even in winter. The pupils (Blue Coat Boys), who are admitted between the ages of eight and ten, must be the children of parents whose income is insufficient for their proper education and maintenance. They are first sent to the preparatory school at Hertford, whence they are transferred according to their progress to the city establishment. Their education, which is partly of a commercial nature, is completed at the age of sixteen. A few of the more talented pupils are, however, prepared for a university career, and form the two highest classes of the school, known as the Grecians and Deputy-Grecians. There are also 40 King's Boys, forming the mathematical school founded by Charles II. in 1672. The school possessed many ancient privileges, some of which it still retains. On New Year's Day the King's Boys used to appear at Court; and on Easter Tuesday the entire school is presented to the Lord Mayor, at the Mansion House, when each boy receives the gift of a coin fresh from the Mint. A line in the swimming-bath marks the junction of three parishes. In the Hall, which was erected by Shaw in 1825-29, the head-pupils annually deliver a number of public orations. The 'suppings in public' on each Thursday in Lent, at 7 p.m., are worth attending (tickets from governors). Among the pictures on the walls are the Founding of the Hospital by Edward VI., ascribed to Holbein; Presentation of the King's Boys at the Court of James II., a very large work by Verrio; Portraits of the Queen and Prince Albert, by Grant. Among the celebrated men who were educated here we may mention William Camden, Stillingfleet, Middleton, Dyer, Samuel Richardson, S. T. Coleridge, Charles Lamb, Leigh Hunt, and Sir Henry Sumner Maine (d. 1888).

Opposite Christ's Hospital is Warwick Lane, leading out of Newgate Street. On the wall of the first house from Newgate Street on the right is a curious relief of 1668, representing Warwick, the 'King-maker'.

At the W. end of Newgate St., at the corner of Old Bailey, stands Newgate Prison (Pl. R, 35; II), once the principal prison of London, now used as a temporary house of detention for prisoners awaiting trial at the Old Bailey Court. The present building, which was begun in 1770 by George Dance, was partly destroyed in 1780, before its completion, by the Gordon rioters, but was restored in 1782. The principal façade, looking towards the Old Bailey, is 300 ft. in length. The interior was rebuilt in 1858 on the separate cell system. Permission to inspect the prison, which has accommodation for 192 prisoners, is granted by the Secretary of State for the Home Department, the Lord Mayor, and the Sheriffs. The public place of execution, which was formerly at Tyburn near Hyde Park, was afterwards for a long period in front of Newgate, but criminals are not now hanged in public. Among the famous or notorious prisoners once confined in old Newgate were George Wither, Daniel Defoe, Jack Sheppard, Titus Oates,

and William Penn. Old London Wall had a gateway at the bottom of Newgate Street, by Newgate Prison.

Adjoining Newgate is the Central Criminal Court, consisting of two divisions; viz. the Old Court for the trial of grave offences, and the New Court for petty offences. The trials are public, but as the courts are often crowded, a fee of 1-5s., according to the interest of the case, must generally be given to the door-keeper to secure a good seat. At great trials, however, tickets of admission are usually issued by the aldermen and sheriffs.

No. 68 Old Bailey, near Ludgate Hill, was the house of the infamous thief-catcher, Jonathan Wild, himself hanged in 1725.

A little to the W. of Newgate begins the *Holborn Viaduct (Pl. R, 35, 36; II), a triumph of the art of modern street-building, designed by Haywood, and completed in 1869. Its name is a reminiscence of the 'Hole-Bourne', the name given to the upper course of the Fleet (p. 134), from its running through a deep hollow. This structure, 465 yds. long and 27 yds. broad, extending from Newgate to Hatton Garden, was constructed in order to overcome the serious obstruction to the traffic between Oxford Street and the City caused by the steep descent of Holborn Hill. Externally the viaduct, which is constructed almost entirely of iron, is not visible, as rows of new buildings extend along either side. Beneath the roadway are vaults for commercial purposes, and subways for gas and water pipes, telegraph wires, and sewage, while at the sides are the cellars of the houses. At the E. extremity, to the right, stands St. Sepulchre's Church, with its square tower, where a knell is tolled on the occasion of an execution at Newgate. At one time a nosegay was presented at this church to every criminal on his way to execution at Tyburn. On the S. side of the choir lie the remains of the gallant Captain John Smith (d. 1631), 'Sometime Governour of Virginia and Admirall of New England'. The first line of the now nearly illegible epitaph runs thus: 'Here lies one conquer'd that hath conquer'd kings!' Roger Ascham, author of 'The Scholemaster' and teacher of Lady Jane Grey, is also buried here.

Obliquely opposite, to the left, is the Holborn Viaduct Station of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway (p. 33), and near it is the Imperial Hotel (p. 10). The iron *Bridge over Farringdon Street (which traverses Holborn Valley, p. 134) is 39 yds. long and is supported by 12 columns of granite, each 4 ft. in diameter. On the parapet are bronze statues of Art, Science, Commerce, and Agriculture; on the corner-towers, statues of famous Lord Mayors. Flights of steps descend in the towers to Farringdon Street.

