III. THE SURREY SIDE.

29. St. Saviour's Church.

Barclay and Perkins' Brewery. Guy's Hospital. Southwark Park.

The 'Surrey Side' of the metropolis, with a population of about 750,000 souls, has in some respects a character of its own. It is a scene of great business life and bustle from Lambeth to Bermondsey, but its sights, institutions, and public buildings are few. That part of it immediately opposite the City, from London Bridge to Charing Cross, is known as 'the Borough', a name which it rightly enjoys over the heads of such newly created boroughs as Greenwich or the Tower Hamlets, seeing it has returned two members to Parliament for more than 500 years. We note a few of its objects of interest.

Mention must be made, in the first place, of St Saviour's Church (Pl. R, 38; 11I), one of the oldest churches in London, situated opposite the London Bridge Station, in Wellington Street, which runs S. from London Bridge. The church, which was built in the 13th cent. by Gifford, Bishop of Winchester, belonged originally to the old Augustinian Priory of St. Mary Overy, but was converted into a parish church by Henry VIII. in 1540. Of this original building, which was cruciform in shape, and constructed in the Early English style, nothing now remains but the interesting choir, transept, and Lady Chapel. The nave was taken down in 1840, and replaced by an incongruous new structure. Above the cross is a low quadrangular tower, flanked by corner-towers.

The trials of reputed heretics under Queen Mary in 1555 took place in the beautiful Lady Chapel, which is flanked with aisles, and lies north and south. The chapel and choir were restored in 1820 and 1832, with only partial success. The altar-screen in the choir was erected by Fox, Bishop of Winchester, in the early years of the 16th century.

The most interesting monument in the church is that of the the poet John Gower (1325-1402), the friend of Chaucer. It consists of a sarcophagus with a recumbent marble figure of the poet, whose head rests upon his three principal works, the Speculum meditantis, Vox clamantis, and Confessio amantis, while his feet are supported by a lion. In the Lady Chapel is the monument of Lancelot Andrews, Bishop of Winchester (d. 1625). Massinger and Fletcher, the dramatists, Edmund Shakspeare, a player, brother of the poet, and Lawrence Fletcher, who was a lessee, along with Shakspeare and Burbage, of the Globe and Blackfriars Theatres, are also buried here. On the river, near St. Saviour's, once stood Winchester House, the residence of the bishops of Winchester, and the Globe Theatre just mentioned. The central station of the Metropolitan Fire Brigade is in Southwark Bridge Road.

In Park Street, near St. Saviour's, is situated Messrs. Barclay, Perkins, and Co.'s Brewery (Pl. R, 38; 111), partly on the former site of the Globe Theatre. This is one of the most extensive establishments of the kind in London, and is well worthy of a visit, on account both of its great size and its admirable arrangements.

The brewery covers an area of about 12 acres, forming a miniature town of houses, sheds, lofts, stables, streets, and courts. At the entrance stand the Offices, where visitors, who readily obtain an order to inspect the establishment on application by letter, enter their names in a book. The guide who is assigned to the visitor on entering, and who shows all the most interesting parts of the establishment, expects a fee of one shilling. In most of the rooms there is a very oppressive and heady odour, particularly in the cooling-room, where the carbonic acid gas lies about a foot deep over the fresh brew. Visitors are recommended to exercise caution in accepting the guide's invitation to breathe this gas.

In spite of the vast dimensions of the boilers, vats, fermenting 'squares', and other apparatus, none but the initiated will have any idea of the enormous quantity of liquor brewed here in the course of a year. About 200,000 quarters of malt are annually consumed, and the yearly duty paid to government by the firm amounts to the immense sum of 180,000l. The head brewer receives a salary of 1000l. per annum. The originator of the brewery was Dr. Johnson's friend Thrale, after whose death it was sold to Messrs. Barclay and Perkins. Dr. Johnson's words on the occasion of the sale, which he attended as an executor, though often quoted, are worthy of repetition: 'We are not here to sell a parcel of boilers and vats, but the potentiality of growing rich beyond the dreams of avarice.' Two vats are shown, each of which can contain 3300 barrels of liquor. The water used in brewing is supplied by Artesian wells, sunk on the premises.

The stables contain about 150 horses, many of which are bred in Yorkshire. They are used for carting the beer in London.

The brewing trade in London has become a great power within the last twenty or thirty years, and is felt to have a serious bearing upon the results of parliamentary and municipal elections. It is no longer a merely manufacturing trade, but promotes the consumption of its own goods by the purchase or lease of drinking-houses, where its agents are installed to conduct the sale. These agents are nominal tenants and are possessed of votes, and their number and influence are so great, that the power of returning the candidate who favours the 'trade' is often in their hands. All the great brewers are now understood to be extensive proprietors of public houses.

