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For JUNE, 1809.
EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION.
ON THE MOST APPROVED
of white satin, with laurel border and spray,
in pale-blue or pea green foil; a round white No. 1.-A WALKING Dress.
feather, frusted with silver, drooping towards A round high gown of fine French cambric, the right side. A gold elastic neck chain, made a walking length, and finished at the with Maltese cross of Coraelian and pearl. feet with lace and needle work; Vuion front, || Hoop earrings, armlets, and bracelets to corand plaited collar, ornamented with the same. respond. Slippers of pale-blue or pea green Elastic girdle with buckle or clasp of gold or kid, rucked below the elbow. White Opera cut steel. - A Turkish coat of clear, worked fan of crape, wrought in antique devices of muslin, leno, or patent net, trimmed entirely || silver. round with scalloped lace, with appliqued seans of the same ; and lined with apricot, pale salmon, or primise sarsvet; flowing GENERAL OBSERVATIONS open in front of the figure, in form of the Turkish robe, with'a deep lappelled cape. A Wardle hat of fine straw, with conical, or bee
FASH ONS FOR THE SEASON. hive crown, ornamented with some delicately
The sudden transition from cold to heat contrasted Mower. Chinese parasol of lilacsince our last communication, has necessarily sarsnet, with deep Easteru awning. Shoes introduced an entire revolution is female atand gloves of pea-green kid. We take occasion tire. Even the sarsnet pelisse and sbawl robe to remark that the trimming up of the hat is considered as of too substantial a texture should be more convex, and a little deeper in for the extreme heat wbich at present pervades front, and that it should be worn more to one
our atmosphere; but as there are still to be side, and forward in front. The parasol strikes
seeu some few of these articles amidst the us as being more correct wheu chosen of the lighter diversity, we shall proceed in our acsame colour as the lining of the Coat or the customed course, and begin with a description shoes,
of those out-door habiliments which rank
highest in the scale of fasbion and elegance. No. 2.-EVENING, OR Full Dress.
Pelisses and coats (wbether of sarsnet or A white under dress of gossamer satin, em muslin) exhibit little norelty in their con. broidered at the feet and ronnd the bottom of straction ; they are much less fanciful thau in the sleeves, with a laurel border of pale-blue former seasons, being formed chiefly in plain or pea-green fuil. A Gallician robe, with demi- French coats, or wrapt towards one side, and train of pale-blue or pea-green crape, vellum Auwing in a demi-robe on the other. The guase or Jeno; the edges finished with broad sleeves are made very full, and somtimrs-with double foldings and cord. "A full Circassian an antique cuff; the collar high in honeycoinb sleeve, looped up with Cornelian brooches and or puckers, and rounded to a point at the front cord; loose triangular bosom, ornamented at of the throat, where it is confined with a large the central point with correspondent tassel. brooch or rich cord and tassel. Tbe skirt is A short pointed drapery dowing from the right trimmed entirely round, and being only fast. shoulder towards the knee, rouuded on the left,ened at the throat or waist, fows open at the and festooned near the bottom with bows or infuence of the passing breeze. We bave ub. rosetts the colour of the robe. A small French served a few curricle coats, but to these we can tippet, or half-handkerchief of lace, throwa | give no place in a tasteful selection.
Short negligently across the back and falling over Spanish cloaks, French tippets, Austriau scarling the left shoulder. The Austrian helmet hat with new variegated Spanish binding, also the
No. XLV.-Vol. VI.
cloak Alcantara, of figured vet or coloured muslin, or leno, when formed in colours, it is sarsnet, with wrought border, are observed' particularly adapted. We will endeavour to amidst the endless variety. Round gowlis of describe, for the benefit of our fair readers, two coloured sarsnet, chiefly pea-green, grey, and dresses in this style, which were '
worn by fcdore-colour, with small Jockey Bonnets of the males of unquestionable rank and elegance on same, with lace shirts and scarfs, or French a late splendid occasion. These robes were cloaks, are distinguishable amidst the gay di round, with demi-trains, and formed of white versity of Kensingtou-gardens and the fashion- Venetian net, woro over white sarsnet; the able drives.
