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1775.

fizes, according to the age;-flints of wood. The building is very large, but Atat. 66. nothing fine, except the council-room. The French have large fquares in the

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windows;—they make good iron palifades. Their meals are grofs.

"We visited the Obfervatory, a large building of a great height. The upper ftones of the parapet very large, but not cramped with iron. The flat on the top is very extenfive; but on the infulated part there is no parapet. Though it was broad enough, I did not care to go upon it. Maps were printing in one of the rooms.

"We walked to a fmall convent of the Fathers of the Oratory. In the reading-desk of the refectory lay the Lives of the Saints.

"Oct. 11. Wednesday. We went to fee Hôtel de Chatlois, a house not very large, but very elegant. One of the rooms was gilt to a degree that I never faw before. The upper part for fervants and their masters was pretty. "Thence we went to Mr. Monville's, a house divided into small apartments, furnished with effeminate and minute elegance.-Porphyry.

"Thence we went to St. Roque's church, which is very large;-the lower part of the pillars incrufted with marble.-Three chapels behind the high altar; the last a mass of low arches.-Altars, I believe, all round.

"We paffed through Place de Vendôme, a fine fquare, about as big as Hanover-fquare.-Inhabited by the high families.-Lewis XIV. on horfeback in the middle.

"Monville is the fon of a farmer-general. In the house of Chatlois is a room furnished with japan, fitted up in Europe.

"We dined with Boccage, the Marquis Blanchetti, and his lady.-The sweetmeats taken by the Marchioness Blanchetti, after observing that they were dear.-Mr. Le Roy, Count Manucci the Abbé, the Prior, and Father Wilson, who ftaid with me, till I took him home in the coach.

"Bathiani is gone.

"The French have no laws for the maintenance of their poor.-Monk not neceffarily a priest.-Benedictines rife at four ;-are at church an hour and half; at church again half an hour before, half an hour after dinner; and again from half an hour after feven to eight. They may fleep eight hours.-Bodily labour wanted in monafteries.

"The poor taken to hofpitals, and miferably kept.-Monks in the convent fifteen-accounted poor.

"Oct. 12. Thurfday. We went to the Gobelins.-Tapestry makes a good picture-imitates flefh exactly.-One piece with a gold ground;-the birds not exactly coloured.-Thence we went to the King's cabinet;very neat,

not,

not, perhaps, perfect.-Gold ore.-Candles of the candle-tree.-Seeds.Woods.-Thence to Gagnier's house, where I faw rooms nine, furnished with a profufion of wealth and elegance which I never have seen before.-Vases.Pictures.-The dragon china.-The luftre faid to be of crystal, and to have coft 3,500l.-The whole furniture faid to have coft 125,000l.-Damask hangings covered with pictures.-Porphyry.-This house struck me.—Then we waited on the ladies to Monville's.-Captain Irwin with us.-Spain. County towns all beggars.-At Dijon he could not find the way to Orleans.-Cross roads of France very bad.-Five foldiers.-Woman.-Soldiers escaped.The Colonel would not lofe five men for the death of one woman.-The magistrate cannot seize a foldier but by the Colonel's permiffion.-Good inn at Nifmes.-Moors of Barbary fond of Englishmen.-Gibraltar eminently healthy;—it has beef from Barbary.-There is a large garden.-Soldiers fometimes fall from the rock.

"Oct. 13. Friday. I ftaid at home all day, only went to find the Prior, who was not at home.-I read fomething in Canus 7.-Nec admiror, nec multum laudo. "Oct. 14. Saturday. We went to the house of Mr. Argenfon, which was almost wainscotted with looking-glaffes, and covered with gold.-The ladies' closet wainscotted with large fquares of glafs over painted paper. They always place mirrours to reflect their rooms.

"Then we went to Julien's, the Treasurer of the Clergy:-30,000l. a year. The house has no very large room, but is fet with mirrours, and covered with gold.-Books of wood here, and in another library.

