CHAPTER VI.

MACKENZIE'S OVERLAND JOURNEY.

ANOTHER GREAT EXPLORER.

Whilst Vancouver was engaged in

making his survey northward from Queen Charlotte Sound, another explorer was making his way from the east overland to the Pacific

coast. This was ALEXANDER MACKENZIE, a native of Stornoway, Scotland, who emigrated to Canada about the year 1779. On his arrival in Montreal, he entered the service of Mr. Gregory, an extensive fur dealer. In this employment he continued for five years, and afterwards for a short time carried on business on his own account. When the North-West Fur Company was formed, he became one of the partners. After much experience and successful dealing with the natives, we find him, in 1789, at Fort Chipeweyan, on Lake Athabasca or Lake of the Hills, near the north-eastern limit of the Rocky Mountains. This fort was then the principal western trading-post belonging to the Company.

ALEXANDER MACKENZIE.

HIS PERSONAL APPEARANCE.-Mackenzie is described as being possessed of a vigorous mind and a fine physique. In form, he was of medium stature and of square, muscular build, very strong, lithe and active, and capable of enduring great fatigue. His features were regular, eyes bright and searching, nose and mouth Grecian, and his forehead high, intellectual and crowned with dark, wavy hair. Firmness and weight marked the man in every attitude and expression. Lips, chin and facial illumination, all implied the possession of a will which would never rest satisfied until its purposes were accomplished. In thought, he was as refined and noble as in outward expression he was dignified. His energy was mild; not of the impatient, fretful order, and therefore well suited to his self-imposed task. His large, gentle eyes imparted to his decisive

features a suavity of expression of the utmost importance to him in dealing not only with his own men, who were sometimes inclined to be mutinous, but also with affrighted savages, who in him beheld the first white man they had ever seen.

He

HIS QUALIFICATIONS AND ENterprise. -Such a noble character, doubtless, was Alexander Mackenzie. His was a mind bent on enterprise, and filled with zeal for the benefit of his partners in trade and with a desire for the well-being of mankind in general. knew the extent of the great Saskatchewan River and its outlets through Lake Winnipeg and the Nelson River in Hudson Bay; and he determined to know all that could be known of the great river of the north, which, flowing out of Great Slave Lake, connected with Athabasca Lake and Peace River. He resolved to explore its length as far as practicable. It might be that his efforts would be the means of solving the problem of a northern water communication between the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. He weighed the matter thoroughly, and with the consent of his partners formed an expedition in 1789, consisting of four Canadians, two of whom were accompanied by their wives, and a German. An Indian and his two wives, in a small canoe, formed part of the expedition, also two young Indians in another small canoe. Those men were engaged to serve in the twofold capacity of interpreters and hunters.

EXPLORED MACKENZIE RIVER.-Leaving Fort Chipeweyan, on the south side of Athabasca, or the Lake of the Hills, he crossed that lake with his party, and joining Peace River at Salt Springs, followed the river to Great Slave Lake. Crossing that lake diagonally to the west corner, he debouched into the great river of the north and followed it to its outlets in the Arctic, or Frozen Ocean. The party were obliged to put up with considerable hardships during the trip, which, including the return, occupied one hundred and two days, but without any loss of life or any serious difficulty with the natives. After the expedition had gone but a short distance north, they met tribes, though not numerous, who had never seen a white man before. The river which Mackenzie had explored he named after himself, "Mackenzie River," a name which it still bears. From what he had seen in his journey to the Arctic Ocean, it was evident, he concluded, that no navigable water channel could exist between the Pacific and the Atlantic Oceans farther north than the outlet of Mackenzie River in the Arctic Ocean; he therefore resolved to find a route westward across the Continent direct to the Pacific, by way

of Peace River as far as the watershed or height of land which formed the head waters of that river.

HE CONSULTED HIS PARTNERS.-In Montreal, shortly afterwards, he consulted his partners, and pointed out to them the advantages which must follow by the extension of their trade westward to the Pacific. He proposed to visit London to ascertain from the reports of the latest discoveries by Captains Cook, Meares, and others, the corresponding latitude and longitude with Fort Chipeweyan and Peace River; and by studying astronomy and navigation, he could so shape his course and record his journeys and location that permanent advantages would be secured. They approved of his proposition and he proceeded to London, where he was well received and afforded every opportunity to obtain the required information and instruction. Being an apt student, he was not very long in acquiring the knowledge of which he was in quest.

THE WESTERN JOURNEY.-In 1792, we find Mr. Mackenzie, returned from England, after having crossed and recrossed the Atlantic and the eastern portion of the Continent of America, again at Fort Chipeweyan and prepared to embark on his proposed western journey over the unknown portion of the North American continent. On the 10th of October he left Fort Chipeweyan and proceeded again northerly across Lake Athabasca to Peace River. This time he turned westward up stream, with the intention, before the frost set in, of reaching the most westerly of the trading establishments which then occupied Peace River-they extended along the river a distance of about two hundred miles. He intended to winter there and prepare for a start as soon as spring would open. This he accomplished, arriving at New Establishment Post on the 20th of October.

