which it stands, and wants the equestrian effigy with which the sculptor intended it to be crowned. The bas-reliefs on the walls of the chapel are by Calder Marshall (E. end) and Woodington (W. end). The wooden screen between the chapel and the nave was carved by Grinling Gibbons.

At the end of the nave is the Crimean Monument, to the memory of the officers of the Coldstream Guards who fell at Inkerman in 1854, a relief by Marochetti, with the colours of the regiment hung above.

We now reach the Grand Entrance (W.), which is a favourable point for a survey of the whole length of the nave. The new reredos also looks well from this point. Passing the entrance, we come to the Morning Chapel, which is handsomely decorated with marble. The mosaic, representing the Risen Saviour, was executed by Salviati, and commemorates Archdeacon Hale. The stained-glass window is a memorial of Dean Mansel (1868-71). Then to the left, in the N. AISLE:

L. The Crimean Cavalry Monument, in memory of the officers and men of the British cavalry who fell in the Crimean war (1854-56).

L. Major-General Sir Herbert Stewart, who died in 1885 of wounds received at the battle of Abu-kru, Egypt; bronze medallion and reliefs by Boehm.

L. Major-General Charles George Gordon, killed at Khartoum in 1885; sarcophagus-tomb, with bronze effigy by Boehm.

L. Lord William Melbourne (d. 1848) and Lord Frederick Melbourne (d. 1853), by Marochetti. Two angels guard the closed entrance to the tomb. On each side is a brass plate, on which are inscribed the names of the officers and crew (484 in number) of the ill-starred line-of-battle ship Captain, which foundered with all hands off Cape Finisterre on 7th Sept., 1870.

In the N. TRANSEPT (W. side):

L. Sir Joshua Reynolds (d. 1792), the celebrated painter, statue by Flaxman. Upon the broken column to his left is a medallionportrait of Michael Angelo.

L. Admiral Lord Rodney (d. 1792), by Rossi. At his feet, to the left, is History listening to the Goddess of Fame (on the right), who recounts the Admiral's exploits.

L. Lieutenant-General Sir Thomas Picton (killed at Waterloo in 1815), by Gahagan. In front of his bust is a Goddess of Victory presenting a crown of laurels to a warrior, upon whose shoulder leans the Genius of Immortality.

R. Admiral Earl St. Vincent (d. 1823), the victor at Cape St. Vincent; statue by Baily.

L. General William Francis Patrick Napier (d. 1860), the historian of the Peninsular War, by Adams.

In the S. aisle, near the S. transept (Pl. a), is the entrance to the UPPER PARTS of the church (admission, see p. 84). Ascending about 110 steps, we reach a gallery (above the S. aisle), a room at the end of which contains the Library (9000 volumes; portrait of the founder, Bishop Compton). The flooring consists of artistically executed mosaic in wood. The large, self-supporting, winding staircase, called the Geometrical Staircase, is interesting only on account of its age. The Great Bell (cast in 1716; 88 steps) and the large Clock (constructed in 1708; 13 steps more), in the N. W. tower, are scarcely interesting enough to repay the fatigue of ascending to them. The minute hand of the clock is nearly 10 ft. long.

The Whispering Gallery, in the interior of the cupola, reached by a flight of steps from the library (260 steps from the floor of the church), is remarkable for a curious echo, which resembles that of the Salle d'Echo in the Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers at Paris. A slight whisper uttered by the wall on one side of the gallery is distinctly audible to an ear near the wall on the other side, a distance of 108 ft. in a direct line, or 160 ft. round the semicircle. This is the best point of view for Thornhill's ceiling-paintings, and from it we also obtain a fine survey of the interior of the church.

From this point a flight of 118 steps leads to the *Stone Gallery, an outer gallery, enclosed by a stone parapet, which runs round the foot of the outer dome. This gallery commands an admirable view of the city. The survey is still more extensive from the outer Golden Gallery above the dome and at the foot of the lantern, to which a winding staircase ascends in the inside of the roof. The Ball (p. 84) on the lantern is 45 ft. higher (616 steps from the tesselated pavement of the church). Visitors, however, are not at present admitted to either the Golden Gallery or the Ball.

At the S. end of the transept is the door leading down into the *CRYPT (Pl. b). Here we are first conducted to the left into a chamber lighted by four candelabra of polished granite, in the centre of which stands the sarcophagus of Wellington (d. 1852), consisting of a huge block of porphyry, resting on a granite base. Adjacent is the sarcophagus of Sir Thomas Picton (p.87), who fell at Waterloo in 1815. Farther on, exactly under the centre of the dome, is the black marble sarcophagus of Nelson (d. 1805), containing an inner coffin made of part of the mainmast of the French flag-ship L'Orient, which was blown up at Aboukir. This sarcophagus, said to be the work of Torregiano (p. 209), was originally ordered by Card. Wolsey for himself (comp. p. 338). The smaller sarcophagus on the S. is that of Nelson's comrade, Admiral Collingwood (d. 1810), while on the N. is that of the Earl of Northesk.