short sleeve of the loose Turkish construction, Narrow net scarfs, or cymar of black, white, embroidered at the edge in a varrow and delior purple net, elegantly embroidered in gold cate border of silver violets, corresponding or silver, are an elegant appendage to the full with the broader one which decorates the robe dress, as well as an appropriate and becoming at the feet. To one dress was attached a long shade to the shoulders. The Spanish hat is sleete of celestial blue satin, with silver emnow entirely exploded by our fashionables, an broidered cuffs; a stomacher of the same, attempt to introduce it as a summer walking richly spangled and bordered; shives of blue hat has not succeeded. The Cottage and satin, with silver embroidered toes. The other Mountain bonnet of matted straw, is consider-dress only varied in haring long sleeves of ed most genteel for the fair and modest pedes. primrose satin, with cuffs of silver embroidery trian. The following are also considered as as above; and instead of the stomacher it had bigbly fashionable articles in the live :-ther hodice of the same material, cut low round small round hat of tine straw, with round the bosom, and sitting close to the form, edged crown and high crescent or tiara front of moss and laced in front with silver cord; a girdle straw; small coloured silk bonnets with square and buckle to correspond; a tucker of fine ends ; small Gipsy hats of chip, with yeoman scalloped lace placed above the edge of the erowo and wreaths, and bunches of ivy or bar bodice in front, discreetly shaded the bosom, berry blossom ; coloured silk caps, with ap which would with this dress be otherwise inpliqued lace in various fanciful directions, with decorously exposed; the shoes were formed of three tiers of plaited ribband.in front in form primrose kid, with silver rosetts and bindings. of a tiara, a short lace vcil suspended from the Each of these fair fashionables wore tbeir bair verge; the quartered cap of lace, with a bunch in the Grecian style, with combs and coronets of spring or cora Aowers in front, or an edging of pearl ; which delicate article was also blendand ornament of beads, with a large square auded with the sapphire and topaz, which formed transparent veil negligently throwa over the their necklaces, earrings, and bracelets. No. whole bust, each of these articles comprise thing could exceed the cool and seasonable much appropriate elegance.
elegance of these very beautiful and attractive Dress gowns are frequently very fancifully habiliments. The coloured bodice is lately constructed; the white gown, which has of become a very favourite appendage to the late been so much exploded in full dress, is evening dress, or dinner party; and it is cernow regaining its place in that species of cos. tainly an uncommonly animated and welltume. If the walking dress be coloured, the chosen decoration; they are formed in various pelisse or mæntle should be formed of white shades, suited to the taste and inclination of muslin, leno, or net, of the ligbtest texture; the several wearers, but those already menAnd these latter articles in colours, with a tioned, and others of white, parple, or green simple white gowa, have a lively and animated satin, laced and edged with gold, have the most eflect. The morning dress is more frequently pleasing and attractive effect. The waist is and properly formed of fine white cambric or not worn of an ingraceful length by any but muslin, with lace or needle work introduced in those females who, to court distinction, rau various directions; the fronts in the Armeni hastily into every extreme. The truly elegant an, military, or spenser style; the gaged wag. woman avoids all distortion of taste, preserving goner's sleeve and collar ; the Bishop's ditto, (even in trifles) a judicious and sensible mewith antique lace cuffs, or wrist-band and ruffe diuin; or if she adopts a singularity, her good of lace, are in higb estimation, and with this sense will teach her to unite with each innovastyle of habiliment have a somewhat unique tiow, modesty, fashion, and the Graces. We and attractive effect. The stomacher front beg leave to remark, that in the cased hips, still maintains its statiou, hoth in the morning wasp-like waists, and trussed forms distinand full dress, and we do not recollect any or guishable in mávy of our extravagantly fa. namental construction that comprises more shionable fair, neither of these qualities cat becoming qualities; to the full dress of white exist. A short skirt (wbich a long waist
consequently produces) takes from the grace forty-six; yet she duce not seem at all inclined fulness of a tall and well-proportioned tigure, to quit the field of conquest, but still euters and it rols the short woman of that natural the lists, and exultingly triumphs over many and delicate proportion aud symmetry which a more youthful, though less experienced rival. oftea makes ample atonement for deficiency of There will be some glorious sparring ere loug, dignity and grace of stature. The hosom of for Mademoiselle has no rival in either beauty drts3 gowns are considerably higher of late; or art; and the Marchioness must intoxicate but the back and shoulders are still much ex her lovers into a perfect stupor ere she can posed. This part of the bust is, however, fre- bring them to prefer the highly matured charms of quently shaded by the cymar, or half handker- | forty-six to the bloom and beauty of nineteen, chief, of French net, embroidered richly in Upon just and natural principles, therefore, I coloured flowers, the ends falling on each side calculate a cordial reciprocity between these of the boson. We have seen a very elegant two worthies for the space of one week; a cold round robe of wbite satiu, ornamented with attentiou avd secret jealousy on the second; white beads and lace, appear to great advan a tauuting sort of neglect on the third; and a tage with a half handkerchief of this kind tam- complete break up on the fourth. Proverbs, boared in a beautiful border of the wild rose