To the left, beyond the bridge, are the City Temple (Congregational church; Dr. Joseph Parker; see p. 51) and St. Andrew's Church, where Lord Beaconsfield was christened, the latter erected in 1686 by Wren. Nearly opposite the church is the entrance to Ely Place, formerly the site of the celebrated palace of the bishops of Ely, where John of Gaunt, brother of the Black Prince and father of Henry IV., died in 1399. The chapel of the palace, known as *Ely Chapel (St. Etheldreda's; see p. 52), escaped the fire of 1666 and has been recently restored. It is a good specimen of 14th cent. architecture and retains its original oaken roof. The noble E. and W. windows are splendid examples of tracery, and the former is filled with fine stained glass. The crypt is also worth visiting, and the quaint cloister, planted with fig-trees, forms a strangely quiet nook amid the roar of Holborn. A little farther on is Holborn Circus, embellished with an Equestrian Statue of Prince Albert, by Bacon, with allegorical figures and reliefs on the granite pedestal. The new and wide Charterhouse Street leads hence in a N.E. direction to Smithfield (p. 95) and the Farringdon Street Station of the Metropolitan Railway (p. 36). On the W. side of the Circus begins Holborn, leading to Oxford Street and Bayswater; see p. 225. On the N. side of Holborn are the Black Bull and the Old Bell, two survivals of the old-fashioned inns, with galleried court-yards, and Furnival's Inn, formerly an inn of chancery (comp. p. 139), entirely rebuilt in 1818. Charles Dickens was living at Furnival's Inn, when he began the 'Pickwick Papers'. On the opposite side of the street are Barnard's Inn and Staple Inn, two quaint and picturesque old inns of chancery (comp. p. 139), celebrated by Dickens.

3. St. Bartholomew's Hospital. Smithfield.
St. Giles, Cripplegate. Charterhouse.

St. Bartholomew's Hospital (Pl. R, 40; II), in Smithfield, to the N. of Christ's Hospital, is the oldest and one of the wealthiest benevolent institutions in London. In 1123 Rahere, a favourite of Henry I., founded here a priory and hospital of St. Bartholomew, which were enlarged by Richard Whittington, Lord Mayor of London. The hospital was refounded by Henry VIII. on the suppression of the monasteries in 1547. The present large quadrangular edifice was erected by Gibbs in 1730-33, and has two entrances. Above the W. gate, towards Smithfield, built in 1702, is a statue of Henry VIII., with a sick man and a cripple at the sides. An inscription on the external wall commemorates the burning of three Protestant martyrs in the reign of Queen Mary (p. 95). Within the gate is the church of St. Bartholomew the Less, originally built by Rahere, but re-erected in 1823. The hospital enjoys a yearly revenue of 40,000l., and contains 676 beds, in which 6000 раtients are annually attended. Relief is also given to about 140,000 out-patients. Cases of accident are taken in at any hour of the day or night, and receive immediate and gratuitous attention.

The Medical School connected with the hospital is famous. It has numbered among its teachers Harvey, the discoverer of the circulation of the blood, Abernethy, and other renowned physicians. The lectures are delivered in the Anatomical Theatre, built in 1842. There are also Museums of Anatomy and Botany, a well-furnished Library, and a Chemical Laboratory. The medical school has recently been rebuilt and enlarged.

The great hall contains a few good portraits, among which we notice an old portrait of Henry VIII. (not by Holbein); Dr. Radcliffe, physician to Queen Anne, by Kneller; Perceval Pott, for 42 years surgeon to the Institution, by Sir Joshua Reynolds; Abernethy, the physician, by Sir Thomas Lawrence. The paintings on the grand staircase, the Good Samaritan, the Pool of Bethesda, Rahere as founder of the Hospital, and a Sick man borne by monks, are the work of Hogarth, who executed them gratuitously, and was in return made a Governor for life.

The neighbouring *Church of St. Bartholomew the Great, chiefly in the Anglo-Norman style, restored in 1865-69 and again in 1886, merits attention (keys at 1 Church Passage, Cloth Fair). With the exception of the chapel in the Tower (p. 120), which is 20 years earlier, this is the oldest church in the City of London. Like the Hospital (p. 94) it was founded by Rahere in 1123, sixty years before the foundation of the Temple Church (p. 136).

