children even of peasants are often met with, tending pigs, or following cattle, whose little fingers are loaded with rings either of gold or silver; whilst in every other respect their dress would bespeak their habits to be of the most primitive description. The absentee system contributes very much to increase the wretchedness of this class of persons in Portugal. The fidalgos and other landholders reside principally in the towns, and leave the management of their estates to farmers of the rents, whose grinding oppression cruelly diminishes the few comforts within the reach of the poor peasantry; while every feeling of mutual goodwill and reciprocal interest, which should unite the lord and the cultivator of the soil under one common bond, is totally destroyed, and with these, as a natural consequence, every idea of patriotism. The institution of the Misericorde at Porto, for administering to the wants of the aged, poor, and sick, has for some time, we are informed, been managed by a committee of fidalgos, who have shown that they think charity begins at home, by plundering the funds to provide for their extravagant expenditure,—no great inducement this for persons henceforward to bequeath money to an establishment so conducted. Here, as at Lisbon, we have seen cases of hydrocele and hernia disgustingly exhibited in the open street, with the view of exciting the commiseration of pas sengers. The labourers in the quarries on the banks of the Douro near Porto, whom we have observed on our excursions up the river converting stone for the line of new quay, now forming along the Porto side of the river, get about three hundred reis for their day's work, which commences shortly after four in the morning, and is continued, with three hours rest, during the extreme heat of the day, beyond sunset. Immediately below the public school, and a little way up the right bank of the river, an immense portion of the overhanging rock suddenly fell some short time since, and destroyed a number of persons who had assembled at a pretty fountain near a quinta, whither the fine view obtained thence down the river had attracted them. One of the finest streets in Porto is the Rua Nativida. It forms the continuation of the Calçada dos Cruços, where the market people principally assemble. At the top is situated the beautiful church of the Clericos. From the part where these two streets divide, the Rua das Hortas begins, and terminates in the Rua Nova Almada. Close to the Rua d'entre Vendas, where small wines are sold, is a sort of covered passage, or little bazaar for inferior shops, where the country people are accustomed to make their purchases. In the Rua Largo da Feira, bread, dried fish, fruits and vegetables of all sorts, are sold, as well as groceries and other necessaries. The Rua das Flores, however, is the principal street at Porto, and in which the best shops in every line of business are situated, and where any article almost of English manufacture may be procured. At an "Armazem de Papel de todas qualidades," we observed a shield of the Norwich Union fire office placed over the door. In the Rua des Domingos are the bank or Caixa Filial do Banco de Lisboa, the grand front of the Dominican convent, and principal entrance into their church. At the end of the Rua das Flores, and overlooking the Largo da Feira, is the large Benedictine nunnery, in whose beautiful chapel the sublimest music is frequently heard. There is a fine fountain of excellent water in the Rua de bello Monte, which is to the left up a steep street, forming the continuation in a northern direction of the Rua des Domingos, and another beautiful fountain in the Praça de Santa Theresa. From the summit of the elegant tower of the Clerigos, a most commanding view may be obtained over the town and neighbouring wooded heights, the windings of the Douro, a large extent of coast, and the Atlantic ocean. The view from the northerly terrace of the Serra convent above the left bank of the Douro, comprises the public and private buildings of the city, and the remains of the old town wall. The corridors of the convent are extremely long, as may be supposed from the almost interminable line of building which looks towards Porto. From the eastern terrace, at the end of the corridor, a little chapel is distinguished at about six miles distance, perched nearly on the loftiest summit of the Serra, in which are the coal-mines of Vallonga. The monks are of the order of Augustines, and possess very extensive demesnes, which are laid out into fields, pleasure gardens, orchards, orange and lemon groves, with the addition of fountains and an aqueduct. The rigour of their discipline never permits them to quit the paradise in which they are confined; but they have their rabbit-warren, and preserves for game, which, with their religious occupations and employment in the surrounding grounds, serve to beguile the time. We took a walk one evening in the gardens with the prior, a venerable old man, who was distinguished from his brethren by wearing a ring, set with a large amethyst, on the middle finger of his right hand, and a large silver cross worn round the neck. Passing under the Ramada, or walk of vines, which arch overhead on trellis-work, supported by rude granite columns about nine feet high, we came to a piece of ground, the extent of twenty acres, situated to the north-east of the convent, and this year bearing a crop of Indian corn, which is estimated, according to the prior's statement, to contain about twentyseven loads of produce, each load being reckoned forty alcaldes of corn, and the alcalde to be worth a crusado novo, or ninety shillings the load in our money. Thence we ascended to the summit of the aqueduct, which runs down to the convent, and passes over a mill that is worked by the superfluous water; and enjoyed from that elevated position a still more superb view |
