was originally fed by the Westbourne, a small stream coming from that ancient region of fountains, Bayswater, to the N.; but it is now supplied from the Thames.

Hyde Park is one of the most frequented and lively scenes in London. It is surrounded by a handsome and lofty iron railing, and provided with nine carriage-entrances, besides a great number of gates for pedestrians, all of which are shut at midnight. On the S. side are Kensington Gate and Queen's Gate, both in Kensington Road, near Kensington Palace; Prince's Gate and Albert Gate in Knightsbridge; and Hyde Park Corner at the W. end of Piccadilly. On the E. side are Stanhope Gate and Grosvenor Gate, both in Park Lane. On the N. side are Cumberland Gate, at the W. end of Oxford Street, and Victoria Gate, Bayswater. The entrances most used are Hyde Park Corner at the S.E., and Cumberland Gate at the N.E. angle. At the latter rises the Marble Arch, a triumphal arch in the style of the Arch of Constantine, originally erected by George IV. at the entrance of Buckingham Palace at a cost of 80,0001. In 1850, on the completion of the E. façade (p. 257), it was removed from the palace, and in the following year was reerected in its present position. The reliefs on the S. are by Baily, those on the N. by Westmacott; the elegant bronze gates well deserve inspection. The handsome gateway at HYDE PARK CORNER, with three passages, was built in 1828 from designs by Burton. The reliefs are copies of the Elgin marbles (p. 241). The Green Park Arch, opposite, at the W. end of the Green Park (p. 259), erected in 1846, was removed in 1883, in the course of improvements made at Hyde Park Corner, and has been rebuilt on Constitution Hill. The Equestrian Statue of Wellington, by Wyatt, with which it was disfigured, has been re-erected at Aldershot Camp, while another equestrian statue of the Duke, in bronze, by Boehm, has been erected in Wellington Place, opposite Apsley House. At the corners of the red granite pedestal are figures of a grenadier, a Highlander, a Welsh fusilier, and an Inniskillen dragoon, all also by Boehm. Apsley House (p. 267), the residence of the Duke of Wellington, lies directly to the E. of Hyde Park Corner. The house next it is that of Baron Rothschild, and that at the W. corner of Park Lane is occupied by the Duke of Cambridge.

To the N. of Hyde Park Corner rises another monument to the 'Iron Duke', consisting of the colossal figure known as the Statue of Achilles, which, as the inscription informs us, was erected in 1822, with money subscribed by English ladies, in honour of 'Arthur, Duke of Wellington, and his brave companions in arms'. The statue, by Westmacott, is cast from the metal of 12 French cannon, captured in France and Spain, and at Waterloo, and is a copy of one of the Dioscuri on the Monte Cavallo at Rome. No carts or waggons are allowed to enter Hyde Park, and cabs are admitted only to one roadway across the park near Kensington Gardens. The finest portion of the park, irrespectively of the magnificent groups of trees and expanses of grass for which English parks stand pre-eminent, is that near the Serpentine, where, in spring and summer, during the 'Season', the fashionable world rides, drives, or walks. The favourite hour for carriages is 5-7 p.m., and the fashionable drive is the broad, southern avenue, which leads from Hyde Park Corner to the left, past the Albert Gate. Equestrians, on the other hand, appear, chiefly from 12 to 2 p.m., but also later in the afternoon, in Rotten Row, a track exclusively reserved for riders, running parallel to the drive on the N., and extending along the S. side of the Serpentine from Hyde Park Corner to Kensington Gate, a distance of about 11/2 M. The scene in this part of Hyde Park, on fine afternoons, is most interesting and imposing. In the Drive are seen unbroken files of elegant equipages and high-bred horses in handsome trappings, moving continually to and fro, presided over by sleek coachmen and powdered lacqueys, and occupied by some of the most beautiful and exquisitely dressed women in the world. In the Row are numerous lady and gentlemen riders, who parade their spirited and glossy steeds before the admiring crowd sitting or walking at the sides. It has lately become 'the thing' to walk by the Row on Sundays, and on a fine day the 'Church Parade', between morning service and luncheon (i.e. about 1-2 p.m.), is one of the best displays of dress and fashion in London. - The drive on the N. side of the Serpentine is called the Ladies' Mile. The Coaching and Four-in-hand Clubs meet here during the season, as many as thirty or forty drags sometimes assembling. The flower-beds adjoining Park Lane and to the W. of Hyde Park Corner are exceedingly brilliant, and the show of rhododendrons in June is deservedly famous. At the S. end of Park Lane is a handsome Fountain by Thorneycroft, adorned with figures of Tragedy, Comedy, Poetry, Shakspeare, Chaucer, and Milton, and surmounted by a statue of Fame. In Hamilton Gardens, a little farther to the S., near Hyde Park Corner (p. 260), is a statue of Lord Byron (d. 1824), erected in 1879. The district between Park Lane and Bond Street (p. 225) is known as MAYFAIR, and is one of the most fashionable in London.