THE WINTERING PLACE.-By the 1st of November he reached the proposed wintering place at Fort Fork, a short distance west of where the east branch of Peace River joins the main river. To this point Mackenzie had sent forward two men early in the season, to clear the ground and prepare square timber for buildings and palisades for an enclosure. Tents were used by Mr. Mackenzie and party until the buildings were completed, which they were not until the 23rd of December. The cold by that time was intense. Food and firewood, however, were in abundance, so time wore the winter away not unpleasantly. No sooner was the river clear of ice in the spring, than Mr. Mackenzie records he "closed the year's business by writing up his accounts, and despatching six fur-laden canoes to Fort Chipeweyan."

ALEXANDER MACKAY, OF REAY.-All things being in readiness, on the 9th of May, 1793, Mackenzie and his party embarked in one canoe, which is described as being "twenty-five feet long, with four and three-quarters feet beam and twenty-six inches hold." This small vessel was all that was provided to carry the whole party, numbering ten persons, "with all their equipage, arms, ammunition, provisions, goods for presents, and baggage, in weight not less than three thousand pounds, yet was so slight that two men could easily carry her three or four miles without stopping to rest." The principal man of the expedition, next to the leader, was Alexander Mackay, a native of Reay, Sutherlandshire, Scotland. This young man was an expert boatman and hunter, and shared the responsibility throughout with Mackenzie. He divided keeping night watches with his leader, when amongst natives who could not safely be relied on.

DIFFICULT NAVIGATION.-During the first nine or ten days, navigation, although against a strong current, was comparatively easy. On the north-western bank of the stream vast herds of elk were feeding and great numbers of buffalo, with their young frisking around them. Mackenzie, describing the country, says: "This magnificent theatre of nature had all the decorations which the trees and animals of the country can afford, and displayed an exuberant verdure. Trees which bear blossom were advancing fast to that delightful appearance, and the velvet rind of their branches reflecting the oblique rays of a rising or setting sun, added a splendid gaiety to the scene." As the current increased it was necessary to use propelling poles more than paddles. Rapids and cascades now became frequent, and sharp rocks threatened destruction to the canoe. On both sides of the river the banks were more steep. A band of Rocky Mountain Indian hunters were met at this point. They seemed distressed at parting with their two friends, who went as interpreters along with the expedition. Mackenzie assured them that in three moons they would return to them. As the party proceeded, the route became more difficult. Their boat in some places had to be pulled up by the men laying hold of the overhanging branches, in other places by pulling on ropes fastened to trees; sometimes trees had to be cut down to afford a footing along the bank of the river.

HEAD WATERS OF PEACE RIVER.-Not far from the head waters of Peace River, the expedition encountered a band of Rocky Mountain Indians who fled at the approach of the white men. They

returned, however, when assured by the interpreters that the party were friendly. With great persuasion and not a few presents, one of the natives consented to accompany the party as guide, as he appeared to have some knowledge of the rivers and country beyond the height of land which they were now approaching. Proceeding slowly and toilsomely, they came to a lake two miles in length, at the upper end of which they landed and unloaded. This was the 12th of June, 1793. Mackenzie, in his journal, says: "This I consider as the highest and southernmost source of the Unjigah or Peace River, latitude 54° 24′ north, longitude 121° west of Greenwich, which, after a winding course through a vast extent of country, receiving many large rivers in its progress and passing through Slave Lake, empties itself into the Frozen Ocean in 70° north latitude and about 135 west longitude." This point might with propriety be called the source of the Mackenzie River, as he had explored both rivers from their sources to outlets.

LAKES AND PORTAGES.--A portage over a low ridge of land, along a beaten path for eight hundred and seventeen paces, had now to be made. Another small lake was then reached, on which they embarked. Thence they entered Bad River, from which, on account of its shallowness and rocky bottom, they were obliged to land, unload and encamp. They now had begun to navigate down stream, which is far more dangerous in canoe navigation than ascending unknown streams on which are frequent rapids and cascades. A road had to be cut to portage around the rapid. On launching again, the swift current caught the canoe and drove it broadside upon a bar. All hands jumped into the icy cold stream, which so lightened the canoe as to enable it to clear the bar. The men, clinging to the craft, jumped in as they best could. Before they were fairly seated they were driven against a rock, which shattered the stern and threw the boat to the opposite shore, breaking the bow in pieces. The foreman caught some overhanging branches, but was jerked out of the boat in an instant and swung on shore. In another moment they were in the midst of a cascade, the rocks breaking through the bottom of the canoe, which now filled with water.

NARROW ESCAPE.-Fortunately an eddy caught the boat, bringing it into shallow water. There it struck a rock, on which it remained until unloaded of such effects as were not swept away by the water. The powder in the boat fortunately escaped damage. Mackenzie