robes. Farther on is a plaster cast of the Eastern Gateway of the great Buddhist Tope at Sanchi, in the territory of the Begum of Bhopal; the original was built about the beginning of our era. Adjacent is a model of the huge domed tope to which the gate belongs, erected about B.С. 500; at the sides, marble figures of Buddha. On the walls are glazed tiles and carpets. Cast of the throne pillar in the private Hall of Audience in Akbar Khan's palace at Fâthpúr Sikrí, near Agra (16th cent.).

We now ascend a few steps, and turn to the right into the long galleries, containing textile fabrics.

[The staircase immediately to the right leads to the upper galleries, in which are placed the collections of furniture, carvings, lacquer-work, arms, pottery, jewellery, and bronzes.]

FIRST SECTION. On the walls, Indian carpets. Cases with figure-models of Indian divinities, handicraftsmen, agriculturalists, etc. Plaster casts of architectural details and sculptures. Architectural models. Ethnological Collection from Yarkund.

SECOND SECTION. On the walls, cotton carpets from the Deccan. THIRD SECTION. Tents and canopies used at the Durbar held on the occasion of the proclamation of the Queen as Empress of India at Delhi, Jan. 1877. Embroidery, brocades, state carpets and canopies; peasant dresses from the Punjab, turbans, caftans.

FOURTH SECTION. Embroidered shawls from Delhi; garments decorated with beetles' wings; fine muslins from Dacca. Cases with specimens of the wild silks of India, lent by Thos. Wardle, Esq. On the walls, embroidered coverlets and printed chintzes.

FIFTH SECTION. On the right, saddles and trappings. On the left, male and female costumes.

We now ascend the staircase, the walls of which are hung with photographs of Indian scenery, costumes, etc. Then, in the Upper Gallery:

FIRST SECTION. The first cases contain Indian works in metal, arranged according to countries. The most interesting are the brass vessels with reliefs from Thibet; the Bidri work from Purneah (in the N. W. Provinces); *Objects in dark metal, damascened with silver, from the Deccan; bells from Burmah and Tanjore. Among the most valuable pieces are the large *Ewer, with enamels of Indian scenery, in Bidri work (on a separate stand); Samovar, of tinned copper, from Cashmere (18th cent.); *Bowl and stand, in pierced silver, from Ahmedabad; "Ancient silver patera (5th or 6th cent. A. D.), found at Badakshan, with representations resembling those of classical antiques (worship of Bacchus?). The next cases contain Hindoo sacred figures, and brass and marble idols and vessels used in the worship of Buddha. Among these is a figure of Buddha as Siddhartha before his conversion taking part in a grand procession, an extremely interesting 'Lotah' of about 200-300 A. D., found in a Buddhist's cell (No. 2910); also a Siamese figure of Buddha (19th cent.), of gilt metal decorated with glass spangles. On the walls are native paintings on talc. Many of the most interesting objects in this room are often removed for loan to provincial museums.

SECOND SECTION. Jewellery and articles in jade, crystal, gold, and silver. On the walls: Ornaments. In the cases to the right: Works in silver and other metals. Cases in the centre: Bracelets and necklaces; *"Ankus', or elephant goad, of gold, richly ornamented with a spiral band of diamonds, and set with rubies (from Teypore); necklace of tiger-claws; carvings in jade. To the right: Golden throne of the Maharajah Runjeet Singh, with three velvet cushions. Adjacent, Model illustrating the way in which Hindoo females wear jewelry. To the right: Case with *Silver filigree work. Then, Golden relics from Rangoon, discovered in levelling a Buddhist temple, consisting of three 'Charifas' or relicshrines, a tassel, a leaf-scroll, a bowl with cover, a small cup, a helmet, and a jewelled belt (dated the year 846, i.e. 1484-85 A.D.). Buddhist Reliquary in gold (said to date from B. C. 50), with interesting figures, resembling later Christian works. To the left: Indian crystal vessels; right, niellos; left, Kuftgari and enamel work. By the walls: Ornaments of various kinds.

