are allowed to read copies of wills previous to 1700, from which also pencil extracts may be made. For showing wills of a later date a charge of 1s. is made. A fee of 1s. is also charged for searching the calendars. No extracts may be made from these later wills, but official copies may be procured at 8d. per folio page.

For Late

On the W. side of Somerset House is Wellington Street, leading to *Waterloo Bridge. This bridge, one of the finest in the world, was built by John Rennie for a company in 1811-17, at a cost of over 1,000,000l. It is 460 yds. long and 42 ft. broad, and rests upon 9 arches, each of 120 ft. span and 35 ft. high, and borne by granite buttresses. It commands an admirable view of the W. part of London between Westminster and St. Paul's, of the Thames Embankment, and of the massive but well-proportioned façade of Somerset House. In 1878 the bridge was sold to the Metropolitan Board of Works for 475,000l. and opened to the public toll-free.

On the N. side of the Strand we next observe several theatres, including the Gaiety (p. 41) and the Lyceum (p. 40). Beyond these, between Burleigh Street and Exeter Street (commemorating Exeter House, the residence of Queen Elizabeth's Lord Chancellor), is Exeter Hall, marked by its Corinthian portico, and capable

of containing 5000 persons. It is the property of the Young Men's Christian Association and used for the advocacy of religious and philanthropic movements (the large annual 'May Meetings' of various religious societies being held here).

To the left is Savoy Street, leading to the Savoy Chapel, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and built in the Perpendicular style in 1505-11, during the reigns of Henry VII. and Henry VIII., on the site of the ancient Savoy Palace.

The chapel, which is one of the Chapels Royal, was seriously injured

The

by fire in 1864, but restored at the expense of Queen Victoria. handsome wooden ceiling is modern. Bishop Gavin Douglas of Dunkeld (d. 1522), the poetical translator of Virgil, is buried in the chancel (with brass), and George Wither (d. 1667), the poet, was also buried here. Fine stained glass. Savoy Palace was first built in 1245, and was given by Henry III. to Peter, Count of Savoy, the uncle of his queen, Eleanor of Provence. The captive King John of France died here in 1364, and Chaucer was probably married here when the palace was occupied by John of Gaunt. It lay between the present chapel and the river, but has entirely disappeared. At the Savoy, in the time of Cromwell, the Independents adopted a Confession of Faith, and here the celebrated 'Savoy Conference' for the revision of the Prayer Book was held, when Baxter, Calamy, and others represented the Nonconformists. The German chapel which used to stand contiguous to the Savoy Chapel was removed in widening Savoy Street, which now forms a thoroughfare to the Thames Embankment. The French Protestants who conformed to the English church had a chapel here from the time of Charles II. till 1737. See Memorials of the Savoy, by the Rev. W. J. Loftie (MacMillan; 1878).

At No. 13 Cecil Street, to the left, Sir W. Congreve (d. 1828), the inventor of the Congreve Rocket, resided and made his experiments, firing the rockets across the Thames. Near the corner of the Strand and Cecil Street is the Savoy Theatre (p. 41).

A little to the N. of this part of the Strand lies Covent Garden Market (p. 180). On the right, between Southampton Street and Bedford Street, is the Vaudeville Theatre (p. 41); beyond it, the Royal Adelphi Theatre (p. 41). In Bedford Street is the new store of the Civil Service Supply Association (p. 27).

To the S. of the Strand, in John Street, Adelphi (approached through Adam Street, opposite the Adelphi Theatre), rises the building of the Society of Arts (Pl. R, 30; II), an association established in 1754 for the encouragement of arts, manufactures, and commerce, which took a prominent part in promoting the Exhibitions of 1851 and 1862. The large hall (open daily, 10-4, except Wednesdays and Saturdays) contains six paintings by Barry (1777-83), representing the progress of civilisation. No. 14 in the same street is the headquarters of the Royal National Life Boat Institution, founded in 1824 and supported entirely by voluntary contributions. This society now possesses a fleet of about 300 life-boats stationed round the British coasts, and in 1888 was instrumental in saving 800 lives and 26 vessels. The total number of lives saved through the agency of the Institution from its foundation down to 1889 was above 34,000. The expenditure of the society in 1888 was 53,270l. The average cost of establishing a life-boat station

is 1050l., and the annual expense of maintaining it 701. In the middle of Adelphi Terrace, parallel with John Street on the S., David Garrick died in 1779. On the right, where King William Street joins the Strand, stands the Charing Cross Hospital; and in King William Street is the Ophthalmic Hospital. A little farther on, in the Strand, on the right hand, is the Lowther Arcade (p. 26), and on the left is Coutts's Bank, a very noted firm, at which the royal family has banked for nearly 200 years.