A refreshing contrast to this fashionable show is afforded by a scene of a very unsophisticated character, which takes place in summer on the Serpentine before 8 a.m. and after 8 p.m. At these times, when a flag is hoisted, a crowd of men and boys, most of them in very homely attire, are to be seen undressing and plunging into the water, where their lusty shouts and hearty laughter testify to their enjoyment. After the lapse of about an hour the flag is lowered, as an indication that the bathing time is over, and in quarter of an hour every trace of the lively scene has disappeared. Pleasure-boats may be hired on the Serpentine.

In winter the Serpentine, when frozen over, is much frequented by skaters. To provide against accidents, the Royal Humane Society, mentioned at p. 146, has a 'receiving-house' here, where attendants and life-saving apparatus are kept in readiness for any emergency. The bottom of the Serpentine was cleaned and levelled in 1870; the average depth in the centre is now 7 ft., and towards the edges 3 ft. At the point where the Serpentine enters Kensington Gardens it is crossed by a five-arched bridge, constructed by Sir John Rennie in 1826.

On the W. side of the park is a powder magazine. Reviews, both of regular troops and volunteers, sometimes take place in Hyde Park. The Park is also a favourite rendezvous of organised crowds, holding 'demonstrations' in favour or disfavour of some political idea or measure. The Reform Riot of 1866, when quarter of a mile of the park-railings was torn up and 250 policemen were seriously injured, is perhaps the most historic of such gatherings; and a very large one, to protest against the Irish Crimes Bill, was held on Easter Monday, 1887. The wide grassy expanse adjoining the Marble Arch is also the favourite haunt of Sunday lecturers of all kinds.

To the W. of Hyde Park, and separated from it by a sunkfence, lie Kensington Gardens (Pl. R, 10, etc.), with their pleasant walks and expanses of turf (carriages not admitted). Many of the majestic old trees have, unfortunately, had to be cut down. Near the Serpentine are the new flower gardens; at the N. extremity is a sitting figure of Dr. Jenner (d. 1823), by Marshall. The Broad Walk on the W. side, 50 ft. in width, leads from Bayswater to Kensington Road. The Albert Memorial (p. 270) rises on the S. side. The handsome wrought-iron gates opposite the Memorial were those of the S. Transept of the Exhibition Buildings of 1851, which stood a little to the E., on the ground between Prince's Gate and the Serpentine, and was afterwards removed and re-erected as the Crystal Palace at Sydenham (see p. 305).

Kensington Palace (Pl. R, 6), an old royal residence, built in part by William III., was the scene of the death of that monarch and his consort, Mary, of Queen Anne and her husband, Prince George of Denmark, and of George II. Here, too, Queen Victoria was born and brought up, and here she received the news of the death of William IV. and her own accession. The interior contains nothing noteworthy. Kensington Palace was till lately the London residence of the Princess Louise and her husband the Marquis of Lorne, and is now occupied by the Prince and Princess of Teck (the latter first cousin to the Queen), and by various annuitants and widows belonging to the aristocracy. The palace has a chapel of its own, in which regular Sunday services are held.

The space to the W. of Kensington Palace is now occupied by rows of fashionable residences. Thackeray died in 1863 at No. 2 Palace Green, the second house to the left in Kensington Palace Gardens (Pl. R, 6) as we enter from Kensington High Street. Among his previous London

residences were 88 St. James's Street, 13 (now 16) Young Street, Kensington (where 'Vanity Fair', 'Pendennis', and 'Esmond were written), and 36 Onslow Square (re-numbered). Holly Lodge, the home of Lord Macaulay, where he died in 1859, is in a lane leading off Campden Hill Road, a little farther to the W. The next house is Argyll Lodge, the London residence of the Duke of Argyll.

Farther to the W., on a hill lying between Uxbridge Road, on the N., and Kensington Road on the S., stands Holland House (Pl. R, 1), built in the Tudor style by John Thorpe, for Sir Walter Cope, in 1607. The building soon passed into the hands of Henry Rich, Earl of Holland (in Lincolnshire), son-in-law of Sir Walter Cope, and afterwards, on the execution of Lord Holland for treason, came into the possession of Fairfax and Lambert, the Parliamentary generals. In 1665, however, it was restored to Lady Holland. From 1716 to 1719 it was occupied by Addison, who had married the widow of Edward, third Earl of Holland and Warwick. The lady was a relative of Sir Hugh Myddelton (see p. 100). In 1762 it was sold by Lord Kensington, cousin of the last representative of the Hollands, who had inherited the estates, to Henry Fox, afterwards Baron Holland, and father of the celebrated Charles James Fox. The house is now the property of Lady Holland, widow of the fourth Lord Holland of the Fox line; but the reversion is said to have been sold to Lord Ilchester, a descendant of a brother of Henry Fox. The demesnes of Holland House have recently been much curtailed by laying out sites for building.