you kuow Frederica, are said to be the wisdom and violet, with a cluster of the same flowers of natious, aud it has been a long received worn on the hair in form of a tiara, We know maxim that “two of a trade can seldom agree." not a more becoming shade for the back and The vacancy in our family circle which Maslomlders than these simple articles afford. In demoiselle's departure had occasioned is not trinkets there is no manifest novelty since our supplied by a female of a totally different chalast communicatiou; necklaces of pearl, linked racter ;--a perfectly sentimentalizing novel in the form of small harps or pine leaves, with read girl from Glamorganshire, where her fabrooches and bracelets to correspond, are a ther possesses a considerable estate, and lives very elegant and chaste article; coronets and in good style as a country gentleman. He was tiaras, with combs of diamonds, pearl, gold, a brother collegian of our host, and from that silver, or coloured gems, are now universally | period to the present time a regular intimacy worn; fowers in the bair are uot considered has subsisted between the families. Juliana 40 genteel in full dress. Coloured pateat || (our fair guest) is an only daughter, and this is pearl of the most delicate shades are a favourite her first visit to the gay city. The novelty of ornanen: for less splendid occasions; celestial the scenes with wbich she is now surrounded blue, green, avd blossom colour have the best
seem more to affect her by contrast thau from effect. Coloured shoes, figured and plain, the pleasure they afford her. She moralizes with biodiags and bows of contrasted shades, on the irrationality of our town amusements, are more general than we remember them for and tells me (who am a prodigious favourite) some time. Parasols are also formed of vari- that it can only be from habit that such turous bues, with happily contrasted awnings ; bulent parsuits are preferred to the peaceful the Chinese parasol is considered most elegaut. and heart-felt enjoyments which a select society The prevailing colours are yellow, greci:, prim- | afford; she seenis to possess the very soul of rose, grey, and shot or shaded piuk. Shot sensibility, which so far from regulating or resilks for pelisses and mantles reigu despotic | straining she suffers to run into a wild exuber. over the plain, or figured sarsnet.
ance of undistinguished feeling, and she is more guided by their influence than by the
suber dictates of reason. She is perfectly inLETTER ON DRESS,
different to general admiration, but has a high
romantic sense of individual love; she revolts EXPLANATORY AND DESCRIPTIVE.
at the free and forward wanners of the flighty REJOICE with us, dear Frederica ! Made- | fashionable woman; and appears to feel a sort enoiselle Rusée is gone! She took her departure of contemptuous pity for the trifling, pursuits, about ten days since for a visit to the gay frivolous amusements, and freedom of address Marchioness of H-; where she is to pass adopted by the present town gentleman. Her the remaining fashionable period in town, and person is in a great degree the index of her is then to accompany the family to Brighton ; | mind; with a pale and interesting countenance that is, if they remain so long ou good terms, is united a figure of sylph-like symmetry, and whicli I very much question. This gay Mar. over her whole person their reigns an air of clioness has been enduwed with a vast assem romance perfectly characteristic of her senti. blage of personal charms, wbich she has made ments and in unison with her feelings. In her ase of to some purpose, from seveuteen to dress tou, you discover a siinple elegant taste;
er delicate bosom is covered but not conceal. the role in the centre of the busom aud fastens ed. It is impossible to produce a more strik. the bracelets at the waist. They will wear ing contrast than this romantic yet interesting slippers of white satin, with cut steel clasps. girl to the young ladies of our household; the My dress is a Greciau robe of Paris net, the easy guiety, ibe fashionable nonchalance, and colour a Saragossa brown, interwoven with assured air of these sisters arrest the min.l, as gold, and which I sball wear over an under opposed to the apparent delicacy, and retiring | dress of white sarsnet. The draperies are Fet graceful simplicity of their new companion pointed in two irregular lengths towards the Our young ladies, however, appear perfectly left side, trimmed with gold fringe, and satisfied, and seem to have too high an opinion foislied with gold tassels. A pointed cestus of ibeir own powerful and fashionable attrac- of gold scaling oruanseuts the bottom of the tions, to be in the least apprehensive of a rival | waist. It has a short sleeve of the loose in this simple girl of the mountains : though, Turkish forin, which falls over a long sleeve in my bumble opinion, she is more formidable of white satin, finished with cuffs correspondin this way than their quondam friend Made ing with the cest us. I skall wear my hair poiselle Rusée. T'he ove may excite general || a-la-Madona, with a few falling ringlets on admiration, and a transient passion, but the one side, and a demi wreath of pearl jessaother is calculates to inspire interest and mine on the other. My necklace and bracelets awaken affection.