We next notice two tabular monuments in memory of two officers who fell at Trafalgar in 1805, placed here recently to make room for the reconstruction of the organ at the entrance to the choir. In a chamber behind Nelson's sarcophagus is the hearse used at the Duke of Wellington's funeral, with its trappings. It was cast from guns captured in the victories of the 'Iron Duke'.

In a straight direction from the staircase we reach the vaults, which contain busts and fragments of monuments from the earlier building (i.e. prior to 1666). The flooring consists of memorial slabs of celebrated artists and others. Among these are John Rennie, builder of Waterloo Bridge; Robert Mylne, who built several other London bridges; Benjamin West; Sir Joshua Reynolds; Sir Thomas Lawrence; Sir Edwin Landseer; John Opie; J. M. W. Turner (buried, at his own dying request, near Reynolds); Thos. Newton, Dean of the Cathedral; and Dean Milman. Sir Christopher Wren, the architect of St. Paul's, and his wife, Samuel Johnson, William Babington, Sir Astley Cooper, George Cruikshank, Sir Bartle Frere, and Sir William Jones also repose here. A space at the E. end of the crypt, used as a morning chapel, possesses a fine mosaic pavement.

In May an annual festival is held in St. Paul's for the benefit of the sons of deceased clergymen. Admission by tickets, procured at the Corporation House, 2 Bloomsbury Place, Bloomsbury Square, W.C. The Charity School Festivals formerly held in St. Paul's have been discontinued on account of the interruption to the services caused by the erection of the necessary scaffolding.

The clerical establishment of the cathedral consists of the Dean, four Canons, 30 Prebendaries, 12 Minor Canons, and 6 Vicars Choral. Sydney Smith and R. H. Barham, author of the 'Ingoldsby Legends', were canons of St. Paul's. For a full account of this noble church, see Dean Milman's 'Annals of St. Paul's'.

The street round the cathedral, called St. Paul's Churchyard, has been much improved by the removal of the railings before the western front of the Cathedral, which has widened the street and facilitated the passage of pedestrians, as well as given a better view of the building. On the three other sides the church is still surrounded by high and heavy railings, but the stone walls supporting them have recently been lowered with advantage to a height of eighteen inches. In the 16th cent. St. Paul's Churchyard was open to Paternoster Row, with a few intervening buildings, all belonging to the precincts. These disappeared in the Great Fire.

[Celebrated coffee-houses in the Churchyard, where authors and booksellers used to meet, were St. Paul's Coffee-House, near the archway leading to Doctors' Commons; Child's Coffee-House, a great resort of the clergy and literati; and the Queen's Arms Tavern, often visited by Dr. Johnson. They were also frequented by the lawyers of Doctors' Commons. Among the famous eighteenth century publishers of St. Paul's Churchyard may be mentioned Johnson, Hunter, Newbery, and Rivington. For Newbery, the site of whose shop (rebuilt in 1885), at the corner next Ludgate Hill, is now occupied by Griffith and Farran, Goldsmith is said to have written 'Goody Two Shoes', amongst other books.

90

2. General Post Office. Christ's Hospital. Newgate. Holborn.

Paternoster Row. Peel's Statue. Central Criminal Court. St. Sepulchre's. Holborn Viaduct.

Leaving St. Paul's Churchyard, on the N. side of the church, we enter Paternoster Row (so called from the prayer - books formerly sold in it), the chief seat of the publishers and booksellers. To the W., in Stationers' Hall Court, off Ludgate Hill, is situated Stationers' Hall, the guild-house of the booksellers and stationers.

This company is one of the few London guilds the majority of whose members actually practise their nominal craft. The society lost its monopoly of publishing almanacks in 1771, but still carries on this business extensively. The company distinguished itself in 1631 by printing a Bible with the word 'not' omitted in the seventh commandment. Every work published in Great Britain must be registered at Stationers' Hall to secure the copyright. The hall contains portraits of Richardson, the novelist (Master of the Company in 1754), and his wife, Prior, Steele, Bunyan, and others; also West's painting of King Alfred sharing his loaf with the pilgrim St. Cuthbert.