Since the time of Charles I., Holland House has frequently been associated with eminent personages. Fairfax, Cromwell, and Ireton held their deliberations in its chambers; William Penn, who was in great favour with Charles II., was daily assailed here by a host of petitioners; and William III. and his consort Mary lived in the house for a short period. During the first half of the 19th cent. Holland House was the rallying point of Whig political and literary notabilities of all kinds, such as Moore, Rogers, and Macaulay, who enjoyed here the hospitality of the distinguished third Baron Holland. The house contains a good collection of paintings and historical relics. Compare Princess Lichtenstein's 'Holland House'.

Along the N. side of Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens runs the Uxbridge Road, leading to Bayswater and Notting Hill. Near the Marble Arch (Pl. R, 15) is the Cemetery of St. George's, Hanover Square (open 10-4, on Sun. and holidays 2-4), containing the grave of Laurence Sterne (d. 1768; near the middle of the wall on the W. side). Mrs. Radcliffe, writer of the 'Mysteries of Udolpho', is said to be buried below the chapel. The rows of houses on this road, overlooking the park, contain some of the largest and most fashionable residences in London.

264

25. Private Mansions around Hyde Park and

St. James's.

Grosvenor House. Stafford House. Bridgewater House. Dudley House. Lansdowne House. Apsley House. Bath House. Dorchester House. Hertford House. Devonshire House.

The English aristocracy, many of the members of which are enormously wealthy, resides in the country during the greater part of the year; but it is usual for the principal families to have a mansion in London, which they occupy during the season, or at other times when required. Most of these mansions are in the vicinity of Hyde Park, and many of them are worth visiting, not only on account of the sumptuous manner in which they are fitted up, but also for the sake of the treasures of art which they contain.

Permission to visit these private residences, for which application must be made to the owners, is often difficult to procure, and can in some cases be had only by special introduction. During winter it is customary to pack away the works of art in order to protect them against the prejudicial influence of the atmosphere.

Grosvenor House (Pl. R, 18; 1), Upper Grosvenor Street, is the property of the Duke of Westminster, and is open to the public daily from May to July by tickets obtained on written application to the Duke's secretary. The pictures are arranged in the private rooms on the ground-floor, and catalogues are provided.

ROOM I. (Dining Room). To the left: 2. West, Death of General Wolfe at Quebec in 1759; 5. Albert Cuyp, Moonlight scene; 8. Sustermans, Portrait of a lady; 12. Claude Lorrain, Roman landscape; *17, *11. Rembrandt, Portraits of Nicolas Burghem and his wife (dated 1647); 15. Rubens, Landscape; 18, 19. Claude, Landscapes; 21. Adrian van de Velde, Hut with cattle and figures (1658); 23. Rembrandt, Portrait of a man with a hawk; 24. Wouwerman, Horse fair; 25. Hogarth, The distressed poet; 28. Claude, Landscape; 30. Cuyp, Sheep (an early work); *26. Claude, Sermon on the Mount; *31. Rembrandt, Portrait of a lady with a fan; *34. Berchem, Large landscape with peasants dancing (1656); 88. Sustermans, Portrait. ROOM II. (Saloon). To the left: **40. Rembrandt, The Salutation. 'A delicate and elevated expression is here united with beautiful effects of light. This little gem is distinguished for its marvellous blending of warm and cold tints'. Vosmaer.

Above, Cuyp, River scene; *41. G. Dou, Mother nursing her child; **42. Paul Potter. Landscape near Haarlem (1647); 45. N. Poussin, Children playing; **46. Hobbema, Wooded landscape, with figures by Lingelbach; Andrea del Sarto, Portrait; *53. Murillo, John the Baptist; 59. Canaletto, Canal Grande in Venice; 66. Parmigiano, Study for the altarpiece in the National Gallery (No. 33; p. 160); 67. N. Poussin, Holy Family and angels; 69. Giulio Romano, St. Luke painting the Virgin; 72. Murillo. Infant Christ asleep; **70. Hobbema, Wooded landscape, with figures by Lingelbach (a counterpart of the picture opposite); 75. Garofolo (?), Holy Family.

ROOM III. (Small Drawing Room). To the left: 92. Van Dyck, Virgin and Child with St. Catharine; *91. Reynolds, Portrait of Mrs. Siddons as the Tragic Muse (1784); 89. Andrea del Sarto, Holy Family; 83. Teniers, Château of the painter with a portrait of himself; *77. Gainsborough, The 'Blue Boy', a full-length portrait of Master Buthall.

ROOM IV. (Large Drawing Room). To the left: *95. Rembrandt (or A. Brouwer?), Landscape with figures; 112. Paul de Koning, Landscape; 110.