To the S. of London Bridge Station is Guy's Hospital (Pl. G, 42),

founded in 1721 by Guy, the bookseller, who had amassed an immense fortune by speculation in South Sea stock. The institution contains 710 beds, and relieves 5000 in-patients and above 80,000 out-patients annually. The yearly income of the hospital is 40,0001.

The court contains a brazen, and the chapel a marble statue of the founder (d. 1724), the latter by Bacon. Sir Astley Cooper, the celebrated surgeon, to whom a monument has been erected in St. Paul's (see p. 86), is buried here.

Southwark Park (Pl. R, 49, G, 49, 53), in Rotherhithe (p. 67), farther to the S., recently laid out by the Metropolitan Board of Works at a cost of more than 100,000l., covers an area of 62 acres, and is in the immediate neighbourhood of the extensive Surrey Docks (p. 128).

Mint Street

Among other interesting associations connected with this locality the following may be noticed. The name of Park Street reminds us of the extensive Park of the Bishops of Winchester, which occupied the river side from Winchester House to Holland House. In the fields to the S. of this park were the circuses for bull and bear baiting, so popular in the time of the Stuarts. Edward Alleyne was for many years the 'Keeper of the King's wild beasts' here, and amassed thereby the fortune which enabled him to found Dulwich College (see p. 312). - Richard Baxter often preached in a church in Park Street, and in Zoar Street there was a chapel in which John Bunyan is said to have ministered. recalls the mint existing here under Henry VIII. - In High Street there stood down to 1875 the old Talbot or Tabard Inn, the starting-point of Chaucer's 'Canterbury Pilgrims'. The White Hart, 63 Borough High Street (see p. 15), mentioned by Shakspeare in 'Henry VI. (Part II., iv. 8) and by Dickens in the 'Pickwick Papers' (as the meeting-place of Mr. Pickwick and Sam Weller), and the George (rebuilt after a fire in 1676), are interesting specimens of old-time inns, with galleries round their inner courts. The Marshalsea Gaol, the name of which is familiar from 'Little Dorrit', stood near St. George's Church, Southwark.

30. Lambeth Palace. Bethlehem Hospital. Battersea Park.

St. Thomas's Hospital. St. George's Cathedral.

On the right bank of the Thames, from Westminster Bridge to Vauxhall Bridge, stretches the new Albert Embankment (p. 114). On it, opposite the Houses of Parliament, stands St. Thomas's Hospital (Pl. R, 29; IV), a spacious edifice built by Currey in 1868-71, at a cost of 500,000l. It consists of seven four-storied buildings in red brick, united by arcades, and is in all 590 yds. long. The number of in-patients annually treated at the hospital is 6000, of out-patients over 60,000. Its annual revenue is 39,0001. Professional visitors will be much interested in the admirable internal arrangements (admission on Tuesdays at 10 a. m.). The hospital was formerly in a building in High Street, Southwark, which was sold to the South Eastern Railway Company in 1862 for 296,0001.

Lambeth Palace (Pl. R, 29; IV), above the hospital, at the E. end of Lambeth Bridge (built in 1862), has been for over 600 years the London residence of the Archbishops of Canterbury. It can only be visited by the special permission of the archbishop (apply to the chaplain). The Chapel, 72 ft. long and 26 ft. broad, built in 1245 by Archbishop Boniface in the Early English style, is the oldest part of the building. The screen and windows were placed here by Archbishop Laud. The 'Lollards' Tower' (properly the Water Tower), adjoining the W. end of the chapel, so called because the Lollards, or followers of Wycliffe, were supposed to have been imprisoned and tortured here, is an old, massive, square keep, erected by Archbishop Chicheley in 1434. A small room in the upper part of the tower, 131/2 ft. long, 12 ft. wide, and 8 ft. high, called the 'prison' and forming part of a staircase-turret more than 200 years older than the time of Chicheley, still contains several inscriptions by prisoners, and eight large rings fastened in the wall, to which the heretics were chained. The Earl of Essex, Queen Elizabeth's favourite (1601), Lovelace, the poet (1648), and Sir Thomas Armstrong (1659), were also confined here. The name of Lollards' Tower, applied to what is really a group of three buildings distinct in character and architecture, dates only from the beginning of the 18th century. The real Lollards' Tower was the S.W. tower of old St. Paul's Cathedral, as mentioned in Stow's Survey of London (1598). The Hall, 92 ft. long and 40 ft. broad, was built by Archbishop Juxon in 1663, and has a roof in the style of that of Westminster Hall, with Italian instead of Gothic details. The Library, established by Archbishop Bancroft in 1610, consists of 30,000 vols. and 2000 MSS., some of which, including the Registers of the official acts of the archbishops from 1274 to 1744 in 41 vols., are very valuable. It is at present kept in the hall, and is accessible daily, except Saturdays, between 10a.m. and 3 p.m. (in summer, 5p.m; closed from Sept. 1st to Oct. 15th).