THIRD SECTION. By the walls: Arms and Armour, arranged according to provinces; the swords in the cases to the left are particularly interesting. On the right: *Howdah, with embroidered covering. Opposite, *Palanquin, of ivory, with representations of battles and beautiful ornamentation. To the left: Weapons from Afghanistan. In the centre: Bronze gun from Burmah, in the form of a dragon. On the wall to the right is the banner of Ayoub Khan, captured at the battle of Candahar in 1880.

FOURTH SECTION. Pottery and Tiles, arranged by provinces. The most important are the manufactures of the N.W. Provinces (left), Sinde (right), and Madras (left). By the walls: Glazed tiles, chiefly from Sinde.

FIFTH SECTION. Wood and Ivory Carvings, Mosaics, Lacquer Works, Musical Instruments, Carvings in Marble and Stone. 4th Case to the left: Models of tombs and vessels in soapstone. 5th Case on the right: Wind Instruments. 4th, 6th, and 7th Cases to the right: String Instruments. In the centre: Tiger devouring an English officer, a barbaric mechanical toy that belonged to Tippoo Sahib. To the left: Drums and other musical instruments. In the centre: Bedstead from Theebaw's Palace, Mandalay; swinging bedstead of painted wood, from Sinde.

Wooden articles, lacquered, the ornamentation of which is more striking than the forms. Wood and Ivory Mosaics, of great delicacy of execution. Furniture made of ivory and various kinds of wood. On the walls is a fine collection of 274 water-colour drawings of Indian scenery, costumes, customs, etc., by Wm. Carpenter.

The lofty building to the E. of South Kensington Museum is the Roman Catholic Church of the Oratory, Brompton (see p. 52), the finest modern example in London of the style of the Italian Renaissance. The façade is still unfinished. The interior is remarkable for its lofty marble columns and the domed ceiling of concrete vaulting. In the Lady Chapel are a superb altar and reredos, inlaid with precious stones, brought from Brescia and valued at 12,0001. The various chapels are embellished with mosaics and carvings, and it is intended to cover all the walls with mosaics. The choir-stalls are beautifully carved in Italian walnut, the floor is of rich marquetry, and the altar-rail is formed of giallo antico marble. The two seven-branched candlesticks of gilt bronze are accurate copies of the Jewish one on the Arch of Titus.

28. Belgravia. Chelsea. Kensal Green Cemetery. Millbank Prison. Chelsea Hospital. Royal Military Asylum.

The southern portion of the West End, commonly known as Belgravia, and bounded by Hyde Park, the Green Park, Sloane Street, and Pimlico, consists of a number of handsome streets and squares (Belgrave Square, Eaton Square, Grosvenor Place, etc.), all of which have sprung up within the last few decades. It derives its general name from Belgrave Square, the centre of West End pride and fashion. Like Tyburnia, to the N., and Mayfair to the E. of Hyde Park, it is one of the most fashionable quarters of the town. At Pimlico on the S.E. stands Victoria Station, the extensive West End terminus of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, and of the London and Brighton Railway (p. 34), whence Victoria Street, opened up not many years ago through a wilderness of purlieus, leads N.E. to Westminster; Vauxhall Bridge Road S.E. to Vauxhall Bridge; Buckingham Palace Road and Commercial Road S.W. to Chelsea Bridge and Battersea Park (p. 299).

On the Thames, near Vauxhall Bridge, to the E. of Pimlico, and between Chelsea and Westminster, rises Millbank Penitentiary (Pl. G, 25), a huge mass of buildings, built and arranged from designs by Jeremy Bentham (d. 1832). It is about to be discontinued as a prison.

Vauxhall Bridge, constructed by Walker in 1816, is 800 ft. long, and consists of nine iron arches. The river is crossed farther up by the Victoria Railway Bridge, used for the various lines of railway converging at Victoria Station, and by the elegant Chelsea Suspension Bridge, built in 1858, both of which are at the E. end of Battersea Park (p. 299). - A little to the S. of Vauxhall Bridge is Kennington Oval, a cricket-ground second only to Lord's in public favour and in interest.

