the live stock therein preserved and executing them with her thumb-nail on the lid of the chest. At right angles with us was a young fellow, who smoked continually. Besides these, the sailors, or at least the head men amongst them, slept in the spare berths, and used the cabin as a dressingroom. In the evening, or when becalmed, they all sat in it, and all smoked, and expectorated, and talked, and laughed day and night. I was really obliged-or we should have been suffocated-to ask them to open the trapdoor above. They acceded readily. But is it not incredible that they were able themselves to endure such an amount of bad air? When morning broke, we were close to Jandia and its || isthmus of dune sand, like the Isleta, instead of being near Canaria. The sand hillocks are higher here, and the mountains of Jandia are higher than those of the Isleta. All day the sails flapped, and the boom groaned wearily as it swayed from side to side, while we endeavoured to make our way round the promontory. About two o'clock on Thursday morning a breeze sprang up, which carried us along swiftly; hope revived that we should reach Las Palmas for breakfast, as we could see its snow-covered cumbres, and with a horrid satisfaction begotten of starvation, the mind no longer controlled by the will, but subject to the pressing needs of the body, we gloated helplessly over various forms of food. Doubtless if we had asked for it the men would have shared their gofio and salt fish with us. It was not the food we minded, but the manner of eating and the surroundings. We could not make up our minds to eat out of the same dish with a number of dirty men, and to use the same, or half-washed spoons, especially as every hour we expected to reach Las Palmas. Gladly we left the Santiago, and at 5 P.M. landed on the mole. It is scarcely necessary to say that we hurried to the Fonda de Europa, thinking only of material wants after an absolute fast of forty-six hours. A week later we steamed from Las Palmas to Santa Cruz de Tenerife en route for home. Whatever may be the future advances of these wealthy islands and that they will advance in material prosperity, and that quickly, is nearly certain, for they possess such vast latent resources-we shall always rather remember them as we first found them: rough, wild, beautiful; toilsome to see, but happy to remember; peopled with quiet, contented, peaceloving, honest, and hospitable inhabitants, who pleasantly pass their days in the enjoyment of the good things so abundantly provided by nature, and beguile the starry nights with the song, the dance, and the tinkling of the guitar. We shall always recall the islands as they appeared to us-truly Happy Isles, the nearest approach to an Earthly Paradise of which a Morris could sing or a Tadema paint. "My land of the Sun, Am I not true? Have I not done And marvelled at thy matchless grace, APPENDIX I. ITINERARY AND EXPENSES CONNECTED WITH THE TOUR. In the following Tables it must be distinctly understood that each item is for TWO persons. The PESETA is taken in the Tables as the equivalent of exactly 10d. Hotel and Food Passage to Tenerife from Havre by Chargeurs Réunis steamship Parana (gratuities to stewards, wine, Travelling. £ s. ¿ Carriage from Santa Cruz to Laguna £ s. d. I 68 £16 8 Carriage from Laguna to Puerto de Orotava Luggage from Santa Cruz to Puerto de Orotava in a cart To see Guanche cave at Icod de los Vinos ... ... Wine, I p.; eggs, bread, and milk, 1 p. (Guia) Guide from Guia to Vilaflor ... ... : ... ... 500 :: O 35 5 2 4 52 Milk, 35c.; fowls, 2 p. 80c.; and dinner (Vilaflor) ... 2 20 Dinner at Guia, 3 p. 60 c.; eggs, bread, &c., I p. 4 60 3 O I 92 22 50 20 ... I 25 I ... ... ... 65 72 82 80 |