of the same, with diamond or ruby snaps. My J.ondon is at this time a complete hive of shoes white satin, with gold rosettes and fashion, we are consequently surrounded with | binding, and a bouquet of geranium and wbite engagements. Juliana frequently attempts to beuth in the centre of my busom. excuse herself from the evening and dinner Juliana has chosen a dancing dress of white party, but the two sisters soon contrive to Peruvian net, bordered with parrow Wreaths bunter her out of her sobriety; yesterday we of white roses, and placed uver a slip of pale all went to the Exhibition, and in the eveuing pink satin, wbich is trimmed at the feet with a to the Argyle Rooms.
scolloped lace, put on nearly plain. A com. To morrow our cavalcade moves to the an plete frock front, and short sleeves, biassed nual ball of the Honourable Mrs. I'; and with fine lace beading, and edged with white our dresses for this splendid occasion comprise roses. Her hair is to be confined towards one at once all that is fashionable, as well as allside in fall curls, with a shell comb of pearl, and that is elegant and unique : you shall have a waved acruss the temple on the other. She al description of them; for though I forward you lows neither vecklace or earring to obtrude on my customary list with this packet, yet I koow the delicate syminetry of her throat and neck; you would accuse me of forfeiting my treaty but her white and neatly rounded arm will be with you were 1 to conclude tbis epistle with ornamented with the broad oriental armlet of out some extra information on this head. || wrought gold. Her saodal slipper is of white First, theu, let me tell you that our young satin, crossed with pink and satin cord; and ladies have each ordered Gallician robes of pea she wears in ber bosom a balf-blown rose, green Italian crape, with demi trains, which i blended with a sprig of heart's-ease : and they intend wearing over white satio slips. | when thus adorned, Juliana appears a creaThe robe is ornamented at the bottom with a ture of irresistible attraction and interest. I barp border in silver lama : a long sleeve of send you the Minerva bonnet and cap d-la. the same with antique cufis of silver, buttoned | Diana, as per order; though I never yet beard to the size of the wrist; a plain waist, or of the chaste Goddess having adopted such bodice, sitting close to the form, of green and an oruament. That, however, is of vo mosilver tissue, in small work; a harp border of ment ; fashion, you know, soon reconciles us silver round the bosom. Their hair will be even to absolute iveopsistencies. disposed iv the Grecian style, with bandeaus There is nothing new in the literary world, of diamonds, and a large drop in the centre of save “ Specimens of the Poetry of Josepla the forebead. A most delicate and unique Blacket," which I inclose for your admiration chaju of silver is to ornament the neck, from and wonder. He is, you will find, a native of which will be suspended a Maltese cross of Parnassus, and a young man of great poetical brilliants; a rose brooch of the same confines genius and mucb promise. Adieu.
London : Printed by and for J. Belí, Southampton-street, Strand.
COURT AND FASHIONABLE
FOR JUNE, 1809.
1. An Elegant PORTRAIT of the Right Hon. LADY CHARLOTTE CAMPBELL. 2. Two WHOLE-LENGTH FIGURES in the FASHIONS of the SEASON, COLOURED. 3. An ORIGINAL SONG, set te Music for the Harp and Piano-forte ; composed exclu.
sively for this Work, by M. P. King. 4. Two elegant and new PATTERNS for NEEDLE-WORK.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF ILLUS- || BEAUTIES OF THE BRITISH POETS.
TRIOUS LADIES. Lady Charlotte Campbell.
BEAUTIES OF DRYPEX. Absalom and Achitophel (continued from our last Number).
135 ORIGINAL COMMUNICATIONS. Qr the possibility of growing young again 168 Lore and Madness
LA BELLE ASSEMBLEE. Present state of the South of France 172 || Explanation of the Prints of Fasbion.... 198 Hymenæa in search of a Husband
Ladies' Dresses on his Majesty's Birth-day ib. Secund-sight .... 183|Impromptu to Miss H
196 Character of the Spanish Ladies
186 || Supplementary Advertisements for the Art of Drawing
Londyn: Printed by and for J. BELL, Proprietor of the WEEKLY MESSENGER, Southampton-Street,
Strand, July 1, 1809.