At the E. end of Paternoster Row, at the entrance to Cheapside (p. 101), rises the Statue of Sir Robert Peel (d. 1850), by Behnes. Immediately to the N., on the E. side of St. Martin's le Grand, is the General Post Office East (Pl. R, 39, and III; comp. p. 53), built in the Ionic style in 1825-29, from designs by Smirke. In this building, 390 ft. in length, Letters and Newspapers are dealt with and all the ordinary business of a postal-telegraph office carried on. Parcels are received here, but are at once sent on to the Parcel Post Office at Mount Pleasant, Farringdon Road (formerly Coldbath Fields Prison). To the S. of the portico is the 'Poste Restante' Office. This is the headquarters of the London Postal District, and the vast City correspondence is all dealt with here. The Returned Letter Office is in Moorgate Street Buildings, off Moorgate Street, where boards are exhibited with lists of persons whose addresses have not been discovered.

POSTAL TRAFFIC. The number of letters transmitted by post in the United Kingdom in 1874 was 962,000,000, in 1876 it was 1,019,000,000, and in 1885-86 no less than 1,403,547,900, or 39 letters per head of population. Besides letters, 259,000,000 book-packets and newspapers, and 79,000,000 post-cards, were delivered in 1874; 298,000,000 newspapers and book-packets, and 93,000,000 post-cards, in 1876; and 489,928,500 newspapers and book-packets, and 171,290,000 post-cards, in 1885-86. About 23 per cent of the letters and other postal packets received from abroad come from the United States, while 20 per cent of those dispatched from the United Kingdom are addressed to that country. In the same period the Parcel Post forwarded 26,417,422 parcels. The sums of money sent by postoffice orders, notwithstanding the universal practice of transmitting money by cheque, and the limitation of the orders to ten pounds, are very considerable. Thus in 1874 there were issued 15,100,562 inland post-office orders representing a sum of 26,296,4411. The introduction of postal orders diverted part of this stream of money, and in 1885-6 the number of post office orders had sunk to 10,358,000. In that year 25,790,369 postal orders were also issued, amounting in value to 10,788,9461. The Post Office Savings Banks, established in 1861, hold at present about 51,000,000l. on deposit. The profits of the English Post Office Department in 1885-86 amounted to 2,708,8821.

Opposite to the General Post Office East stands the General Post Office West, containing the Administrative Offices and the Telegraph Department. This imposing building was erected in 187073 at a cost of 485,000l. The large Telegraph Instrument Galleries, extending the whole length of the building and measuring 300 by 90 ft., should be visited (admission by request from a banker or other well-known citizen). They contain 500 instruments with their attendants. On the sunk-floor are four steam-engines of 50 horsepower each, by means of which messages are forwarded through pneumatic tubes to the other offices in the City and Strand district. The number of telegrams conveyed in the year ending 31st March, 1886, was 39,235,900.

The vast and ever-growing business of the General Post Office has long found itself straitened for room even in these huge buildings, and extensive additions have been begun to the N. To secure a site for these the Queen's Hotel, the Bull & Mouth Hotel, the French Protestant Church, and numerous other buildings have been pulled down.

To the N. of the Post Office lies Aldersgate Street, a little to the E. of which is Monkwell Street (reached by Falcon Street and Silver Street), containing the Barber-Surgeons' Court Room. Among the curiosities preserved here are a valuable portrait of Henry VIII. by Holbein, and one of Inigo Jones by Vandyck. Milton once lived in Aldersgate Street, and afterwards in Jewin Street, a side-street on the right.

To the W. of the General Post Office is NEWGATE STREET, a great omnibus thoroughfare, leading to Holborn and Oxford Street. This neighbourhood has long been the quarter of the butchers. In Panyer Alley, the first cross-lane to the left, once inhabited by basket-makers, is an old relief of a boy sitting upon a 'panier'. with the inscription:

'When ye have sought the city round,
Yet still this is the highest ground.

August the 27th, 1688'.

Farther on, opposite the site of old Newgate Market, is a passage on the right leading to

Christ's Hospital (Pl. R, 39; III), a school for 1200 boys and 100 girls, founded by Edward VI., with a yearly income from land and funded property of 60,000l., not all of which, however, is devoted to educational purposes. It occupies the site of an ancient monastery of the Grey Friars, founded in the 13th cent., and once the burial-place of many illustrious persons. The general government of the school is in the hands of a large 'Court of Governors', consisting of noblemen and other gentlemen of position; but the internal and real management is conducted by the President, Treasurer, and 'Committee of Almoners', fifty in number. The original costume of the boys is still retained, consisting of long blue gowns, yellow stockings, and knee-breeches. No head-covering is worn