Chelsea, now a suburb of London, was for many ages before it was swallowed up, a country village, like Kensington, with many distinguished residents. It appears in Domesday Book as Chelched, i.e. 'chalk hythe', or wharf. The extensive building on the N. bank of the Thames, a little to the W. of Chelsea Bridge, is Chelsea Hospital (Pl. G, 18, 14), an institution for old and invalid soldiers, begun in the reign of Charles II. by Wren, on the site of a theological college (the name 'college' being sometimes still applied to the building), but not completed till the time of William and Mary. The hospital, consisting of a central structure flanked by two wings, and facing the river, has accommodation for 540 pensioners. In addition to these about 70,000 out-pensioners annually obtain relief, varying from 11/2d. to 3s. 71/2d. a day, out of the invested funds of the establishment, which is also partly supported by a grant from Parliament. The annual expenses are about 28,0001.

The centre of the quadrangle in front of the hospital is occupied by a bronze statue of Charles II., by Grinling Gibbons. The hospital (small fee to pensioner who acts as cicerone) contains a chapel with numerous flags, 13 French eagles, and an altarpiece by Sebastian Ricci, representing the Ascension of Christ. In the dining-hall is an equestrian portrait of Charles II., by Verrio. Visitors may attend the services in the chapel on Sun., at 11 a. m. and 8.30 p.m. The gardens are open to the public.

To the N. of the hospital lies the Royal Military Asylum (Pl. G, 13, 17), founded in 1801 by the Duke of York, and consequently often called the Duke of York's School, an institution in which about 500 orphans of soldiers are annually maintained and educated. The building has a Doric portico. Friday, from 10 to 4, is the best day to visit the school. In Chelsea Bridge Road, near the hospital, are the largest and finest of all the Barracks for the Foot Guards, with accommodation for 1000 men.

To the S.E., on part of the ornamental grounds of Chelsea Hospital, there stood in the reigns of George II. and George III. a place of amusement named the Ranelagh, which was famous beyond any other place in London as the centre of the wildest and showiest gaiety. Banquets, masquerades, fêtes, etc., were celebrated here in the most extravagant style. Kings and ambassadors, statesmen and literati, court beauties, ladies of fashion, and the demi-monde met and mingled at the Ranelagh as they now meet nowhere in the metropolis. Its principal building, the 'Rotunda', 185 ft. in diameter, not unlike in external appearance to the present Albert Hall, was erected in 1740, by William Jones. Horace Walpole describes it as 'a vast amphitheatre, finely gilt, painted, and illuminated, into which everybody that loves eating, drinking, staring, or crowding is admitted for twelve pence'. This haunt of pleasure-seekers was closed in 1805, and every trace of it has long been obliterated.

To the S.W. of the hospital lies the Chelsea Botanic Garden, presented by Sir Hans Sloane to the Society of Apothecaries, on condition that 50 new varieties of plants grown in it should be annually furnished to the Royal Society, until the number so presented amounted to 2000. It is famed for its fine cedars. Tickets of admission (gratis) may be obtained in Apothecaries' Hall, Water Lane, Blackfriars (p. 115).

*Chelsea Old Church (St. Luke's), which stands by the river, at the corner of Cheyne Walk and Church Street (Pl. G, 1), is one of the most interesting churches in London. It was originally built in the reign of Edward II. (1307-27 but in its present form it dates mainly from about 1660, though some older work remains in the chancel and its side-chapels. Among the numerous monuments it contains are those of Lord Bray and his son (1539); several of the Lawrence family, mentioned by H. Kingsley in 'The Hillyars and the Burtons'; the sumptuous monument of Lord and Lady Dacre (1594-5); the Duchess of Northumberland (d. 1555; mother-in-law of Lady Jane Grey and grandmother of Sir Philip Sidney); Lady Jane Cheyne (d. 1669), a large monument by Bernini, the only work now remaining that he did for England; and Sir Hans Sloane (d. 1753; see below). Sir Thomas More built the chapel on the S. side of the chancel, and erected a monument to himself, which is now in the chancel. In all probability his remains are in this church, except his head, which is at Canterbury (see Baedeker's Great Britain). In the churchyard are buried, though their monuments have disappeared, Shadwell, poet laureate (d. 1692), Henry Sampson Woodfall, printer of the celebrated Letters of Junius (d. 1805), and John Cavalier, the Huguenot leader (d. 1740). In the church are the 'Vinegar Bible', Foxe's Book of Martyrs (2 vols.), and two other books, chained to a desk. The keys of the church may be had from the Rev. R. H. Davies, 178 Oakley Street.