The Guard Chamber, 60 ft. long, and 25 ft. broad, contains portraits of the archbishops since 1533, including Archbishop Laud, by Van Dyck; Herring, by Hogarth; Secker, by Sir Joshua Reynolds; Sutton, by Sir William Beechey; Howley, by Shee; and a portrait of Archbishop Warham, after Holbein (1504), a copy of the original in the Louvre. The dining-room contains portraits of Luther and his wife. The massive brick gateway, flanked by two towers, was erected by Cardinal Morton in the end of the 15th century. - See 'Lambeth Palace and its Associations', by Rev. J. CaveBrowne (2nd ed., 1883), and 'Art Treasures of the Lambeth Library', by the librarian, S. W. Kershaw (1873).

Bethlehem Hospital (Pl. R, 33; popularly corrupted into Bedlam), a lunatic asylum, is situated at the point where Lambeth Road, leading E. from Lambeth Palace, joins St. George's Road.

The hospital was founded in Bishopsgate Street by Sheriff Simon Fitz-Mary in 1246, but was presented by Henry VIII. to the city of London in 1547, and converted into a madhouse. The building in Bishopsgate Street was taken down in 1675, and a new hospital built in Moorfields, to replace which the present building in St. George's Fields, Lambeth, was begun in 1812. The cost of construction of the hospital, which has a frontage 900 ft. long, was 122,0001.; the architect was Lewis, but the dome was added by Smirke. The establishment can accommodate 400 patients, and is fitted up with every modern convenience, including hot air and water pipes, and various appliances for the amusement of the hapless inmates, including billiards. Professional men, who are admitted by cards obtained from one of the governing physicians, will find a visit to the hospital exceedingly interesting. There are also extensive lunatic asylums at Hanwell (p. 334), 71/2 M. to the W. of London, on the Great Western Railway, and Colney Hatch, 61/2 M. to the N. of London, on the Great Northern Railway.

Near the hospital, at the corner of St. George's Road and Westminster Bridge Road, stands the principal Roman Catholic church in London, St. George's Cathedral (Pl. R, 33), begun by Pugin in the Gothic style in 1840, and completed, with the exception of the tower, in 1848.

In Newington Butts, a little to the E., near the well-known inn, the Elephant and Castle (p. 78), is the Tabernacle of the popular preacher Mr. Spurgeon, built in the classic style, and accommodating 6000 persons (comp. p. 51). - An elegant Nonconformist chapel, called Christchurch, has been erected in Westminster Bridge Road, partly with American contributions, for the congregation of the late celebrated Rowland Hill, of Surrey Chapel. The beautiful tower and spire are a memorial of President Lincoln.

Doulton's Pottery Works, on the Albert Embankment, above Lambeth Palace, have obtained a high artistic reputation and are well worth a visit.

Battersea Park (Pl. G, 14, 15, 18, 19), at the S.W. end of London, on the right bank of the Thames, opposite Chelsea Hospital, was laid out in 1852-58 at a cost of 312,8901., and is 185 acres in extent. It is most conveniently reached by taking a steamboat to Battersea Park Pier. At the lower end of the park is the elegant Chelsea Bridge, leading to Pimlico, and 1/2 M. distant from the Sloane Square and Victoria stations of the Metropolitan Railway. From the upper end of the park the Albert Suspension Bridge crosses to the Chelsea Embankment. Near the S.E. angle of the park are Battersea Park Station of the West London Extension and the Battersea Park Road Station of the Metropolitan Extension (see p. 34). The principal attraction of the extensive pleasuregrounds, which are provided with an artificial sheet of water, groups of trees, etc., is the Sub-tropical Garden, 4 acres in extent, containing most beautiful and carefully cultivated flower-beds and tropical plants, which are in perfection in August and September. Near the N. entrance is a convenient refreshment-room, and in the vicinity there is a good restaurant. On the S. side of the park is the Albert Palace (p. 43).

Dives' Flour Mills, Battersea, to the E. of the parish-church of St. Mary, occupy the site of the manor-house of Henry St. John, Viscount Bolingbroke (1678-1751). The W. wing still remains, containing the cedar-wainscotted room, overlooking the Thames,