The existing church, consisting merely of the choir, the crossing, and one bay of the nave of the original Priory Church, is mainly pure Norman work as left by Rahere. Other portions of the church were alienated or destroyed by Henry VIII. From Smithfield we pass through an arched gateway, with fine dog-toothed moulding, which formed the entrance either to the nave or to an inner court, now the graveyard. Here may be seen some remains of the E.E. piers of the nave, which was somewhat later than the choir. In the 14th cent. the apsidal end of the choir was replaced by a square ending, with one large window, the jambs of which still remain. The clerestory was rebuilt at the same time and a fine Lady Chapel thrown out to the E. of the high-altar. This chapel was long used as a fringe manufactory, being mutilated almost beyond recognition, but was repurchased in 1886 for 65001. Prior Bolton made farther alterations in the 16th cent. and his rebus (a 'bolt' through a 'tun') may be seen at the base of the beautiful oriel on the S. side of the choir and on the doorway at the E. end of the S. ambulatory. The present apse was built in the recent restoration, and has restored the choir to something of its original beauty. Funds, however, are still needed to remove the blacksmith's forge which occupies the N. transept and to complete the restoration of other parts of the church (photographs of the church sold by the verger, prices 6d.-2s.; description of the church 1s.).

The Tombs are worthy of attention. That of the founder, on the N. side of the sanctuary, with its rich canopy, is much later than the efigy of Rahere resting upon it. In the S. ambulatory is the handsome tomb, in alabaster, of Sir Walter Mildmay (d. 1589), Chancellor of the Exchequer to Queen Elizabeth and founder of Emmanuel College, Cambridge. Many of the epitaphs are curious. At the W. end of the church is a tasteful oaken screen, erected in 1839.

Among the notable men who have lived in Bartholomew Close are Milton, Franklin, Hogarth (who was baptized in the existing font), Dr. Caius, and Washington Irving.

The adjoining market-place of Smithfield (Pl. R, 36, 40; II), a name said to have been originally Smooth-field, was formerly a tournament ground, and lay outside the walls of London. Here Bartholomew Fair, with its revels, was held for many ages. Shamfights, tilts, tricks of acrobats, and even miracle-plays were exhibited. Wat Tyler was slain here in 1381 by the then Lord Mayor, Sir William Walworth; and here in the reign of 'Bloody Mary' many of the persecuted Protestants, including Rogers, Bradford, and Philpot, suffered death at the stake, while under Elizabeth several Nonconformists met with a similar fate. Smithfield was the place of public execution before Tyburn, and in 1305 witnessed the beheading of the Scottish patriot, William Wallace. Subsequently, during a long period, Smithfield was the only cattle-market of London. The space having at length become quite inadequate, the cattle-market was removed to Copenhagen Fields (comp. p. 27) in 1855, after much opposition from the Corporation, and in 1862-68 the *Central London Meat Market was erected here. The building, designed by Horace Jones, is in a pleasing Renaissance style, with four towers at the corners. It is 630 ft. long, 245 ft. broad, and 30 ft. high, and covers an area of 31/2 acres. The roof is of glass and iron. A broad carriage-road intersects the market from N. to S.

Below the building is an extensive Railway Depôt, belonging to the Great Western Co., and connected with several underground railways, from which the meat is conveyed to the market by a lift. In the centre of Smithfield is a small garden, with a handsome fountain. The road winding round the garden leads down to the subterranean area below the market, which is a sufficiently curious specimen of London underground life to repay the descent.

To the W. of the Meat Market is the new Market for Pork, Poultry, and Provisions, which was opened for business in 1876. It is by the same architect and in the same style as the Meat Market, and measures 260 by 245 ft. Still farther to the W. (on the E. side of Farringdon Street) stands another market, erected in 1885 as a fish-market at a cost of 435,000г., but now being converted into a Fruit and Vegetable Market. A new Fish Market has been erected in Snow Hill, immediately to the S. Smithfield Market affords a sight not easily paralleled, and deserves a visit.

Charterhouse Street, a broad and handsome thoroughfare, leads to the W. from Smithfield to Holborn (p. 94).

A little to the E. of Smithfield is the church of St. Giles (Pl. R. 40), Cripplegate, built in 1545 (approached by an archway in Red Cross Street).

It contains the tombs of John Milton (d. 1674), who wrote 'Paradise Lost' in a house in this parish, now pulled down: Foxe (d. 1587), the martyrologist; Frobisher (d. 1594), the voyager; and Speed (d. 1629), the topographer. Oliver Cromwell was married in this church (Aug. 22nd, 1620), and the parish register contains an entry of the burial of Daniel Defoe (d. 1731). Milton is commemorated by a good bust, by Bacon, and a stained-glass window has been erected to his memory by Mr. G. W. Childs of Philadelphia. Comp. J. J. Baddeley's 'Account of the Church and Parish of St. Giles' (1888).

In the churchyard is an old bastion of London Wall, and close by, in London Wall, is a small part of the churchyard of St. Alphage, containing another large and interesting fragment of the old wall (p. 63).

To the E. of St. Giles, running N. from Fore Street to Chiswell Street, is Milton Street, better known as the 'Grub Street' of Pope and his contemporaries.