At the W. end of the Strand, on the left, is Charing Cross Station (with a large Hotel, p. 7), the West End terminus of the South-Eastern Railway (p. 33), built by Barry on the site of Hungerford Market, where the mansion of Sir Edward Hungerford stood until it was burned down in 1669. In front of it stands a modern copy of Eleanor's Cross, a Gothic monument erected in 1291 by Edward I. at Charing Cross, on the spot where the coffin of his consort was set down during its last halt on the way to Westminster Abbey. The original was removed by order of Parliament in 1647. The river is here crossed by the Charing Cross Railway Bridge, on each side of which is a foot-way (freed from toll in 1878). To the E. of the station is Villiers Street, which descends to the Embankment Gardens (p. 114) and to the Charing Cross Station (p. 36) of the Metropolitan Railway. The * Watergate, situated close by, is an interesting relic of York House, a palace begun by Inigo Jones for George Villiers, the favourite of James I., and first Duke of Buckingham. Benjamin Franklin lived at No. 7 Craven Street (denoted by a memorial tablet), to the W. of the station.

13. Trafalgar Square.

Nelson Column. St. Martin's in the Fields. Charing Cross.

*Trafalgar Square (Pl. R, 26; II, IV), one of the finest open places in London and a great centre of attraction, is, so to speak, dedicated to Lord Nelson, and commemorates his glorious death at the battle of Trafalgar (22nd Oct., 1805), gained by the English fleet over the combined armaments of France and Spain. By this victory Napoleon's purpose of invading England was frustrated. The ambitious Emperor had assembled at Boulogne an army of 172,000 infantry and 9000 cavalry, and also 2413 transports to convey his soldiers to England, but his fleet, which he had been building for many years at an enormous cost, and which was to have covered his passage of the Channel, was destroyed by Nelson at this famous battle. The Admiral is, therefore, justly revered as the saviour of his country.

In the centre of the square rises the massive granite Column, 145 ft. in height, to the memory of the hero. It is a copy of one of the Corinthian columns of the temple of Mars Ultor, the avenging god of war, at Rome, and is crowned with a Statue of Nelson, by Baily, 17 ft. in height. The pedestal is adorned with

BAEDEKER, London. 7th Edit.

10

reliefs in bronze, cast with the metal of captured French cannon, On the N. face is a scene from the battle of Aboukir (1798); Nelson, wounded in the head, declines to be assisted out of his turn by a surgeon who has been dressing the wounds of a common sailor. On the E. side is the battle of Copenhagen (1801); Nelson is represented as sealing upon a cannon the treaty of peace with the conquered Danes. On the S. is the death of Nelson at Trafalgar (22nd Oct., 1805); beside the dying hero is Captain Hardy, commander of the Admiral's flag-ship. Below is Nelson's last command: 'England expects every man will do his duty'. On the W. side is a representation of Nelson receiving the sword of the Spanish commander after the battle of St. Vincent (1797). - Four colossal bronze lions, modelled by Sir Edwin Landseer (d. 1871) in 1867, couch upon pedestals running out from the column in the form of a cross. The monument was erected in 1843 by voluntary contributions at a total cost of about 45,0001.

Towards the N. side of the square, which is paved with asphalt, are two fountains. A Statue of Sir Henry Havelock, the deliverer of Lucknow (d. 1857), by Behnes, stands on the E. (Strand) side of the Nelson Column, and a Statue of Sir Charles James Napier, the conqueror of Scinde (d. 1853), by Adams, on the other. The N.E. corner of the square is occupied by an Equestrian Statue of George I V., in bronze by Chantrey. Between the fountains is a Statue of General Gordon (killed at Khartoum in 1885), by Hamo Thorneycroft, erected in 1888.

On the terrace on the N. side of the square rises the National Gallery (see next page). Near it, on the E., is the church of St. Martin in the Fields, with a noble Grecian portico, erected in 1721-26 by Gibbs, on the site of an earlier church, and containing a few uninteresting tombs. Nell Gwynne (d. 1687), Farquhar the dramatist (d. 1707), Roubiliac the sculptor (d. 1762), and James Smith (d. 1839), one of the authors of 'Rejected Addresses', were buried in the churchyard.

Adjoining Morley's Hotel, on the E. side of the square, is the building of the Royal Humane Society, founded in 1774 for the rescue of drowning persons. This valuable society possesses a model house on the N. bank of the Serpentine in Hyde Park, containing models of the best appliances for saving life, and apparatus for aiding bathers and skaters who may be in danger. It also awards prizes and medals to persons who have saved others from drowning.

Down to 1874 Northumberland House, the noble mansion of the Duke of Northumberland, with the lion of the Percies high above the gates, rose on the S.E. side of Trafalgar Square. It was purchased in 1873 by the Metropolitan Board of Works for 497,000l., and was removed to make way for Northumberland Avenue, a broad new street from Charing Cross to the Thames Embankment (comp. p. 113). The Grand Hotel (p. 7) occupies part of the site. Two other