"At D's I looked into the books in the lady's clofet, and, in contempt, fhewed them to Mr. T.-Prince Titi; Bibl. des Fées, and other books.She was offended, and shut up, as we heard afterwards, her apartment. "Then we went to Julien Le Roy, the King's watch-maker, a man of character in his business, who fhewed a small clock made to find the longitude. A decent man.

--

"Afterwards we faw the Palais Marchand, and the Courts of Juftice, civil and criminal. Queries on the Sellette.-This building has the old Gothick paffages, and a great appearance of antiquity.-Three hundred prifoners fometimes in the gaol..

<< Much disturbed ;-hope no ill will be3.

• The reft of this paragraph appears to be a minute of what was told by Captain Irwin.

7 Melchior Canus, a celebrated Spanish Dominican, who died at Toledo, in 1560. He wrote a treatise De Locis Theologicis, in twelve books.

Diary.

This paffage, which fome may think fuperftitious, reminds me of Archbishop Laud's

1775.

Etat. 66.

6.

"In.

1775.

"In the afternoon I vifited Mr. Freron the journalist. He fpoke Latin very Etat. 66. fcantily, but feemed to understand me.-His houfe not fplendid, but of commodious fize.-His family, wife, fon, and daughter, not elevated but decent. I was pleafed with my reception. - He is to translate my book, which I am to fend him with notes.

"Oct. 15. Sunday. At Choifi, a royal palace on the banks of the Seine, about 7 m. from Paris.-The terrace noble along the river.-The rooms numerous and grand, but not difcriminated from other palaces.-The chapel beautiful, but fimall.-China globes.-Inlaid table.-Labyrinth.-Sinking table.-Toilet tables.

"Oct. 16. Monday. The Palais Royal very grand, large, and lofty.—A very great collection of pictures.-Three of Raphael.-Two Holy Family.One small piece of M. Angelo.-One room of Rubens.-I thought the pictures of Raphael fine.

"The Thuilleries.-Statues.-Venus.-Æn. and Anchifes in his arms. Nilus. Many more.-The walks not open to mean perfons.-Chairs at night hired for two fous a piece.-Pont tournant.

"Austin Nuns.-Grate.-Mrs. Fermor, Abbefs.-She knew Pope, and thought him difagreeable.-Mrs. has many books ;-has feen life.Their frontlet difagreeable.—Their hood.-Their life easy.-Rife about five; hour and half in chapel.-Dine at ten.-Another hour and half at chapel; half an hour about three, and half an hour more at feven:-four hours in chapel.-A large garden.-Thirteen penfioners.-Teacher complained.

"At the Boulevards faw nothing, yet was glad to be there.-Rope-dancing and farce.-Egg dance.

"N. [Note.] Near Paris, whether on week-days or Sundays, the roads empty.

"Oct. 17. Tuesday. At the Palais Marchand.-I bought

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"We heard the lawyers plead.-N. As many killed at Paris as there are days in the year.-Chambre de queftion.-Tournelle at the Palais Marchand.— An old venerable building.

"The Palais Bourbon, belonging to the Prince of Condé. Only one fmall wing shown;-lofty ; - fplendid;-gold and glass.-The battles of the great

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great Condé are painted in one of the rooms. The prefent Prince a grandfire at thirty-nine.

"The fight of palaces, and other great buildings, leaves no very diftinct images, unless to thofe who talk of them, and imprefs them. As I entered, my wife was in my mind: fhe would have been pleafed. Having now nobody to please, I am little pleased.

"N. In France there is no middle rank.

"So many fhops open, that Sunday is little diftinguifhed at Paris.-The palaces of Louvre and Thuilleries granted out in lodgings.

"In the Palais de Bourbon, gilt globes of metal at the fire-place.
"The French beds commended.-Much of the marble, only paste.
"The Coloffeum a mere wooden building, at least much of it.