The past associations of Chelsea are full of interest. Sir Thomas More resided in Chelsea, near the river and Battersea Bridge, in Beaufort House, which has now disappeared, and where he was often visited by Erasmus. Sir Hans Sloane, lord of the manor of Chelsea, lived at the manor house there, and made the collection which formed the beginning of the British Museum (see p. 233). His name is commemorated in Sloane Street, Sloane Square, etc. Bishop Atterbury, Dean Swift, and Dr. Arbuthnot all resided in Church Street. Sir Richard Steele resided not far off. Mrs. Somerville lived at Chelsea Hospital, where her husband was physician. Leigh Hunt lived in Cheyne Row, and the same unpretending street for many years contained the residence of Thomas Carlyle (No. 24, formerly No. 5; indicated by a memorial tablet), who died here in 1881. George Eliot (Mrs. Cross; d. 1880) lived and died in Cheyne Walk. Turner, the great landscape-painter, died in obscure lodgings at Chelsea in 1851.

A little to the W. was Little Chelsea, now West Brompton, where the famous Earl of Shaftesbury of the 'Characteristics' resided in Shaftesbury House. This mansion, in which Locke wrote part of his 'Essay on the Human Understanding', and Addison parts of the Spectator', has been converted into a workhouse.

Skirting the Thames, a little to the W. of Chelsea Hospital, is the Chelsea Embankment (p. 114), on which, opposite Cheyne Row, is a Statue of Thomas Carlyle (d. 1881), by Boehm. The embankment passes the elegant Albert Suspension Bridge, and Battersea Bridge (new bridge in progress), and leads to the site of Cremorne Gardens, so named from their original owner, Lord Cremorne, and formerly a very popular place of recreation, but closed in 1877 and now almost covered with buildings.

Kensal Green Cemetery. The majority of the cemeteries of London are uninteresting, owing to the former English custom of burying eminent men within the walls of churches. This cemetery, however,, on the N.W. side of London, forms an exception, and will repay a visit. It is most easily reached by omnibus from Edgware Road. We may also travel by the Metropolitan Railway to Notting Hill or Westbourne Park Station (p. 334), each of which is about 3/4 M. to the S. of the cemetery; or by the North London Railway via Hampstead Heath to Kensal Green Station, 1/2 M. to

the north.

Kensal Green Cemetery, laid out in 1832, covers an area of about 60 acres, and contains about seventy thousand graves. It is divided into a consecrated portion for members of the Church of England, and an unconsecrated portion for dissenters. Most of the tombstones are plain upright slabs, but in the upper part of the cemetery, particularly on the principal path leading to the chapel, there are several monuments handsomely executed in granite and marble, some of which possess considerable artistic value. Among the eminent people interred here are Brunel, the engineer; Sidney Smith, the author; Mulready, the painter; Kemble, the actor; Sir Charles Eastlake, the painter and historian of art; Buckle, the historian; Leigh Hunt, the essayist; Sir John Ross, the arctic navigator; Thackeray, the novelist; John Leech, the well-known illustrator of 'Punch'; Gibson, the sculptor; Mme. Tietjens, the great singer; Charles Mathews, the actor; John Owen, the social reformer. Adjoining the grave of the last is the Reformers' Memorial. Cardinal Wiseman is interred in the Roman Catholic Cemetery, adjacent to Kensal Green.

Highgate Cemetery (p. 328) to the N., and Norwood Cemetery to the S. of London, are worth visiting for the sake of the excellent *Views they afford. Abney Park Cemetery, near Stoke Newington, is much used as a burying-ground by Nonconformists.