"Oct. 18. Wednesday. We went to Fontainebleau, which we found a large mean town, crouded with people.-The foreft thick with woods, very extenfive. -Manucci fecured us lodging.-The appearance of the country pleafant.-No hills, few ftreams, only one hedge.-I remember no chapels nor croffes on the road.-Pavement ftill, and rows of trees.

"N. Nobody but mean people walk in Paris.

"Oct. 19. Thursday. At court, we faw the apartments;-the King's bedchamber and council-chamber extremely fplendid.-Perfons of all ranks in the external rooms through which the family paffes;-fervants and mafters.Brunet with us the fecond time.

"The introductor came to us;-civil to me.-Prefenting.-I had fcruples. Not neceffary.We went and faw the King and Queen at dinner.We faw the other ladies at dinner-Madame Elizabeth, with the Princefs of Guimené.—At night we went to a comedy. I neither faw nor heard.— Drunken women.-Mrs. Th. preferred one to the other.

"Oct. 20. Friday. We saw the Queen mount in the foreft.-Brown habit; rode afide: one lady rode afide.-The Queen's horfe light grey;martingale. She galloped.-We then went to the apartments, and admired them. Then wandered through the palace. In the paffages, ftalls and shops.— Painting in fresco by a great mafter, worn out.-We faw the King's horfes and dogs. The dogs almost all English.-Degenerate.

"The horses not much commended.-The stables cool; the kennel filthy. "At night the ladies went to the opera. I refufed, but should have been welcome.

• His tender affection for his departed wife, of which there are many evidences in his "Prayers and Meditations," appears very feelingly in this paffage. Ttt "The

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Etat. 66.

3775.

Etat. 66.

"The King fed himself with his left hand as we.

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Saturday, 21.

In the night I got ground. We came home to Paris.I think we did not fee the chapel.-Tree broken by the wind.-The French chairs made all of boards painted.

"N. Soldiers at the court of juftice.-Soldiers not amenable to the magiftrates.-Dijon woman'.

Faggots in the palace.-Every thing flovenly, except in the chief rooms.
-Trees in the roads, fome tall, none old, many very young and small.
"Women's faddles feem ill made.--Queen's bridle woven with filver.—
Tags to ftrike the horse.

Sunday, Oct. 22. To Verfailles, a mean town.-Carriages of business pafling. Mean fhops against the wall.-Our way lay through Séve, where the China manufacture.-Wooden bridge at Séve, in the way to Versailles.— The palace of great extent.-The front long; I faw it not perfectly.-The Menagerie. Cygnets dark; their black feet; on the ground; tame.-Halcyons, or gulls.-Stag and hind, young.-Aviary, very large: the net, wire.-Black ftag of China, finall.-Rhinoceros, the horn broken and pared away, which, I fuppofe, will grow; the bafis, I think, four inches crofs; the fkin folds like loose cloth doubled over his body, and cross his hips; a vast animal though young; as big, perhaps, as four oxen.-The young elephant, with his tusks just appearing.-The brown bear put out his paws;-all very tame.—The lion. The tigers I did not well view.-The camel, or dromedary with two bunches, called the Huguin', taller than any horfe.-Two camels with one bunch.-Among the birds was a pelican, who being let out, went to a fountain, and fwam about to catch fish. His feet well webbed: he dipped his head, and turned his long bill fidewife. He caught two or three fish, but did not eat them.

"Trianon is a kind of retreat appendant to Verfailles. It has an open portico; the pavement, and, I think, the pillars, of marble.-There are many rooms which I do not diftinctly remember.-A table of porphyry, about five feet. long, and between two and three broad, given to Lewis XIV. by the Venetian State. In the council-room almoft all that was not door or window, was, I think, looking-glafs.-Little Trianon is a fmall palace like a gentleman's. houfe. The upper floor paved with brick.-Little Vienne.-The court is ill paved. The rooms at the top are finall, fit to footh the imagination with privacy. In the front of Verfailles are finall bafons of water on the terrace,

• See p. 503.

This epithet fhould be applied to this animal with one bunch.

and

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